wagoon

If you can't get them shipped direct to you in NZ Im happy to ship them from my place. I live about an 1 1/2 from the seller so if they do pickup I would be happy to go down and pick them up and ship them off to you. Can't say that I have every done anything like that before but can't be to hard. Maybe try Australia post website to see if they can give you a postage cost from my place(postcode 4307) to your place you you can get an idea on postage cost.

If you wanted to check the piston while still in the block you could use a dye penetrant test kit. You get them from tool or welding shops. They come in a 3 part kit. The first spray can is used to clean the metal surface(no grinding is needed on a piston surface but a clean with 1500 grit paper would be good) Part 2 is normally a red dye that you spray onto the metal surface, you let it sit for the amount of time the directions say. You then spray the cleaner(part 1) over the surface again but not directly into the crack, you can use a rag to wipe the piston in this step. All you are trying to do is remove the red dye from the surface. The you use the 3rd part which is a white spray known as the developer to expose any cracks. The cracks will show up as red lines cause the dye has penetrated into the crack and the white shows the red dye up. That's why you don't spray the cleaner directly into the crack. I do this sort of crack testing a lot at work and it works fine and it should work in this situation so long as you clean the top of the piston first with a bit of fine paper. I would remove the sump as well as both the cleaner and excess dye will end up in the sump otherwise. Then when you have checked the piston just spray part 1 of the kit down the bore to remove any excess dye and developer as part one is an alcohol based cleaner it will evaporate anyway. Then new sump gasket head back on and your away.

Can't say I know much about pistons and the internals of an engine but that looks to me like just a mark in the metal. It looks like a gouge or indentation made by something that has entered the combustion chamber, I have seen plenty of cracks in metal and to me that does not look like a crack in metal.

Yes I want to, but no I won't

Bout the only bear attack you will get from me is a bear hug when my engine fires, promise I won't break your ribs..... well maybe. How bout, I will try my best not to cause any damage when I give you a bear hug when my engine fires

I know all about making something to suit multiple applications, I spent 2 hours making 1 drawing for my engine mounts and that was only for the engine plate on the passenger side.

Here's pro's blown crossflow Not that Im stalking you or anything Dave

I did know you built that car Pro but you are the only one I really know of that has done supercharging with any real success. And with your current position being turbo's are simple, cheap and fairly easy (which I agree with) that was the reason behind my statement. Someone like yourself is really going to be one of a very few people that are going to be able to make the supercharger work. Also the obvious cost of a forged bottom end on top of head work and then blower kit, if you were starting from scratch would be $15k all sorted surely. I for one would love to do a blown crossflow but that is going to have to wait until I win lotto or stubble on a bag full of cash. Thats why I said NA or turbo as both have been done quite a few times and parts are going to be fairly easy to get which means a bit cheaper. The turbo route is always going to make more horsepower in the end, and it really comes down to want you want from the car as to which way you go. A good powerful and reliable turbo setup isn't going to cost substantially more than a good NA build but it can produce substantially more power, albeit in a narrow power band with not very good street driveability. There is always trade off when going this crazy on an engine

I would follow what Pro250 said and get a C4, most of the auto's are only for very mild applications. You would probably struggle to find enough aftermarket parts readily available to build the box up to hold decent power. If this box is for your serious horsepower crossflow I would seriously consider a turbo 350 gearbox as they have a lot of aftermarket parts and are a bit cheaper than a C4 to work. At the end of the day both the C4 and the Turbo 350 have around the same torque rating when built it's just the 350's are a bit cheap. Plus if you have to find an adapter for the C4 to crossflow then you will just have to find a 350 to crossflow adapter

Supercheap normally has a stand with champion stuff on it or if you have masters hardware near you they have just about the entire champion catalogue in stock

I can promise you that I wont be cutting up my car, thats the only reason Im not using the coilover setup for the front that Ando put up. For the amount of bullshit Ive gone through so I dont cut a hole in the bonnet I see that there is always a way not to hack shit up, its just not the easiest way. Far from it

Im hoping that I dont have to go to the same lengths as Crazy did, but going off everything that I have done in my build it will probably end up in some full custom bullshit. Will have to wait and see

Here ya go http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/325-diy-uca-shelby-drop-journal-xd-xe-xf/#entry3971

