wagoon

If organised through people here Cam@ Engine Engineering is more than happy to give you a call and chat about what you are after. It's not a 3 hour chat about your life and what your retirement plans are, Cam knows his shit and knows what to ask you so he can give you what you need. If you worried about post I live within a hour of Engine Engineering and am more than happy to drop off stuff for ozfalcon members, I have stated this before and the offer still applies that's how much faith I have in Cam's abilities. I get nothing out of it other than I'm helping a fellow forum member, I know that your not getting ripped off and your getting the best job possible. I also have an E-go courier depot near my work which makes shipping very cheap, for example I sent a crossflow cylinder head from the depot near my work over to Perth for $20. That was depot to depot which is by far the cheapest option but there are other options available. Happy to help where I can and I know you will not be disappointed with Cam's work. Plus Engine Engineering has very competitive prices when it comes to all it's machine work so with the post through E-go you will probably come out even or in front if you compared the overall price(porting and reco head) with someone local to you that is of a comparable quality (although you will struggle to find someone as good as Cam for any money let alone a decent price)

For my engine Cam (guy Sly mentioned) concentrated on low lift figures and kept the speed right up, this kept the cost right down. If you look at my flow figures for my head (first page of my roller cam thread) the low lift figures are quite high but the flow slows after 550 of lift. Perfect for a street engine.

To the OP, check out the showroom thread under the members rides, heaps of pics in there. If you still need more inspiration, there is the same thread on xfalcon with heaps of pages just have to get through the dribble to get to the pics

+1 Stock will be fine, but a headjob makes you perform better

I've seen those wheels before Looks good mate

So I went to Masters hardware today and bought the clear fuel line that Ando suggested previously. If you want to know the details of the hose that is rated at 203 psi head over to my build thread here http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4428-solid-roller-cam-xe-spak/page-17

This is a 2 part question 1. Looking at replacing the hard fuel line with larger internal diameter stainless braid as it will run on the underside of the car. Thinking of getting PTFE E85 compatible line for later on just in case, but since it will be a couple of years before I will be possibly using E85 will the PTFE last? Does it go brittle, crack and what is the life span of PFTE braided line. 2. Because the above oversize fuel line is going into my sedan, when I remove my roller crossflow in a few years the sedan will be returned back to full street duties with only a mild crossflow. So will the oversize fuel line cause any drama’s with just a mild crossflow? I know this may be a strange question but I know flow is important and I don’t know whether having to large a fuel line and standard mechanical fuel pump will cause issues. And since the Queensland government is passing a law that will outlaw regular 91 fuel (must be ethanol or premium 95/98 only) I'm thinking I may as well run the mild crossflow on E85 as well.

Ok no drama. Still happy for a trip over for you to have a look before you start if need be.

Is that the same shop I dropped the parts into before? If so I can drop into the shop so the guys can have a look at my wagon before hand. Happy to come on the 7th as well sounds like fun.

If you get stuck I have the engine out of my sedan that you can come and take pics of or I can come over to your place and you can look/measure my wagon both are XE

Driveline loss through an auto is around 21-22% then if adding a 9 inch diff you can add a couple more % loss. So working off 25% driveline loss you will need to make close to 450kw/600hp at the fly to have 350rwkw.

Only asking cause I remember reading it somewhere on here but the AU sump has clearance issues on pre AU falcon's doesn't it? And there is a fitting issue with fitting pre AU sumps onto an AU block?

WOW the price was 10 bucks when I saw the auction!!! Drivers side sold for $105.50 and passenger side sold for $96.00. I need mirrors as mine on both my XE's are not very good but I can't afford that price, looks like the tape is staying on the mirrors for now

If it was just street I would definiatly buy the clear hose, but for the sake of $50 I would hate for some pencil head to knock the car back. Then I would be wasting entrance fee which is a lot more than $50. So for the second question, does it matter the internal size of the hose? Could I get 1/2 inch if I wanted without causing issue?

Is scritineering for burnout comps easier than racing? Just wondering if they might fail the car cause they don't know the clear tube is proper fuel hose? Not sure if places like leyburn are funny about things they don'y know

Ando will it put up with rocks and stuff hitting, guessing chucks of rubber would give it a decent beating. No really fussed on looks clearly by the state of my car, but I do like to get what I need to know it will be up to the job and last. Might drop into masters this week and have a look. Cheers

Looks like you have the Ando brace to go along with the Ryno mounts now

I'm learning as Im going mate so all good, and only reason I noticed size different was by companies listing actual size. But the one thing Im not sure on now is just about every product listed as 3/8 line has a smaller internal diameter than 3/8, so I dont know whether to buy what everyone calls 3/8 line or buy actual 3/8ID line? Does factory 5/16 line have an ID of 5/16? Guess if it doesnt it will be smaller so then the advertised 3/8 line will be a larger increase in size.

If you have a look at the actual advertised size it isn't as bigger as you think. -7AN from what I can see is a true 3/8 internal diameter with -6 being smaller and -8 being bigger. -6AN https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af100-06-1m -8AN https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af100-08-1m This is a conversion chart showing imperial fraction to decimal conversion as well as metric equivalenthttp://www.hamuniverse.com/antfrac.html So going off the Aeroflow website and using the above conversion chart the -6AN internal diameter is actually halfway between 5/16 and 3/8

Nice plate!! Although I can't help but think I have seen that cutout and shape of the top of the plate somewhere else before Looks like a really good fix as that first pic is very very ugly

So according to the Aeroflow website the 1/2 inch line is 7.9mm https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/hardline/aluminium-stainless-steel-hard-line/af66-3001blk which when converted from mm's to imperial fraction is 5/16 which I believe is what the standard internal diameter of the standard hard line. So therefore if I'm reading it correctly there is no size difference from the black Aeroflow to the standard size hard line. Ford_man I do have an aftermarket fuel pump which is rated at 140gph but there is no information as to which size line this is through. So regardless of what the pump is rated at surely the fuel line needs to support the flow rate of the pump for it to reach it's advertised rate of flow? So if the pump is listed as a 3/8 inch pump surely you should add 3/8 ID fuel line to accompany it?

Thats a bloody good point in having to do brake lines as well. Thats not a bad price on the E85 compliant hard line which I didnt even know they did. Will have a look at the price of the tool required to bend the hardline.

It ok Menice I dont mind other ideas. I thought that hardline was a problem with E85? I can get 20 feet of -8AN E85 compatible stainless braid for around $100 in a bit bigger than 3/8inch ID. Would have thought getting 3/8inch hardline bent to shape to suit car would cost more than that.

When my roller engine was put together we primed the oil pump with the same drill so yeah it does work even on an assembled engine. And the mechanical oil pressure gauge that was hooked up to the engine when the pump was primed by the drill read 80psi. The drill has 24 settings for the clutch when screwing nails or a straight drive with no clutch for drilling holes with a drill bit. I tried the standard for pump with the clutch and it would drive the pump on 20 but all the testing I did was on the drill setting as the clutch would cut straight in on the HV with the clutch on 24 and not drive it at all.

Mate nothing average with your engine setup. Granted it's not 900hp but that engine sounds like it would be fun and not be a pain in the arse that a more powerful setup brings. The comment I made about about the high volume pump weren't aimed at anyone, they are just my thoughts on the topic. Regarding the test no I didnt track oil through the house cause Im still alive. But I did have to change clothes and wash down in the yard before I was allowed into the house haha.