wagoon

Nah I havent rang ford yet as I only went looking for paint today. The guy at ford spare parts took details and I sent the same pics to him as above and he said he knows a guy at another dealer might help other wise he was going to contact ford for the sheet. I work with the guy I bought it off so 100% he is original owner. I know what you saying with ticking boxes cause the car also has a ghia bonnet emblem thingy that he had put on. Never thought there was ever a reason to contact ford over a simple xe s pack. Does the colour in the pics above look like french blue? Cause I really only care about the colour cause I want to match it.

Well thats very interesting. My car is a manual s pack that I bought off the original owner. It was a private car that he specced. Its an spack with no power options at all, not even steer. But does have a dick johnston turbo wing which was fitted just after delivery.

Thank you gentlemen

Be real careful with ebay as most of that stuff will be procomp, stay well away from procomp as it will break then you just have to buy a good ignition anyway

There 2 bolts that hold the bumper to the guard

2 bolts hold it to the bumper as well

Im guessing they are traveling quite fast

As Stumper has proved by his detailed thread.

I will add my solid roller cam engine was good for 350 hp and mid 11 second passes before I bought it. That was with standard rods and standard crank.

Agree with Pro on the ef crank. Changing to a ef crank is really only done for applications where you are running constant high RPMs (5500 and over) like speedway, burnout cars etc. The ef crank weights a LOT more than a crossflow. Rods are fine to reuse but check rod bolts. People change to ARP rod bolts if the engine is going to see rpms. The standard ones are fine but if the motor has seen some abuse just check the. Just to give you an idea on how good the standard parts are, that list of machining that I posted is for my solid roller cam crossflow that I am using standard rods with ARP bolts and standard crank in. The size cam you pick dictates the parts needed. And the ones you listed will run out of puff before 5000 rpm, so no need to go full race setup.

Mate Im 20 minutes south of Ipswich and happen to have an XH ute that Im stripping. You are more that welcome to come out and have a look over it and grab anything you need to fix yours.

If the car is known for moving in the A pillar and you fix that area and add extra stiffening then all you will do if move the weak point somewhere else that may actually make things worse. If you weld up that area, generally speaking mig wire is stronger than mild steel when using an argosheild type gas. So if you weld it up it will be stronger anyway but not stiff enough to transfer the load point else where. It may well happen again as the steel will work harden and become brittle and break due to the movement in that area

Great to hear your up and about and able to get back into it. I will put my name down for a tickled webber when you have nothing to do hahahaha

Stumper no offence taken at all, I myself was just clearing up what the above list doesnt detail. Sorry if it came across as defensive. You are 100% correct in that you look at a list like I posted and it doesnt show everything that wasnt needed, and yes I was very lucky to get an engine that really didnt that much done to it. I personally think its a credit to the previous owner that he ran it for so many years and it was in such good condition. In regards to the porting, I agree with Ando but for slightly different reasons. When I bought the cylinder head it already had quite a bit work done to it. So the work that was done was really only customising the head to my camshaft. So my flow figures actually show more the skill of the person doing the porting in tailoring the head rather that peak flow fugures.

My head had standard size valves when I took it in and came out with 1.84 inlet and 1.56 exhaust, and the seat has a 5 angle cut on it now The bore was taken out to 40thou from 30 thou with associated machining. The rod bolts were already ARP and the crank only needed the big ends done to remove some light cracks after inspection. You are defiantly right in that prices do add up quickly, that's why I thought I would throw up the pic. The quote I mentioned in post 29 really was only for $1600ish. The one thing that is not show but which cost the most was the hand porting to the combustion chambers and runners.

Steel doesn't normally crack in a straight line. It's a bit hard to tell from the small pick but as glen said it make only be the sealer. If you clean it out with a wire wheel or wire brush you should be able to see it better. To identify a crack in steel you are going to need to take it all the way back to shiny metal which can be done with a bit of sand paper.

As expected I was wrong. But hey I only got one number wrong, it just happened to be the first number. So to clear thing up here ya go

I have a factory 3.3 4spd xe wagon and I cant understand why everyone says they have no power. Granted I wouldnt say it has heaps of power but mine is completely standard and it holds it own. There is a slight possiblity that my car has had a small camshaft upgrade as I bought it off a guy who bought it off a guy but the cam would be no bigger than a towing cam. And the fact that I have standard exhaust manifold and drinking straw size exhaust it would kill any benefit of the cam. A standard 4.1 wont set any speed records either but will have a little more poke than the 3.3 I would say if you just want to have a cheap runner then stick with the 3.3 and if you want put the 5 speed in as the auto would be killing the power and adding to fuel usage. The parts required has been covered above. Unless the diff is from a ute or wagon you cant use it in your xd as all E series sedans are coil spring and your xd is leaf spring like the utes and wagons. But if you want the lsd and gears go and buy a complete open centre e series diff for $50 from a ute or wagon and swap the lsd and gears over

Now Im really worried I fucked up. Ah well shit happens, will know when I get home

Well if the price is that good I probably have it wrong. I do have a receipt in email that I checked and for pretty much the same as listed above but without pistons and valve spring and its $1600ish. I know the pistons where just over $200 not sure on the valve springs.

Not meaning to be rude but I think you need to find a new machine shop. A couple of months ago I had my block rebored and honed, new pistons with better rings, every bearing new including cam bearings, valve reliefs machined in the piston, crank ground then linished, full reco and assembled head with new double valve spring with damper, resize of oversize valves, resize seats to take oversize valves, full gasket set, fully balanced engine from harmonic balancer to clutch pressure plate, lightened and machined flywheel for just under $2000. I supplied the oversize valves, flywheel, clutch pressure plate, and harmonic balancer otherwise all other parts were supplied by the machine shop and I paid retail prices for everything.

My initial thought for this build was to use Impco 425 with B2 converter as you can fit a holley base plate to the Impco and use it on any 4 barrel manifold, but wasn't sure if a 4 barrel manifold would suit for the reason mentioned above. The 425 is really easy to use. This next part is from research I did into running LPG on a cleveland so from all that I have learnt about crossflows it should still be relevant. Basically when picking a cam, pick a cam that has an operating range 500rpm higher than you want. The LPG lowers the working range due to the way it works differently to petrol. The ignition is crucial on LPG but you have that covered but don't forget to upgrade the coil as well.

Agree with Sly, Jason/TF 250 had a roller cammed crossy it is dual pattern cam and his cortina was good for 11.5. I would agree with all the above, but how is your supply of LPG. Just make sure your supply of LPG is stable in quality. The better the fuel quality the higher compression you can run. Not long ago I was planning a mild crossflow. Machining alone was going to be $2500 but that did include balancing. That was all new bearing, new cam and lifters, new balancer, crank grind/linish and head work. The bill will rise pretty quick if you need new pistons and a rebore, new valve spring, new valves/oversize valves which means seat size change. Funnily enough the machining work on my roller cammed crossy was only not that much more than the mild rebuild but I already had a few of the parts needed.

Yeah Stumps, Stumper has pretty much nailed the webber modding. Hack a little here and chop a little there and you will whittle away and get some good results. Sorry couldn't resist. Stumps check out this thread for all the details for modding a webber by Stumper http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/3579-budget-upgrades-for-the-diy/

Its always the little nagging issues that piss you off in the end. Good to see it will be up and running again soon.