Just a warning though crossflows become addictive To make serious power I see only 2 viable options NA or turbo. I would forget the supercharged idea, while they look and sound cool I just don't think it will compare to a serious turbo or NA motor. Now with the turbo motor if you want serious your going to need aftermarket inlet and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust manifold shouldn't be a problem but it ain't going to be cheap (more than a grand for a 6 boost beauty). for a good one. The inlet side is a choice between efi or carb. Carb can be done but I don't know how well you can shove boost into an aftermarket carby manifold and expect it work like NA and your going to need to get someone to setup the carb. EFI inlet is going to be either full custom or heavily modified aftermarket version, but your going to have to work with someone that knows the way the inlet flows to get even flow all the way back to #6 cylinder. Your going to need a computer to run the efi which means you need to talk to your tuner and see what they like to use, then your going to have to see if it will work with a crossy. Then you can start on the cylinder head which is going to be the most important part of the build. As Sly pointed out you can expect to sink several grand into a working head that's ported with roller rocker and a good seat cut (seat cut is probably the one of most important part of the head work) Then theres the bottom end. You can save yourself a bit here by getting hypereutectic piston, but I am not sure if a high boost engine will need forged bottom end. You will need to prep the block for oil flowing back to the sump, speaking of a sump it will need to be a custom setup with windage trays and scrappers if you want to rev it. Depending on the sump you might need to modify the engine crossmember. These are just the basics of a serious crossflow, and yes there are people that have built serious crossflows that did not do this. But making a proven better than 330hp crossflow that doesn't break every couple of times you run it takes all the "over the top" prep. Even when you do all the prep and spend the time, if your pushing the envelope you can expect breakages just like any serious hypo engine When I talk to people about my engine and say it's going to make around the 350 hp they think it's not much, and when you consider they are making 500hp factory supercharged V8s now 350hp doesn't sound much. But when I say that the engine ran mid 11's in a full weight street car and that a 350hp crossflow is actually like a 450hp+ V8 they start to understand that a hypo 6 is more than just the numbers it produces.

Yep that's the one Steve

In my daily drive wagon I am using an antenna that you plug into the back of the stereo in the normal way but it just sits in the back and picks up the signal, you don't see it at all. For me it doesn't work the best but I think that has a lot to do with the stereo in my car more than the ability of the antenna. It is just one wire, no box or anything on it.

Nothing off the shelf just like everything to suit a go fast crossy as I am finding out. It's all the little things that need to be made/modified/desgined then made that is just not there for the crossy. I have designed and made engine mounts for a crossy, had to make throttle brackets as off the shelf stuff doesn't fit, had to search a lot to find an air filter that will allow enough air into the engine without hurting performance and fit between engine and shock tower. This is only a couple of things that I have made as well. Not trying to scare you off but trying to make you aware that a truly fast crossflow is not something that can be put together with off the shelf stuff. Most shops would either struggle/take a while/ or charge shitloads for all the "custom" parts needed. I think that is what makes a fast crossflow so special, it has the blood, sweat and lots of tears of the owner put into it. But it is a very rewarding experience once your there ,or at least that what I keep telling myself so I can actually get to the end of my build without going insane (it helps to be a bit loopy before you start)

Read the combo I copied into this thread. It is the same specs as the crow (not sure of the brand of cam in the combo) but was used to great success but just don't expect it to beat the world http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/5270-what-to-build/

Going off what Ando said it should be ok, but I gather they can be improved to work better. Might be worth your while contacting Ando to see what one of his pumps are worth, then you know you will have one built to what you need. Always better to get something that suits what you need rather than a generic aftermarket item that might cover what you need

So are you saying this is representative of the way I work?

How bloody nice is that, I get abused cause you forgot to do something All good dude no stress, I'm trying a few different things so wont worry about if for now.

I finally got a water temp gauge in my wagon. When the air temp is low to mid 20's °C like when I drive to work the engine temp is under 170°F this is highway and suburban driving. Then on the way home from work air temp is over 33°C car temp is 180-190°F. Went for a drive today, its raining and air temp is low 20's°C car temp was 160°F. Engine is 200 with 4 speed and no AC, has standard narrow 2 core radiator. Is the 160-170 running temp to low and using more fuel because its to cold?

been a bit busy but got the holes drilled yesterday for the shelby mod so I have finished with the template. So if anyone is interested in using the above template let me know. I haven't refitted the UCA yet as I'm going to replace the UCA bushes while they are out, which requires money I don't got. Edit: Just noticed that it looks like the bottom small hole on the left looks out of line, it's not it's just the angle of the pic taken. I used digital verniers to check the distances between hole centres before drilling any of them

You will find it hard to get a solid in a smaller/mild size unless you go custom. So to get a solid your going to have to have a certain level of performance in mind anyway. Once you get to that level of performance usually application deems whether a hydraulic can be used or a solid. Solid will out perform as mentioned above, so hydraulic is really only a choice in that level of performance where you don't want to/have time to perform the maintenance required for the solid. Take a look at both of these camshaft manufactures top 2 links are Tighe bottom 2 links Camtech. You will notice for both manufactures the smallest solid is at least half way down the list for the hydraulics when comparing size Tighe solid http://tighecams.com.au/cars.htm Tighe hydraulic http://tighecams.com.au/profiles2/fordcrosshyd.htm Camtech solid http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ford_6cyl_xflow_sol.html Camtech hydraulic http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ford_6cyl_xflow_hyd.html

I like that info but it has me worried.