wagoon

BIG balls

I think I will pass on doing anymore tests, I have ruined a t-shirt and a pair of shorts and wasted half my rags cleaning up the bloody mess. Yeah that wasted energy thing really surprised me and it's probably the thing that would turn me off the high volume pump just as much as the over capacity pumping. For me to struggle to control the pump while it's running tells me that it requires A LOT of energy to run it.

Nice buy. Yeah the unimig is a great portable welder, I have chucked it in the back of my wagon quite a few time and gone to peoples places to do some welding.

Yeah I know that there isn't much information there and that it has little bearing on how it actually runs inside the engine. If I was really really interested in finding out exactly the difference I would build a frame where I could remote drive the pump with an electric motor and measure pressure at the pump and rpm of the motor. Plumbers tape rapped around air fittings held in by cable ties is not what I would call a good setup. But the idea behind it was to see how long it would take to empty a sump which is more reflated to flow than pressure I would have thought. I like to find stuff out for myself when I have the chance, and although this really isn't a good test the thing that shocked me the most and what I can't really put into words was the extra effort and torque that went into turning the high volume pump compared to the ford pump. I struggled to control the pump and the drills struggled to turn the pump, and I know when it's bolted into an engine it's different but to me the high volume pump would adding strain into an engine. I don't know enough of the technical side of everything that effects the running of the pump. But I would have thought that if someone would go to lengths to reduce strain on the engine by removing things being driven by the engine then adding in the high volume pump which to me clearly requires a lot more effort to turn would be doing the opposite of what they are trying to achieve. I will say that the air fitting with the garden hose attached did place a decent restriction on the pump and would have increased pump pressure as the hose blow off the air fitting the first time I spun the high volume pump with the electric drill. With no hose on the fitting the drill picked up rpm enough that I noticed it while being sprayed by several litres of oil cause I was standing over the air fitting. But again I couldn't measure pressure so I can only go off what I felt which is pretty hard to explain on the internet. But even after all this focus on the high volume pump it needs to be remembered that I had zero trouble doing the factory pump which still pumped 5 litres in 15 seconds at around1800prm.

Ok so I made a pretty big mess and I didn't get a definitive answer on the pumps but did find out some interesting things. So here are the 2 pumps side by side. I used a standard pickup on them so it was as close a possible to what would be in the engine. The ford pump is a completely stock xf pump and as can be seen the high volume pump is JP brand. Again the JP pump would weight at least double what the Ford pump weighs. I used my milwaukee 18V cordless drill with 3.0Ah battery which I fully charged last night, the drill it is rated to 1800rpm. On the standard ford pump the drill had no drama driving the pump and filled the 5 litre oil container till it overflowed in 15 seconds. The oil just flowed out the top once it got there, and it was no drama for me to hold onto the pump in one hand and drill in the other. On the JP pump the drill laboured a lot, I could hear how much harder the drill was working and also that it was not spinning at the same rpm as with the Ford pump. So with the drill spinning slower and working much harder (this is the part where knowing the rpm of the drill driving the JP pump would make the results better) it took the JP pump a tad over 12 seconds to fill the 5 litre container to overfilling. But the oil actually spurted out the top with force instead of like with the ford pump where it just oozed out. It was a fair bit harder to hold the JP pump while the drill was driving compared to the ford pump, this would explain why this wear out when using high volume pumps. The pic below shows the setup i used, I transferred the oil from the white 20 litre container with the lid cut off through an airline fitting out of the top of the pumps through a regular garden hose into the standard 5 litre oil container. I had my watch on the ground so I could keep on eye on the time as I had to concentrate on holding the pickup in the oil. I had to tape the hose to the handle of the 5 litre container as even with the ford pump it would pull straight out of the copntainer as stary everywhere, luckily i have plenty of weeds that need killing. So because the battery drill had a fair bit of trouble turning the JP high volume pump I pulled out an 850W metabo electric hammer drill that's rated at 3000rpm. When using this electric drill I had a lot of trouble holding onto the drill and the JP pump due to the amount of torque twist. I could not fill the 5 litre container as everytime the oil got low in the white container because of the torque twist through the drill and pump I could not keep the pickup submerged and it would start sucking air. The best I could do was 4 1/2 litres in around 6 seconds but even this 850W hammer drill had a bit of trouble getting up to speed while driving the JP pump. So with these results I would hate to see how much the high volume pump would pump with the engine driving it and at high rpm. Lets say the battery drill was turning the pump at 1500rpm which I think is very generous on the drill's power and the electric drill was turning the pump at 3000rpm. Basically the time it took to pump 5 litres was cut in half when you doubled the rpm. So an engine at 6000rpm would pump 5 litres of oil through the pump in 3 seconds. But in the real world it would probably be more oil in less time as the engine would not labour due to driving the pump and the oil would be at a different viscosity when at operating temp.

How bout paying attention to what a freak from south queensland is going to do? So I have been cleaning out my shed while my sedan is out of it, found the JP high volume pump and a standard ford pump out of an xf that hasnt been modified. So I have rigged up an air hose fitting to each pump and will use a standard factory oil pickup to draw the oil up in. Will give it a try tomorrow and see how I go. 2 things I have notice so far when comparing the JP to the ford 1. The JP would weight at least twice what the standard pump weighs. The standard pump with the pickup attached is still way lighter than the JP on its own. 2. Turning the pump drive by hand it is much much easier to turn the standard pump than the JP. The standard one almost feels like its free spinning where as the JP feels take a lot of effort to spin with my fingers. Will have a play around with the setup of the rig and see what happens and go from there.

