Jump to content

Kiwi-E

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    507

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Kiwi-E

  1. Posted

    I'm a bit late to the party here, but I ran the same carb on my mild 351c (302 2v heads) with a eldelbrock performer manifold & spread bore adapter.

     

    After messing around with the wideband gauge and some street tuning it ran really good.

     

    After a number of different squirter trials, I ended up increased the primary squirters from 25's up to 31's and the secondary squiters from 37's up to 42's. This kept the AFR readings pretty smooth when matting it from any rpm. (manual trans) The factory acc. pump cams seemed to work best for me. 30cc primary pump and 50cc secondary pump.

     

    Looking at my jet box, i lowered the primary's from 68's to 66's, and the secondaries from 76's to 75's. Although I probably may have gone back to 76's to be safe. WOT AFR was about 13:1 from memory with the 75's.

     

    I never played with the primary PV, and can't remember what vacuum it was. Secondary PV was blocked off.

     

    Different motors and all,.... but there's a reference for what seemed to work pretty good for my motor for what its worth.

     

    Edit:

    Just looked again at the jetting you've tried already .... Quite different,....... Take the above with a grain of salt

     

    bear351c and gerg reacted to this

  3. Posted

    They look like the same saddles I'm using which fit fine with king springs.
    .... it could just be the photo angle, but it almost looks like the springs diameter is too small to suit the 'seats' in the spring saddle?
    915fe11e5583e3eecd1ccf9a5fd8c4af.jpg
    As for balljoints, I'm midway through hacking with a front end using the savy motorsport wedged balljoints. There's a couple things to consider about them if you were thinking of getting them.
    ea256f12fa0007696d4f832868149e77.jpg
    With the 1" shelbie drop mod and the savy balljoint, this was about as much compression travel as I felt comfortable with before top and bottom balljoints became close to binding.
    0f34106a886e2d6c02eccd91fbf440bd.jpg
    235/40/17 tyre for referencef42cb03f6eb26ee05d3fe625ea249e78.jpg

    Sent from my SM-A315G using Tapatalk

    Outback Jack reacted to this

  5. Posted

    Got ya now, higher uca mount on strut tower and shorter uca to ramp camber on with bump....... you would almost have to move the uca pivot mount outwards to keep camber reasonable with the shorter arm?

    It would be interesting to see how the position of the roll center would change and the amount of bump steer induced?

    I haven't done one yet but the roll center diagrams look fairly simple to construct.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  6. Posted

    Crazy i went down this road  few years ago and i got welded shorten arms from an XF track car but they wouldn't pass a wof for street use!! Im thinking along the lines of putting them back in and doing the Shelby mod but drilling the holes 1" above and slightly forward not below.
    The 'shelby drop' wasn't intended for the purpose of lowering the car, it was intended to improve suspension geometry.

    I'd be doing some homework on suspension geometry before making those changes....

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  7. Posted

    Savy motor sport in Oz also do a 3 bold ball joint that has a 18 degree wedge built into the body of it. It would be a bolt in and go option and a lot safer/stronger than the other wedges in my opinion. Also cheaper than modifying your UCA and getting them weld inspected/ crack tested for cert if its a road car

    I've been trying to order a pair off them for the last few months but they can't get stock due to covid.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  8. Posted

    Where did you end up with this build Kiwi-E?
    Stalled currently. Got as far as buying some of the components and mocking up 2/3 of the exhaust manifold.

    Then got sidetracked with a clevo swap into another car.

    Hopefully get back into this in a few months time when the clevo xe is certed and on the road.


    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

    deankxf reacted to this

  10. Posted

    Following this. I'll be in a similar boat when i get back onto the crossy +T project.... (hopefully later this year)

    As far as i got was pricing up a quick fuel 650 blow thru. At around $1,400 NZD it wasnt cheap....... from what I've read so far you can modift a holley for a fraction of the price..... no idea on how a well modified carb performs compared to the quick fuel..... how easily tuned etc?


    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  11. Posted

    I've got two major thinks left to choose for this combo. A carb and a camshaft.

    After doing a bit of homework, i'm planning on modifying a holley to suit. Do we think a 650 dp holley modified for blow through would be too much for a crossy with a reasonable cam in it? One that might rev to around 5 - 5.5k instead of falling flat at 4k. Im hoping to run around15psi of boost if the rest of the setup will support that.

    Or should i go a tad smaller with a 450 or 600 holley?

    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  13. Posted

    Anyone had any experience with Demon carbs??

    I have read a handfull of reviews from around 2007-2010...most people were saying they experienced nothing but trouble with the blow through models... One would hope they have sorted out the issues in the last 10 years or so....

    I can source a 650bt demon for a few hundred cheaper than a quickfuel.... However I'd rather spend the extra money to avoid the hassles if they are still known to be problematic.

    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  14. Posted

    I've comitted to the blow through setup. Have ordered a aussiespeed manifold and a programable MSD 6al.

    Going for a simular setup to in the above pics. Might even look at throwing a cam at it at some stage.

    I am currently looking at the Quickfuel 650 blow through (SS-650-BAN) and the 650 Mighty Demon blow through (5282020BT)
    The demon being the cheaper of the two.

    I still need to choose a suitable fuel pump and rising rate regular too.




    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

    gerg reacted to this

  15. Posted

    I have had serrious thoughts about using an e series computer and j3 chip.... it is probably a more sensible option than the blow through.


