wagoon

Yeah Nath I wondered about the shelby mod with the coilovers, but I would be checking with the maker of the coilovers to see if they still back their product with the shelby drop. I think Ando has it right when he said that these would be great for someone that cant do fab work themselves for what ever reason. I am guilty of jumping of the fabrication band wagon where as a few years ago I didnt have the skills or time to be doing any sort of fab work. I still see the generic king springs (sl,ssl,sssl) as only a cosmetic upgrade not to actually increase the performance and handling. So comparing these coilovers to a handling bias setup is probably not fair. I think the ride height adjustment is perfectly suit to getting the look of a car just right and as Nath said will probably workout cheaper to get the coilovers.

Nath got his set today but won't put them on cause blah blah blah. I am interested to see how they go as they are more expensive than a set of bilsteins and custom king springs, which when used with a shelby drop I would be thinking would provide better handling than the coilovers. This is only my opinion and am happy to be proved wrong but to me the specs on the coilover are more suited to looks than handling.

I found that the efi one hit the standard weber carby on a standard manifold, didn't bother to find out what I would have to do to make it fit although it should be to hard to make it fit with you favorite hammer. It's a worthwhile upgrade though as the tin covers can leak a fair bit.

I think efi again comes down to the money you want to spend (see the trend here, money is the key to this type of setup) A carby blow through setup will work fine if you don't cut corners and you know how to keep an eye on them, if you set up an electric fuel pump like I am in my roller cam setup it will be fine. I will prime the fuel system by a switch if the car has been sitting for at least a few days then turn the switch off and the car will operate on a ignition cutoff where by if the engine stalls the cutoff will shut all power down to the fuel pump. This will eliminate the dry starting issues of a carby engine that has been sitting. Yes EFI will give better drive-ability on the street and give a few extra percent in overall power but if you car is currently carby you will need to change fuel tank and possibly fuel lines, fuel pump, wiring, install an ecu and add sensors sensors. Really there is only about a 5-10% difference between carby and efi turbo setups, but if you are chasing that last few percent then efi is the only way to go. But efi will add quite a lot more money to the cost as not only will you need to buy a wiring harness, ecu etc buy you will also need to buy a fuel rail and injectors to support the power level you are chasing

Are these the manifolds you where looking at? 1.Log manifold http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ford-turbo-manifold-turbo-kit-xd-xe-xf-xg-ea-eb-ed-ef-el-au-ba-bf-/161885588020?hash=item25b1220a34:g:u-EAAOSwniRWNytU 2.Non log manifold http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ford-turbo-manifold-turbo-kit-xd-xe-xf-xg-ea-eb-ed-ef-el-au-tickford-/161886423448?hash=item25b12ec998:g:ZxMAAOSwvt1WRbyU It still comes back to how much your going to spend and how much power your chasing. Manifold 1 is basically as budget a setup as you can get, yes it will work as such but no very well at all. Manifold 2 is better than manifold 1 but still not the best. It uses quite sharp bends on #2to #5 port which will choke the flow a bit, I would also be wanting to see a car with one installed as it looks like it's quite a wide design and may limit the size and type of turbo used. The welds aren't the worst but not the best either. So over all manifold 2 is not to bad and will work up to a point, but there are better designs out there just comes down to dollars and end goal.

Before grabbing bit, decide on which type of crossflow you want. NA motor will be better with C1 or C2 head where as turbo will a more open chamber head. The ef crank will require machining of certain blocks and is really only needed when full on racing and spinning over 6500 all the time. And if thats the case you will be looking at the 2grand+ forged pistons and rods. So whether for turbo or NA your looking at over 10 grand just on the engine when your engine/setup requires an ef crank.My 350Hp solid roller cam engine uses standard crank, standard rods with ARP bolts and standard hypertec type pistons.

To me its the type of fast you want not how fast you want to go. A big turbo is no use to me on tight tracks like hill climbs, but would be perfect straight line speed where you have time to build boost. As for size of turbo that really comes down to how much lag is to much and how good the motor is. The bigger the turbo the more lag and more pressure on the motor. A smaller turbo like a 35/76 would be better for throttle response but wont make as much peak power as a 42/94. You can also change how much lag there is by changing the turbine AR value, the trick is picking the compressor that suits your operating range and power needs just like picking a camshaft for an NA engine. But most people just put on a cheap/big turbo and run with that.

Guessing pogo would have had fairly low diff gearing to keep tyre speed up? It has got me thinking though in a different application and in a light car the 200ci might shine. If you could put it in a light enough car I think it would go alright. Cars like rear drive corolla's do alright with a little 4 banger that screams to 8 grand.

Has anyone ever gone all out on a 200ci, as in retained the stock 200 rods and stock piston height? I understand the 250 will give more torque but in a racecar wouldnt the extra rpm overcome that, or does harmonics still limit it?