No need for mythbusters, I am well versed in their methods, its the most watched show in my house ☺ I might do it anyway as it might workout to be an easy way to transfer the oil from the large container the smaller ones. Plus I would be making use of the pump, wonder if I could tranfer other liquids with it? New portable drill operated transfer/bilge pump? hmmmmmm

How different is a crossflow high volume pump to a clevo? I have a crossflow high volume pump just sitting there so I could do the flow expirement if its relevant. I have around 15 litres of old oil so I can time how long it takes to fill a 5 litre oil container.

Here's what I made for my wagon, it wasn't finished in the pic but basically looks the same but with no wires showing. I did mean for the lights to tuck a bit more into the grill which I will fix up over the summer when I don't need them to drive to work which is the only "night" driving I do. Each light is $50 off ebay and is rated at 5400 lumens, that's bullshit but they are a pretty good light and shine a good distance down the road compared to most led light bars. They are an 8 degree spot beam so it fairly concentrated beam but when adjusted right they show the road and 20 metres either side of the road at 500-600 metres easily (will light up the road 800-900 metres ahead on a hill or incline). They aren't as good as a large top dollar spotlight like lightforce but are pretty damn good for $100. Best part is if one gets damaged you only have to replace 1 not a single large light bar (expensive) or buy 2 lights in a pair.

I laughed when Ando was building my engine and he threw the oil pump gasket out of the shed. I kept the unused high volume oil pump I have very well hidden so he didnt put a hole through the shed wall. That reminds me I must find that pump and get rid of it before he comes back

Isn't that mainly for crossflow stuff he goes on about To the OP as far as I'm aware no ford engine needs a high volume oil pump, or at least the ones we deal with. The standard pumps can be adjusted in the relief spring to provide all that is needed. Yes high volume pumps will pump all the oil to the top off the engine. Regarding the oil can't say I know anything about the Joe Gibbs oil but if your changing oils and the previous oil is a different kind or doesn't like other oils you could use a cheap oil to flush the engine out. For example when I buy a car with a suspect service history I always do a triple oil change. I drop the original oil and replace with a cheap oil and new filter, run the engine up to temp then drain that oil when it's cool enough and change oil filter. Then I put in the same cheap oil but this time I go for a 10-15 minute drive come home and drop oil and filter. Then it's in with the oil of choice and away I go checking the oil every week to see how it's going. I really only do the triple change when I need to, on most cars I skip the first run to temp oil change and go for a short drive first up and see what comes out.

So around what duration does the cam start to effect the booster? Or at least have a noticeable effect

Nice work mate

Anyone know where I can buy the rubber seal for the cap on a PBR brake master cylinder on an XE? And does anyone know if the master cylinder reservoir and therefore the rubber seal on the falcons is the same as WB and HQ-HZ holdens? Found this on evilbay but they don't list models but the size is about right, anyone used one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Reservoir-Cap-Seal-Lid-for-Holden-or-Ford/291537016343?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140117125611%26meid%3D36ba9a1ef1f74778a3a4e38fda352d36%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D271938803207

Yeah bossweld migs are alright. Know a couple of people with them and have no complaints. Specs are pretty much the same as the unimig and the only reason I went the unimig is cause it was slightly cheaper

Please never roll your own wire on to a spool. You are asking for feed problems as any slight misalignment on the spool will cause the wire feeder to stutter as they really arent that powerful. You need the easiest path for the wire to travel otherwise the wire will come out the tip in spits and farts and will cause lots of pain. The small reel of wire that came with my unimig tangled a bit, I could have tried to fix it but the pain it causes is just not worth it. That is one of the major reason to buy good wire because they are precision layer wound.

Supercheap have weldskill 135 mig welders for $299 until 6/9/15.

Superpro is still urethane but is not as hard as nolathane brand. Just depends on how you want to use the car. No point firming up the suspension for better cornering if its a cruise car which will be better with all rubber bushes to soften the bumps from shit roads

No worries

Yes please and the coilovers if you still have them/want to get rid of them!?!?! School holidays are in about 4 weeks yeah??

Nah you'll be right, nice smooth sailing all the way to the bottom. Only have to dodge the large rock piles and yetties. Speaking of yetties, I'm WILL have the sedan rego'd within a month so expect some question's regarding it

The trek down everest is always more dangerous than going up!!

Looks like it's a race between you and me to get to the race, Leyburn that is. You need time I need money sort of even's itself out, maybe, kind of, possibly, maybe

When I took my engine to the machine shop the quote was around 2 grand, half a dozen things needed doing or changing and when it was all done the bill was 3 grand which I had to pay all at once. Don't kid yourself again thinking you can find a really good virgin bore block for $250, a good 351 crack that doesn't need grinding or linishing and everything else is going to run easy. This is what building cars is all about, the heartache and disappointment of when stuff doesn't run smooth, but it just makes it all that much sweeter when your done. Here is my bill for machining my crossflow which is from early 2014 from engine engineering, this is no mates rates it's what everyone else pays. Keep in mind you have 8 cylinders so most of the prices are going to be more because you have more cylinders. If you stick with the 302 rods your going to need special pistons which cost dollars as well.

I took the following that was posted by Sly from crossflow build thread Nath started (http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4606-crossflow-build-advice/ page 3 is where this combo is), it is a very good combo that has worked, will give you the best idea on a great combo and what is needed: Jase Stoodley ran this combo for a while before moving on. Take note those who want realistic reliable pump fuel power all for sensible money. Block: 80da bored & honed .030 Crank: 250 ground & balanced Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp. Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors! Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these. Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer. Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference. Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2programmable running 36deg total timing. Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears. the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp