wagoon

So my crossy's good for 8000rpm then, time for a bigger camshaft My crossflow has an Ando built factory pump with decent clearances in the engine and when we primed the oil pump it was at 80psi. Ando will remember what the clearances where on my engine no doubt

QFM pads offer bite when cold unlike pads like EBC green stuff and red stuff pads but are of the same level of performance as the EBC ones.

Regarding shelby drop I have been told that the bolt joints bind and I have been told that they are fine. I have seen the ball joint thread on here regarding the new vs original type. Only thing I can say is I will be finding out soon what happens and if it does bind then I will try a fix for it. Only thing no one really mentions when they do have trouble is how low there springs are so thats why I am still going to try it.

Yep standard rebuild of standard calipers. Those T2 rotors can be had from a few places, just shop around for a good price. As for the QFM pads these guys sell them http://www.brakesdirect.com.au/Qfm They have an ebay store as well as through their website. They also sell the T2 rotor and superpro bushes as well.

I haven't got there yet as my sedan is still a work in progress. But this will be the setup of my solid roller crossy powered track car. If it's good enough for sikxe351 and his clevo powered sedan that sees the track alot it will be fine for just about if not everybody here.

Probably the best I have heard off apart from Koni and Bilstein is pedders. Pedders springs and shocks from the reports I have seen are not as harsh as kings springs with standard type shocks (monroe etc) and the pedders shocks seem to be able to handle ok. My wagon is running run of the mill shocks(can't remeber the brand but they are standard). When I had the standard springs in the car they are ok with plenty of understeer when pushed. I then bought a parts ute that had low kings springs ( not even superlow these are one step under standard height) that I swapped into the wagon. It was mainly to get a reading on the installed spring pressure of the springs but I haven't been arsed pulling them back out again. The install of the king springs alone reduced the understeer enough that the back started to get tail happy and I was then starting to get over steer. My tyres were starting to get pretty low( and very old) at this point so I go new tyres. I lost the oversteer cause the tryes gripped a lot more than the old tyres I had on the wagon but the understeer stayed away. BUT with installing the low king springs I have had a couple of instances of the upper control arm hitting the bump stop and bashing it sounds like I have just snapped the chassis of the car, with the standard spring I had never hit the bump stops. There is nothing wrong with my shocks, they still control the car quiet nicely but when it comes to harsh sudden bumps they can't keep up with the king low springs installed So what does this blurb/rant/waffle mean. Good quality short stroke shocks are not just for handling and going around corners fast, they are for general motoring comfort and will help to stop the car from hitting the bump stops when using lower than standard springs. As a bonus you will be able to corner faster but that is because with a good quality shock like Koni or Bilstein controls the car better(Bilstein give a slightly harsher ride than Koni, I have been told this by several people independent of each other). That is what the shocks are suppose to do, so if you skimp on shock quality you are skimping on ride quality it's that simple.

Rebuilt girlock caliper with QFM pads and DBA T2 rotors.

Certainly is worth the effort in terms of gains. Panko you could show him a couple of youtube vids that show how much of a difference it makes. I watched one with the camera stuck to the outside of the car looking at the front tyre as it goes through turns. You can see the positive camber, kind of scary really. Tell him its for both longevity and safety of the car as both are true. Will also help with wear on the tyres too as your not rolling on the outside so much. You could get the drop done in a day with a bit of help, a weekend would be all you would need though. Its the exact same process as removing the front spring execpt you drilling 2 holes on each side of the car.

Would he really notice the shelby drop? It doesnt lower the car that much but really helps with wheel position. Its just 2 extra holes each side, nothing more. As for the template I only need it once so seems silly for it to just sit in my shed. Just use a 3mm drill bit through the jig, remove the jig and drill to size. That way the jig stays accurate and then pass it on, then we all can have shelby goodness.

Going off Crazy's experience he had to make a spacer for the washer to sit flat on but he did not strenghten anything.

Well consider it the ozfalcon shelby drop template. I will pull my finger out ( clean my finger before touching template) and get the job done so I can pass it on. Have to thank Crazy for his accurate drawing that I made my template from. Will take a pic of template when I get home and put a couple of pics.

If either of you blokes are interested I made up a drilling jig for doing the shelby drop. Its on my long list of things to do but after I have finished with it if you pay post (its 1 plate with 2 bolts will fit in post bag) its yours.