    Also found photos from this setup off facebook from awhile back
    ...... from the sounds of it it went allright for what it is. I think i'll keep looking down the blow through root for now.
    aff98d43667ef5f299b33dc8e389fac2.jpg
    8e96970ae3705eee1e54913cc094855e.jpg



    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

    XPT and NZXD reacted to this

  17. Posted

    Hi All,

    I'm currently looking at building a turbo setup for a 4.1 Crossy. This is a NZ build... so there is no worries about emissions or rego like in AUS. Engine will be in a xf sedan and will be a street car that will do mostly open road driving.  To start with I am planning to run the setup on a stock long motor (except upgraded valve springs). I want to spec the setup so that in future, if i choose to build a motor then the system will support the increased power level.

     

    Aim for the setup on a stock 4.1:

    HP Target: 250-300HP ...... happy with more, but not sure how long it would hang together

    Boost: what ever it will take before it throws a leg out. Am planning on specifying the fuel system to support up to around 12-15 PSI

     

     

    Base Engine:

    Stock xf 4.1 with higher rate valve springs

    Will run it on a descent oil so it has a bit of a chance of hanging together.

     

     

    Hot side:

    Manifold: Either log type or unequal length runner. Will be getting flange profiles cut and fabricating it myself.

    Turbo: Borg Warner k27-2 with internal gate welded shut (off a 5.9 Cummins Diesel)  Already have two of these as the price was right.

    Waste gate: probably 38mm if this will be sufficient????? Plumbed back to atmosphere

    Exhaust: Either 2.5'' or 3''

     

     

    Ignition:

    MSD 6AL Programmable

    Dizzy:  factory est

    Coil: Need recommendation... MSD something??

     

    Intake side:

    Inter-cooler: Whatever fits in the available space. 2.5'' piping.

    BOV: Maybe? ............ If needed to keep the carb happy

    Intake manifold: 4 barrel of some kind,... Aussiespeed???  Need recommendations

    Carb: 650CFM Quick Fuel Technology blow through carb ..........I'm  thinking this is way excessive... any thoughts? Was initially looking for a blow through carb around 450CFM but i haven't seemed to find one that exists.... There is always the option to modify a mech sec Holley carb to suit blow through.

     

     

    Fuel:

    Pump: Cater inline pump, 50 GPH at 20 PSI ............................. I think this should be a sufficient flow rate?

    Fuel pressure regulator: Adjustable rising rate 1:1 bypass reg. 2-22PSI base pressure adjustment.

    Fuel:  100 octane (is now commonly available at the pumps in my area)

    Fuel lines: Will use existing steel feed line for return to tank and make another hard line for feed to engine bay.

     

    Drive line:

    Gearbox: Either t5 or borg warner 4 speed single rail, (more likely the single rail as it should stand a bit more abuse before going pop.)
    Clutch: Need advice here.

    Diff: LSD or Cigweld, 2.77 or 2.92 ratio. Will only go to a shorter ratio if using a box with overdrive

    Tyres: 245/50/14 eagers ( Around 7% smaller in diameter than factory  sizes)

     

    Gauges:

    AEM wideband

    oil pressure

    oil temp

    boost

     

    This is an initial throw together of components. It would be good to hear from some of you experienced fellas if I'm on the right track or if I'm way off with some of my selections. There is probably things I've overlooked too. All input welcome.

    Please give it a chance before everyone gets on the '' carbs are dumb, go EFI'' bandwagon 😁

    Cheers

    Tom

     

    gerg reacted to this

  18. Posted

    225 on the 8" wouuld barely look streched aslong as it wasn't a really low profile.

     

    With my 235's i probably could have got away with just 'trimming' the wide parts off the lip (where its like 10mm wide), leaving the lip maybe 5-6mm wide. I think this might have given just enough clearance.

     

    Although not ideal, you could trim it and hopefully not cook the new paint, as opposed to folding it up and splitting the new paint.

     

    Decisions decisions.........

     

     

    Ps, just get another 3 challanger rims to suit

     

     

     

     

     

    gerg reacted to this

  19. Posted

    I havent run a 16x8 but i can give this comparison for what its worth.... I see you don't want to tap the lip up since you just painted it

    I've got 17x8s with 235/40/17 tyres on the front of the xe. Pretty sure theyre 0 offset. They rubed on the lip on the gard just enough to slice one tyre a bit. (Running 1deg neg camber)
    Ended up hammering up the lip (not flared) and now theres enough room when the tyre tucks in the gard. Doesn't rub anymore. Could probably fit a 245/40 tyre without rubbing easily enough.

    The xf has 14x8" on the front with 245/50/tyres. Note sure on offset, mabye 0 or slightly negative. The gards have had the lips hammered up on it. At a guess, these tyres might tuck an inch before they rubed due to the bulging sidewall. To get that low you'd need modified bump stops and probably uca, would be pretty slammed lol



    Sent from my SM-J500Y using Tapatalk

    gerg reacted to this

  22. Posted

    c581148ad51aa31b919ac9fefcbb0dca.jpg

    Sorry probably should have been more clear, was after the distance beween the two red crosses. (Distance between center of pin to center of shaft)
    Thanks

    I plan on being a tight arse and modyfing the 'cable clutch pedal' to suit the hydraulic setup instead of buying the kit.

    That Measurement gives you the ratio you need so that the master cylinder piston travels the corect displacement in relation to the clutch pedal possition.




    Sent from my SM-J500Y using Tapatalk

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  24. Posted

    Not sure if I'd risk dumping money into the borgwarner to be honnest.
    I didn't have a very good run with my bw35 behind a stock crossflow after a rebuild. Ended up needing a new band put in it after 6000ks.
    .......Although it's been driven a lot harder since then and has held up so far for another 20,000ks

    Do the bw51 use the same bands and clutch pack setup as the bw35?

    Sent from my SM-J500Y using Tapatalk

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this
×