Sorry I miss read your previous post, missed that you were asking about roller cams. My solid roller cam is from tighe cams. I still have the box at home for the roller lifters and am using big block tie bars for the lifters.

What was the car doing through the traps when you had 3.45s and what tyre size did you have? Has the 60 foot improved using the 3.9's?

Cleveland rockers fit and you will have spares. You can get 6 cylinder sets which just have 4 less rockers but the actual rocker is the same

Wouldnt know what standard dish was but doesnt really matter. Get the head ported first(depending on how far you want to go with this) and shaved then cc the combustion chamber. Once you have the cc work out the piston dish required with zero dech height. Precision international have new hypertec pistons in 4 or 5 different dish sizes and oversize ( one may even be flat top I cant remember)

My solid roller cam crossflow made 350hp and ran 11.8 with a carby in a 1200+ kg cortina with the previous owner. I have rebuilt the engine using 29 cc dished pistons and a C2 cylinder head with 42cc combustion chamber and my CR is 10.3-10.5 Cant go flat top pistons as it will make the CR to high. The same cortina as I mentioned before ran low 13's with a mild crossflow with a 2 barrel carby. Yes they can be made to go fast and like you said plenty of knowledge on here about that

Yeah unfortunately you aren't left with many option when running the current tyre size (26.6 inches in diameter) And your right going to a shorter gear isn't always what is needed, although you did make quite a large jump in gear ratio. If you aren't increasing tyre diameter at all with a ratio jump by that much as you have found your not going to gain, and in fact you will probably lose. How does the car leave the line now? Did it bog down when you had the 3.45's? Was the tyre size the same when you has 3.45's? What are you running rear suspension wise? srings, shocks, bushes etc Most important question is are you prepared to lose some street drive-ability for better quarter times?

Change tyre size first to find out the diff ratio you need, then decide if you sell or replace gears in current diff. Go to a wreckers and pay $100 for a matching pair of tyres in a larger diameter, run around on them for a bit to see if it's what you need. What size rim do you have now?

Would a factory setup be capable to learn such a big change? Only ask as I thought factory stuff had pretty limited learning capability.

Thats a perfect example Grimmy of modifiying well beyond the capability of an engine without improving other area. Ando the ecu would learn from small changes but removing the baffle would change the muffler from 1 1/2 inch diameter outlet to 3 1/2 inch outlet which no ecu would be able to cope with. The other thing that has been missed and may help is removing inlet restriction by the same amount although it still wont get the ecu to put more fuel in.

Here the ignition http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/6530_-_MSD_Digital_Programmable_6AL-2.aspx

ECU can make small changes and adjust for small changes. removing the butt plug from the exhaust is not a small change. If you put an insert in that had a larger internal diameter you may find the bike improves on what it was before, but increasing the flow to much will require more fuel than they ecu can adjust for.

My feedback would be I want it. Nothing wrong with that combo at all mate, it should definitely get up and move. There are a few possible upgrade but that's for when you want more horsepower. In regards to gearing it depends on the tyre size as well, if your running 3.89 with a 27 inch tyre it's like running 3.5 with a 25 inch tyre. It's not exact but as a very general guide, for every inch changed in tyre diameter is like changing 1 step in diff ratio. It does depend on ratio's inside the box but there are calculator on the net that can help out, and as Greg said just take note of speeds at rpm and work it out from there. You would be surprised how often a car would benefit from a drop in diff ratio, especially with a ford engine where you can take advantage of the torque produced. But that also comes down to setup and whether you just out there to have a bit of fun or your chasing times.

+1 on flow increase through the engine. When I had my quad I tried a simple airbox mod by removing the snorkel like feed into the air box(snorkel helps keep water out) This was the only change I made to it and the bike developed a massive flat spot so bad I nearly fell off a couple of times as the engine would just die. Since I didn't have the snorkel with me I taped up half the hole and the flat spot was just about gone. Jets would have fixed the problem as Greg pointed out. It's the exact same principal with cars but generally a car is a little more forgiving and you aren't making such massive changes, as you said Nath the exhaust pipe is now double the size. Imagine taking the standard 2 inch exhaust and putting in a 4 inch exhaust on your car, it would make a really big difference.

These 2 situations are heavy load applications, as well as heavy car with hard acceleration and high rpm . If you don't plan on racing or placing the engine under heavy load then the cast stuff should be fine, just like with a standard factory crank. If you treat a scat cast crank like you would a factory cast crank you should be fine, just enjoy the extra torque and keep it to the same revs/load limit as a standard engine. If you want performance go the forged one.

Yeah they are a good alternative to tacho with shift light if you dont need a tacho. The light also functions as 3 different shift lights as it has pre shift, shift and over rev flashes all in different colours. You can even turn off the digital tacho screen so only the lights flash.

This doesnt require a tacho to trigger and is genuine auto meter product with the benifit of being digital http://www.autometer.com/black-dpss-tube-level-1.html