wagoon

Doing an exhaust on a hoist would be a million times easier than laying on the ground sliding under a car trying to figure out the next angle cut to make. I spent way to long making my exhaust ( almost 3 weeks every night after work for a couple of hours) but know I saved at least $2500 making it myself. Doubt I would got to the same extent again but the outcome is definitely worth the effort.

Nice adaptation of the monster tacho inside the dash. My preference is for the 3 3/8 inch tacho if one is needed, but if you have a working tacho this may well be a good option for a shift light, this is what I will/am running. It has a digital numerical tacho with multi stage shift light(programmable rpm range to 100rpm) and fits between the factory tacho and factory speedo hidden inside the dash cowl.

Mate congrats on the work. I couldnt agree with you more on how cheap it is to do this at home. Its by no means a fun job but its saves heaps of coin. Car sounds nice and deep in tone.

Hey stu do you have any issues with heating the fuel from the exhaust? From the last pic it looks like the fuel line is fairly close to the top of the passenger side exhaust?

When I was looking at clevo stuff a few years ago they were pretty decent quality, most of the issue seem to stem from people thinking cause it had a scat name they could flog the shit out of them. Then went stuff broke the would cry and whinge, cast doesnt cope so well at 8000rpm

I will add that if you want a really good setup put ARP rod bolts on standard rods and use the piston that best suits your head, camshaft and compression ratio

There is absolutely no denying the benefit of a 200 rod setup in a crossflow, BUT does it suit what you want to use the engine for. A 200 rod combo is useful when you are trying to extract the last 2% of power out of a crossflow AND revving the engine to 7500RPM all the time. So if the car is for drag racing where you are trying to win a championship or set the fastest time ever by a NA crossflow, your car is for burnout comps where the engine will be sitting above 7000rpm for 3 minutes at a time or your the new drift king where the limiter is used to show how strong your car is go the 200 rod setup. Unless you are doing these events or an event just like it you DON'T need 200 rod combo. The only other time you will need a 200 rod combo is if your building a car for street machine and so they can fill out the story they can say you have a 200 rod combo. Now to the links you provided. The cheaper set has flat top pistons, which will limit the cylinder head you can run if you want to use petrol instead of race fuel. You will find it hard to keep the CR down with flat tops and still get zero deck height ( zero deck height is better for performance) The more expensive set have custom compression ratio but at $2200 is stupid expensive unless you need forged pistons or desperate for 200 rod combo. As an example my solid roller cam crossflow has 10.5:1 CR, will have a rev limit around the 6200-6500rpm, will run on pump fuel and I'm hoping for at least 350fwhp. I am using standard hypetec pistons with hastings rings and it cost me less than $300. So if you win lotto, have money to burn, want the wank factor of forged setup or are trying to set records go for the 200 rod setup. Otherwise save yourself a stupid amount of money and use standard pistons, spend the rest on better parts and go just as fast.

Thanks guys.

Thanks for that Crazy. Sly the reason for my question is it had been mentioned by someone that I know that running the 00 size would cause problems. But I always look for a second opinion on things and lucky I did.

Anyone?

The bolts I bought were black, and when I trimmed the head off I put the cut bare end into the head so they looked like complete black bolts.

Not saying that you should do a single, just giving you and example of the size you can fit in there. I recon with a good deal of planning I could just about squeeze dual 3 inch over the diff, the biggest problem is getting it past the standard tank. But since you going a fuel cell mate a duel system will be no dramas, just need planning and working through it. It would be a full custom job working out what angles the pipes need to be on and travel through, not hard just time consuming.

I have just made my own exhaust which was only single but there is still plenty of room down the back. I used 3 1/2 inch from gearbox crossmember into a 3 1/2 inch muffler in the rear factory position then turned the 3 1/2 inch pipe up out of the muffler. I used a reducer down to 3 inch over the diff and out the rear with a hotdog style muffler sitting between the spare tyre well and the fuel tank. I had to work around a haymen reece heavy duty towbar as well, with a bit of creativity you could fit large twins in. If you or someone you know has decent fabrication skills it's really not hard just takes a bit of planning and a bit of time to get right. Cost me $300 to make my exhaust not including mufflers and that was from the start of the secondaries in the extractors to the tip at the rear, and I even made my own tip.

