wagoon

Have a think on how much you will have to pay for the next engine and will you pay more to get a proper runner? Then cost of machining, pistons and any parts that need replacing, plus any block will need testing to check wall thickness and core shift. $3400 plus balancing I would think would be a better deal if you know that the block is fine and all bottom end is done. Just a thought

Instead of buying another block which may be like this one, buy a pavtek bottom end and use the parts from this engine to make a long motor. Dont know if they balance their bottom ends though which you will need if you want to rev it

Yeah now that the bloke that designed them has nothing to do with them anymore they are much better

The closest was the rust repair on the trailer which was a ute body on a trailer frame, so guessing that is around the same thickness as car panel. I used the middle setting on the welder and welded 3mm thick angle to it and it welded great and didn't blow through. I have also welded a 1.2mm thick trailer floor into a trailer frame. Didn't blow through on either job and used the same setting both times. I really wouldn't recommend using a 15Amp plug on a 10Amp circuit, yes it can be done but it's not a good idea. You will find that the welder will not work as well either if you do adapt to a 10Amp plug. The cigweld 135 mig is 10Amp plug and is a pretty decent welder for it's size, and don't be put off by the fact that other welders look the same as it. The only thing the cig 135 wont do compared to the unimig 180 is weld 6-8mm steel easily, but in saying that I have seen the cig 135 weld 10mm plate laying down 75mm long welds and it did not cut out and it was welding these size welds every 3-4 minutes.

I completely agree with Sly on the auto, they are very much bullet proof these days and there really aren't that expansive when compared to buying good clutches at $400-$500. I even searched for a way to make an auto work for circuit racing, the only thing they won't do is down shift into a corner. So unless your circuit racing or drifting all the time (clutch kicks) a well sorted manualised auto will do just as much as a manual, as Sly said the car will be faster and the gearbox will be stronger. Then you only have to worry about diff centre,axles, engine mounts, tailshaft's etc

Nice pickup even though it's not a crossflow. A stroker kit will be cheaper in the long run if you have to go and source the rotating assembly for a 351 then get it checked, balanced, new pistons for rebore etc Don't buy cylinder heads from ebay as you will most likely get procomp. These guys do alloy heads http://www.airflowdynamics.com.au/ http://www.chiheads.com.au/product-category/heads/ford-cylinder-heads/3v/ Like anything it really comes down to how far you want to go with it as to whether the alloys are worth it. Yes the alloy heads will save a heap of weight but don't think that you can just buy the heads and they will be ready to go, they will need to at least be looked at to make sure they are all good. You know where to send you cast heads to get done properly already I can't recommend this camshaft highly enough, there are a couple of guys on here running it and you will get 450hp if everything supports the cam http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=32-246-4&Category_Code=F351HFTCXE Here are the specs http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=848&sb=2 But be prepared to sink 8-10 grand into the engine alone if you go alloy heads and all the other gear, and you will probably end up spending 10-12 grand.

I haven't used mine for gasless yet as I like to use gas. the gas I use is Argon 5/2 from Supagas. This gas is the same as BOC argosheild light which is great for thin steel up to 6mm thick, this gas has a small amount of oxygen in it which gives a much nicer weld and just argon/CO2 which most people use. Supagas is cheaper to hire from than the other major suppliers, cheaper to refill the bottle and you only have to pay for the time you have the bottle so if you have it 6 weeks you only pay 6 weeks. The wire I use is cigweld 0.8mm wire http://www.cigweld.com.au/product/solid-mig-gmaw/autocraft-lw1-6/ Regarding what I weld, I've made the exhaust on my sedan and fixed the exhaust on my wagon, rust repaired a trailer, repaired a cracked ride on mower deck, made my engine mounts for my sedan plus more. I will be using my welder to weld 6mm thick stainless so that will be it's first big test as I will be finishing off my stainless steel car trailer

You should be able to find a better price for the unimig as well http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W240

That Unimig is the one I have and i find it a pretty good welder, problem is it requires 15Amp plug. And that is going to be your biggest problem is requiring a 10Amp machine. I have a mate that bought the cigweld 130 and he was welding 10mm plate to galvanised steel using gasless and it did it fine, mind you he is a boily and know how to weld a bit. For what you want the 130 cigweld will be fine but if you can get the 150 cigweld for around the same price go that way as bigger is always better. Just make sure you confirm any welder your looking at is 10Amp plug. In regards to these little welders it's not so much the duty cycle that matters it's the setting the machine works well with, the less setting you have to choose from on a machine the less chance you will have to make a good weld. I have found this on my Unimig as I just can't seem to find a good setup on a couple of the setting, but since the machine has 6 settings I can usually get one close enough to what I need.

