wagoon

Any updates Jason?

If your not in a hurry hunt around and you way find something, but dont forget your going to need to pay a machinist to measure and check each block properly that you think is good enough. Or if your not under any class restriction would you look at aftermarket block, they will work out about the same cost after you have check a block or 2 then get machining done. But as Thom said depends on power your chasing really.

Look at an Air gap manifold greg. Works really well on a clevo if your not concerned about an after market manifold and I also think bonnet clearance may be an issue dependant on the car its going into. Air gap works like a dual and a single plain manifold

Wow I did not think the comp was going to be that high with that setup, I always thought the unmarked head had a much larger cc. There you go, I still have a lot to learn.

My pick would be the 84DA block for a couple of reasons, 1: it's balanced so can rev safely 2: 8cc dish means higher comp means more horsepower 3: Zero deck height is related to 2nd reason more comp and better squish 4: has standard oil pump. Use the unmarked head as that should keep the comp down to pump fuel friendly and has slight porting(which you can improve upon with a die grinder and some direction from one of the very knowledgeable folk on here or if all else fails I can help ). Some one with more knowledge will recommend a Cam as they are pretty close but it comes down to head flow and intended use of the car. Lastly what inlet manifold do you have.

Well done mate, shows that patience and knowledge can get you to the front. I love how you say it's still safe tune, you guys are going to kill it. Good luck with your operation and hope everything turns out good for you.

When adding pics there are only so many you are allowed in one post, so if you have more just make another post

NICE

I have never seen them before but if they are genuine Enki and 3 piece they will be imports from Japan. Most import nissans have the same pcd as falcons but offset is different. But the "old school" wheels will have the offset we need.

Dude can't imagine how you are feeling after what has been layed out in front of you, I am gutted for you. But unfortunately the people that have responded above know what they are talking about. I would and have put my trust in their judgement and opinions and so far it had not led me astray. They have the runs on the board so to speak about this sort of thing. Hopefully you have a good relationship with your engine builders and they will help rectify what has happened. As soon as possible you need to contact your engine builder and see what they have to say.

When I stored me car outside I went and bought 2 cheap queens side bed sheets, the soft material stuff. Then I went and brought a good thick tarp from supercheap i think. The tarp had tie down lugs in all coners and a couple down each side. All up it costs about the same as a good car cover but offers better protection due to the thick tarp. Wash the sheets with fabric softner to make then nice and fluffy. Through the sheets on the car so the cover all the flat surfaces then place the tarp on top. I ran rope under the car from one side to the other through the tie down lugs to secure the sides. I tied the ends off where I could and I also folded the corners of the tarp so they would flap or hold water. I did this in a queensland summer when we get storms and the tarp never moved and the sheets stayed dry. The tarp was on the car for about 8 months and every 6-8 weeks I would remove the tarp to let the car breath. And as an added bonus at the end you will have a tarp to use afterwards.

For pulling lifters out through the pushrod gallery I made this little tool. worked a bloody treat

Well done, this will be other people comments about you guys very shortly

Have done as Lord suggested and tested the wheel/shaft for play? What sort of turbo is it? Does it have internal or external wastegate? Squeeze your piping as it may have a split or crack. Also tighten all clamps as one maybe loose but looks ok. With checking your pushrods, roll them on a piece of glass. When checking the length it needs to be accurate as I had a worn rocker causing a racket and it was worn no more than 3 thou.

Thanks for rubbing it in that its not running yet Sly. Worst part will be the engine will be built and just be sitting in the shed waiting till I get the rest of the stuff I need.

I only ask so many queations cause it may trigger an answer from yourself or someone else. So here's some more question :-) Do you know the camshaft specs, specifically the total lift of the cam? When you say there's a clicking noise, does it have a rhythm to the sound? How fast is the sound? Is it a metallic sound like metal on metal? Mate hope the move is an easy one. Hope that everything goes well with the birth. Best of luck on all fronts

Some more questions for you Is the valve train standard? like standard valve spring, standard valves and standard rockers? Does the engine have a "decompression head gasket"(extra thick head gasket)? Does the engine have 2 head gaskets to acheive the desired compression ratio? How often did your drive it hard and what rpm's would the engine see? When it was rebuilt was standard parts used like lifters, camshaft, pistons? Have you checked the timing? Have you rechecked the head bolt tension? Should always been done within a 1000kms of running a rebuilt engine.

Yeah Ando, I like the fact that my head now has as much flow at 400 and 550 as it at peak before without slowing down the air speed. I need torque for punch out of the corners and the way Cam has worked the head it will have loads of torque down low. I am not expecting high horsepower figures but I know it will have stupid amounts of torque, which for me is where the fun is.

I have just had my bargin cylinder head flowed after Cam at Engine Enginerring did his thing while I got a full engine rebuild at the same place. Keep in mind when I bought the head it had runner work already done and was for a 2 barrel speedway application. My setup is street/circuit racing 4 barrel soild roller cam with Inlet 256@50thou and exhaust 265@50thou. The head was flowed on the same bench by the same operator. Flow figures literally the day I bought the head IN EX 100 52.605 43.42 200 105.21 83.5 300 153.64 100.2 400 192.05 119.405 500 209.58 131.93 600 197.06 133.6 Flow figures after Cam did combustion chamber and valve seat work only. The valve seat has a 5 angle cut. IN EX 100 59.285 44.255 200 120.24 85.17 300 176.185 119.405 400 209.585 143.62 500 218.77 158.65 550 209.585 161.99 600 207.915 163.66

16psi is high for pump fuel unless the compression is quite low and/or fordged pistons are used. Are the piston's dished or flat top? I have known people to get better dyno results using BP98 so going to mobil may have made it ping and caused an issue.

What compression are you running? How much boost are you running? What fuel are you running? Is it possible the sound is pinging? Have you checked the head gasket?

Really shows the power of the new setup with running PB mph if it's heavier than the old setup

How did you go on saturday night Jason. I wasnt there I just passed you on the road near the raceway

I have always liked putting the stereo in the glove box if you want to keep the dash looking original. Its not hard to run power and speaker wires to the back of the glove box. Buy a stereo that has a remote so you dont have to lean over to change stuff. You may need to remove the back of glove box to make it work though

Very nice job