Yeah I already have the cable running through the cabin of the car to the firewall. I was thinking of running some 2awg wire to starter out of the dist block but I just dont know if you can go to big on wiring. I know the bigger cable helps with resistance but can you go to big and start causing problem?

Size of tank depends on how often you want to fill up. 3/8th line is bigger than standard if thats the internal diameter of the line as my xe has standard supply line of around 9mm outside diameter. Also be careful if your going to use braided hose as the internal size is different (smaller) to hardline when they both have the same outside diameter. As for route of the fuel line my xe runs the supply down the passenger side sill, and this is factory. The return to tank and charcoal canister lines run along the chassis rail and meet the supply line near the lower control arm mounting point.

I bought 2 exhaust studs from masters as hendrixhc shows in his pic (it was either $3 or $4 dollars per stud), they are to long for a crossflow when using 3mm thick steel washers (only about 2mm to long but the nut does not touch the manifold let alone secure it). I went to my local bolt store and bought all thread bolts that I cut down to size to make studs which was much cheaper than buying them from masters. I bought 12 bolts and 12 3mm steel washers for under the price of 12 studs from masters which are champion brand studs (I had to buy the studs from masters as the bolt shop gave me 10 not 12, my fault for not checking) Can see the studs I made in this pic, the studs and washers cost me under $35 and when I cut the bolt head off to make the studs I had enough left over to make new engine mount bolts.

Since you have an XH you will have the a dizzy on your engine, if you install an EF engine it will have coil packs which will need to be sorted. EL engine comes with the dizzy.

here ya go, from the great knowledge that is Crazy http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1682-diy-catch-can-under-25/?hl=catch+can

In the bay dickhead- thought I would put it up before anyone else Anyhow I have 3 choices for engine location. All measurements are from factory location and are approx within 2-3mm 1.Move 20mm rearward and 10-12mm up 2. Move 8mm rearward and 5-6mm down 3. Move 8-10mm forward and 10-15mm down (how far down depends on engine being level) The engine crossmember is already modified, the sump is a modified one and will not be touched and if moving the engine forward the front crossmember will need to be modified as well which isn't a major drama. The car will get the UCA mod (shelby drop) as well So which one would you chose and why?

Can't wait to see your ute mate.

I think that's always the problem isn't really. But the way I see it, so long as the positives are much bigger than the negatives then it's worth while.

^^^Think that about covers it^^^ Lol thanks for the explaination dude. Damn it now I have to move my battery to the rear as well!! More bloody work

No engine conversion dean, just using custom engine mounts on a crossflow. Its just an NA crosfflow. I have spaced the gearbox down and diff is changing configuration but I was mindful of the angles. I do agree with the lower and further back but Im just not sure on which on or is more important, or if the positives outway the negatives in option 1 and 3. I never even thought of the heat in the bay issues, cheers Edit: The custom engine mounts are called Ryno mounts and you get them from Tony's metal and speed on facebook or Ando76 here on the forum.

Here ya go, a pic of my combustion chamber before it was ported. The only real difference to how it was after porting is the edges of the chamber have been smoothed so there are no sharp edges.

My engine has 10.3-10.5 CR. It's using 29.3cc dished pistons with a skim off the top and valve clearance in the piston (hence the not exact comp as was measured before the valve clearance). My cylinder head is a C2A and it has been shaved A LOT, combustion chamber is layed back and valve shrouding removed measured at 42cc. If you have the C2 head on a bench, do yourself a favour and measure the combustion chamber so you know exactly what you have, otherwise you will just be guessing again at the comp. Just put the valves back if they have been removed, get a clear piece of plastic over the combustion chamber so it doesn't leak and measure with an accurate measure like a syringe or dropper. Once there is no more air under the plastic and before the liquid flows out the little hole you drilled in the plastic to get the fluid in that's your cc's.