I dont think its a good idea to leave the car with drastically different tyre size either. All I was saying was change tyre size to find out what diff gears suit instead of changing diff gears. Thats why I tried to explain about me using 14 and 15 inch tyres to find the correct final drive ratio. Once you find whats suits then change diff gears. The reason why I wont change the 2.92 gears in the diff for racing is because 17 inch tyres in common sizes range from 23 1/2 inches to 26 1/2 inches in diameter which means I can run many different ratios all with the same diff without changing gears. This isnt ideal but since I dont have money for a quick change 9 inch this is the next best option, according to me anyway

My person choice is my personal choice and I don't expect anyone to change what they are doing just cause of what I said, just mentioning a different point of view. I actually agree on running shorter gears as it's free horsepower and that's why I have 2 different diffs in the shed. My wagon with a 4 speed and 2.92 gears happily runs at 100km'h in 3rd so it could definitely run shorter gears which would help with bogging. I don't think short gears are a bad idea but by changing tyre size around instead of diff gears you can find out what the car is happy with and it can be changed for $50 and in 5 mins, that's all

I have 2 diffs at home waiting for when I put my new motor into my sedan(crossflow with single rail) the ratios are 3.08 and 3.23. The car has 2.77 in it now and I will be using 14 and 15 inch tyres to find what suits the engine then put one of the diffs in. I have a diff lined up with a spool in it for racing that has 2.92 gears and I wont be changing them, again just going to adjust with tyres size. Changing 1 inch in tyre diameter is pretty close to moving 1 ratio up or down in diff gears, so if you have 2.92 and go down 1 inch in tyre diameter it would be similar to 3.08. Its not exact but it gives a pretty good idea on what the engine would be like with that gearing.

Globes are a great look and with some patience you will find a set, they do seem to come in waves on the above mentioned sites. You may need to get them posted though if they arent all that popular in your area. When searching also look for valiant and jeep wheels from the 90's cherokee. Also some jap old school mags will fit if you can get the correct offset, look for wheels to suit the original 86 corollas and most nissan imports.

The reason is because the crossflow produces so much torque it can easily move the car with taller gears.

You buying an xe Ando? Bhahaha Happy to make any brackets you might need since you so busy, just want to see this so bad now. It sounds really cool.

Really?? Last I knew that servo had 100 but didn't know they had E85. I did a search only a month or so ago for E85 and nothing came up. I am surprised a little TBH with all the tracks at the motorsport precinct that there isn't more E85 in the area.

I don't have the privilege of E85 anywhere near me either. Was more just wondering as I know standard they are around 7psi and with a simple pulley change it's 10psi odd, which is still not a great deal. The idea behind intake temps was if the car is used as a tow vehicle it would essentially be under load constantly when towing and in queensland and more so north queensland a bit of extra cooling would go a long way. Guess I'm just thinking a head as I know my wagon will fall to pieces in under 5 years (christ I hope it makes it that long at the rate it's going) and am looking at something that can easily tow, but since I have 5 crossflows in various conditions it makes sense to continue down that path if possible. Plus I would love to be rocking a blown crossflow towing a roller cammed crossflow racecar, yes I know it's a sickness and a have come down bad with it See what you bastards have got me into

Really keen to see what is in the kit and how it all goes. Just thinking out loud but would E85 help keep intake temps down?

Was wondering more along the lines of big bore pacemaker primaries or custom made primary size to suit fast exhaust gas removal to suit blower, hence the lobster back offer.

Falcon after EB series 2 got 4 pinion centre with solid disc brake and 28 spline like the turbo VL. Before that all diffs are 2 pinion centre 25 spline axle and have either drum brake or vented disc rotors. AU diff is wider as they changed wheel offset, just dont know about widths before AU. But as Jiminy said he's using one so cant go past someone who has done it. Plenty of gearsets are available like smoke said as there were quite a few cars that came out with borg warner. But diffs themselves are no use as all wrong.

I would have thought the m90 to small for a performance application but for towing it should be pretty good. Should given plenty of low down go and by the time the blower is running out of puff the cam would be near finished anyway. Look forward to seeing what it comes out like. What exhaust manifold you thinking Ando? You want me to make up a few lobster back templates

Really?????

Making it into a useless parts getter but changing it into a ball of fun

No not at all once you throw up a pic then will know what you have and go from there. As before 9 inch as lots and lots of options and is about the same cost to rebuild as a borg warner in the end if your building it stronger. The borg warner is plentiful to buy so is much cheaper and depending on the use you can go a couple of different ways, it really does come down to where and how your going to use the car. For example the borg warner has these options: Spool- whether mini or full is illegal on the road and can be quite dangerous if you are not careful and like to drive with the throttle through the firewall all the time. Spools put more load on axles when turning compared top other centres so if it's a street car care must be taken and in the end it make just break cause they don't like carparks and slow speed turns. Factory lsd- as mentioned before if you like spinning the wheel everywhere and sliding sideways the standard lsd will wear out pretty quick. I have know people to get less than 2 weeks out of a rebuilt standard lsd, others can get 4 years and counting out of the exact same thing. It really is up to how you drive Mechanical locker- for a borg warner Lokka is the brand and you can search google, youtube etc on those. Again limitations need to be realised and you have to be willing to put up with possibly a bit of noise from the rear end. The device can change the characteristics of how the car handles but again it really comes down to what and how your going to use the car plate clutch LSD- for the borg warner this is a KAAZ lsd which will last a lot longer than the factory lsd but will still require servicing and looking after. They can be setup to your requirement but regardless of the cost and what is said these lsd's do wear out. Once again how long it lasts comes down to how you use it. There is a pretty common theme running through all the above choices, and it is really no different to any other area of the car you looking to improve. It all comes down to your expectation and use of the car, and only you know exactly what your wanting.

So Im going to need to buy a battery for when I get my sedan regod so thought I might as well buy it to suit my roller if it needs it. Just a refresher cause its been a while the engine has only around 10.5 CR and it will have a new style starter. The battery will be staying in the engine bay so it wont have to start the car from the boot. So will it need more CCA than standard?