The nut behind the wheel

Yeah agree with Thom, I don't know of a wilwood setup that is ADR compliant. So any brake upgrade using bigger discs is probably just as good. Keep in mind people doing circuit racing use a standard good condition girlock caliper with a grooved disc and good brake fluid is enough that they don't see brake fade. If this setup is good enough to pull up a clevo powered x series on the track it would be plenty for other application

I really wouldn't recommend putting such a big tyre on such a little rim. That's a 12 inch tyre (close enough to anyway) which should be put on a 10 inch rim

I speculate that for a car setup for handling the coilovers Ando put up will out perform the xyz coilovers everyday of the week. How can I comfortably make that statement? It comes down to specifications just like in an engine. If you look at all the people that use their falcons to turn corners at speed (speedway, circuit, drift etc) they all run at least an 850LB front spring along with a top quality shock absorber. The result is a falcon that doesn't suffer from understeer, which allows for a much higher corner speed and therefore a much faster lap time. The xyz coilovers run a softer front spring (600lbs) so that when you want to drop your car into the weeds it won't be like driving with concrete shocks. As Nath has described the ride is a little soft when up a little higher. If Nath adjusted the shocks on his coilover to the firmer side it would control the body roll a little more and would make the car roll less. But it depends on the valving inside the shock as to whether you can actually adjust it to get a good handling setup. This has always been my concern with this sort of setup, you can never have the best of both worlds whether is be suspension or engine you always have to give up something. The XYZ coilover are perfect for the person that wants to lower their car and get the "perfect" look or just want to lower their car so it doesn't look like a 4x4. The person lowering their car for handling purpose would best look else where. Most people that drive their car on the street and lower their car would not reach a level of cornering performance that they would see the advantage of the Ando coilovers, you really need to be doing track work to see benefit of these coilover. The XYZ coilover are a good thing compared to buying super low king springs and short stroke shocks as the XYZ coilovers as Nath has said has the extra adjustability over the basic king spring and short stroke shock.

The angle of the dump also comes into play as a turn down will be different to a straight horizontal exit. I know my xy that was dumped at the diff with turn downs would make rear seat passengers fell sick if cruising at the same speed due to the effect Greg mentioned. To fix it I had a rear section put into the system so can't tell you about adding mufflers to remove the drone

I pictured the top plate to look different but makes sense now, I thought the top mount would mount horizontal. The vertical ring in the pic would "capture" the top of the spring since it's a smaller diameter than the standard size spring.

Don't forget that the springs are different lengths from factory so your going to need to replicate this.

Could be because you removed the air snorkel or could be all the little things you have done. Yes the ecu can adjust but it's guessing as to what is best as it's only meant to allow for slight changes to a standard system, not modifications as well. What do you call a backfire? is it crackling and popping on decel or is it a bang? How loud is the bang? It maybe that the ecu is adding fuel to compensate for the extra air in and when you roll off the throttle because the bike is still essentially standard it can't use all the extra fuel so it explodes. Is it bad? Well it ain't good, might not do terminal damage straight away but over time it won't be good.

To me the top ring looks to fit a c spanner for adjusting. All coilovers Ive dealt with(on quad bikes) the top nut is the adjuster and the lower nut is the locking nut.

Looks like the height adjuster is all the way at the bottom still, what height springs did you replace? Should be able to adjust the setting a bit to get a better setup as you get use to them.

One side is higher than the other as it's to do with road camber and load requirements. This pic is one ZI took when changing over to the king springs that are in my wagon now.

Nath, yeah measure everything you can but keep mind the springs will settle a bit after a while so may install a little high and wait for it to settle. I would ring the guys who made them and ask for a general setup, I would have thought there would be something in the box regarding settings and heights. Edit: just thought, are these coilovers ADR approved?

I remember either Nath says or reading that the xyz coilovers have a 600lb spring. I wondered about upping the spring rate on them, but also wondered if the setup would support 800+ pound springs. Sorry greg cant help with rebuilding info but can supply a shop in brisbane that rebuild koni and bilsteins so they should be able to help http://www.gsad.com.au/ Havent used them yet but I do plan on paying them a visit when I have the cash to do my front end setup. I have spoken to them in the past and were helpful and the bloke even owned an x series.