xeeclipse

Why standard bore? Every crossy is flogged out a minimum of 20 thou these days. 

Willwood's aren't RWC complient supposedly......something to do with not being a Ford certified product?

I reckon the cam timing is out dude (retarded 2 degrees on crank). At least you haven't wasted the engine like one idiot did years ago.

yeah it would but i just want to find out whether it's an isolated incidenct or is number 3 cylinder the weakest link in a crossflow? 

Guys im running the EFI manifold and am finding that im getting more oil deposits in my number 3 cylinder then the rest. Comp is good with new seals, I'm finding more oil down the number 3 intake runner?

One tooth on the crank usually equates to 2 degrees.... 0 out both cam and crank and then slip the crank forward by one tooth.

Their all different apart from the very last (87DA) XF-EL i think. I know that the 78DA and 83DA both use different bolt sizes and the hub size does vary......pain in the backside.

First oil change at 500km is good enough and multigrade oil can be used from my experience. I usually use GTX3 which has supposedly got a low zinc content :/, although I do add half a tube of molybdenum additive. Done this the last 3 times and no problems.

PENRITE HPR 15-60 FULL SYNTHETIC....Caters for a wide range of engines whether multi valve or pushrod and good in both high and low km engines.

How old were the pushrods you were using? You should use heavy duty ones just incase you momentarily have a loss of spark.

Just get the A/F to metric adaptor off ABS brakes and whack a whole EB-ED rear end in it.

The rear calipers assemblies off a XB-XF are an abortion, I can't seem to get the slide pins from seizing . EA-ED seize up in the hand brake worm drive but i've rarely seen the slide pins seize.

nah that was built at Cardiff NSW i'm in Maryborough QLD we built the pan pacific locos and qr national ones, we built the qr rail trains for Brisbane cq02/03 and purd contract for perth, now we just did refurbishment on cairns tilt and halfway through 7 new tilt cars for cairns then it's all maintenance work in dribs and drabs so we are hearing 60 to go by xmas and the new guy running the show wants to sack us all and re hire under contract labour

Everyone is being put on contracts these days because of the ease at which they can give you the flick.

The RACV used to have a vast road service fleet, now they prefer to employ contractors to do their so called 'dirty work'. They rather pour their money into their resorts and insurance side of the business as seen in the monthly issues of ROYAL AUTO. Why you may ask? Because roadside service ain't as simple as it used to be and their sick of dealing with complaints, not to mention it tarnishes their reputation.

decent size hyd roller will see you well over the 500hp mark.

contact camtech, tell them what you want, let them do the work. reap the rewards of their hard work.

It would get well over 500hp I'm sure but for once I'd like an engine that runs nice and clean at idle. Loseing my job in April of this year has put a spanner in the works

I don't muck around with overweight XC's and 351c....I've only got 400+ cubic inches of roller Windsor and an XE to slot her into

HOLY GRAIL OF DRIVEABILITY.......

-Mustn't have a high stall

-Have no shorter diff gears then 3.5

-At idle it doesn't burn your eyeballs into submission

-Doesn't require plugs to be cleaned after every cruise

-Can last a minimum 0f 5,000kms between oil changes

-Starts first thing in the morning

- has no flat spot off idle

All this and making 500hp at the crank is my prerequisite for a street engine....Others can have their extra 100hp, but I know what I want and that is all that matters.

450hp is a sounds a bit rich for a good honest streeter, id stick to 400hp and that is probably getting up near the driveable ceiling.

Does anyone hear realise that Dick Johnson ran a cam around 260 degrees advertised duration and had only 450 hp? And that was a race engine with 4v's.

A hot tanked and rebored block will set you back $ 1,200. Most of the factory blocks that people want $500 for are scalled and corroded to to the point that their a waste of time if considering a proper build.

SOLID: Skitzo engine that doesn't get driven

HYDRAULIC: Daily run around and the logical choice.

Just sat back down with a coffee and realised I mistook the advertised figures as the .050" specs..... :$

Apologies Mcfly, but in regards to comp that dude will definitely need rocket fuel

I just had my open chamber heads done up. I had them surfaced, oversized valves, valve seats relined, mild port and polish, fitted with Manley valves, crane seals, crane springs and crane retainers. I am going to run crane silver series roller rockers, pushrods and guideplates and a crane something or rather cam with and edlebrock performer manifold witha 600vac holley. If this helps you!

 

 

Cam specs if you are interested.

Dude you should be using closed chamber heads, this thing is gonna fuel up like no tomorrow. Once it's built can you please put the car in a confined space with Mcfly and run it for 10 minutes to teach him a lesson?......

xeecplipse; that cam would be pretty cool for a stock upgrade, wouldnt be anything crazy but itd be a nice cruiser cam, kinda got its own neiche there, its what stock should have been, much better cam then what they had, or maybe the ESPs n Spacks should have come out with it....

 

dont be a pussy put robdogs man cam in you know you want to, buy another car for a daily.... like.... a ute on gas, so you can pick up bits for the weekender

go on doooooooooooo it, then when you pull up to the lights you can be like LOLOLOLOLOLCAAAAATCHA!!!

It's not a neiche cam cause it makes very strong midrange power, where a crossy is happiest. Any shit above this robs low end torque, I've run a few different varieties of cams in Ford's so I know.

my crow 14221 cam is a sweet little thing, with some comp 10.1 you can get a good mix of economy and power out of it. My 1700kg wagon down low feels like a stock engine and goes very well between 2,000-4,000rpm.....someone try it for f%$k sake lol 

I'd be cutting up the manifold and mounting the carby at  right angles if it was a 4 barrel. Otherwise you might encounter uneven fuel distribution, I hav no doubt the rear cylinders would run a fair bit leaner.

Stop smoking weed Mcfly, get your eyes checked......

I'd go fuel as your running a 5 speed, with a small hydraulic roller cam (in the .550"-560" lift range and somewhere around 260-270 degrees duration should sound nastier than it actually is (a comp 270hr springs to mind)), 302 rods and heads, nice and torquey and should be able to see between 11-12 liters per 100ks I driven nicely

11-12 litres....can we please get off the weed people!

I think I might look for a good 4L myself soon. Still got a mint low km DA 87 sitting at home but some RND on newer technology never hurt anyone.