Rayinsydney

On 1/6/2024 at 4:35 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

yup i had same problem,listen to obi wan you must,undo the striker wd40 the shit out of it,manualy use a screwdriver to strike it back and forwards a few times then spray more wd40 ,it wont be the door handle,but like dean said its the 15cm metal rod that needs flattening out or bending to take up the slack ,common problem is handle is pulled up and door wont open cause the rod needs that little bit extra pull to enguage the hook in the striker ,make sure child safety lock is off too,mine now works 100% from not working at all,15min job,once you have done it ,its easy and can fix all of them if needed.

ok, so I got the handle sorted, it now opens like a brand new door , but not fixed in the way you suggested.

the metal rod was slightly bent, so I slightly unbent it, and it made no difference, inside handle worked perfectly still, outside handle no go, I tried to make it as straight as i could, and it still didn't help.

So i googled something like 'falcon door mech adjustment' or similar, and a video popped up with a guy showing the same issue, he took the latch mech off and bodged a  screw to be glued right next to the metal pin to make the pin 'bigger', so i gave this a go using knead it, and it worked, its perfect.

The passenger rear door was similar , as in awkward to open, but if you were gentle, it always opened, so i did the same thing on it just to see if it wasn't a fluke figuring that its only Knead it so as strong as it is, you can always knock it off if its a fail so nothing to lose, and it worked, with almost no effort, both rear doors are opening perfectly.

Might be worth a try if anyones having door opening issues.

happy days.

Hello and  happy new year to all, 

My XE wagon has a rear drivers side handle issue, it opens fine from the inside, wont open from the outside , would this be a door handle issue, or inside mech issue?.

Previously , I've had issues with the door closing , and staying closed...it simply wouldn't stay closed, I put in a second hand striker mech in which seemed to deal with that , now it won't open from the outside.

any tips much appreciated, 

Ray

hello, 

Final update on this thread,  I picked the car up yesterday, all is good and runs like a dream.

the mechanic checked all systems, fuel , ignition etc and pulled the re-built carb apart again and went though that, put it back together and it runs perfectly, all that he assumes is somewhere along the way when he did the work earlier in the year, he stuffed something up and it led to the issues listed above, so he put his hand up at least and didn't charge a thing, even topped up the aircon at the same time. 

So while it has'nt answered why the car played up , why it had petrol in the oil etc, it has for now been fixed and will get a good run tomorrow.

in saying that, cheers for all the pointers, I know what to check out next time in case it gets grumpy again, for now, i'll drive it

1 hour ago, deankxf said:

this to Me points to fuel pump leaking fuel into the oil (fairly common back in the day) 
 

could try change the fuel pump next. 

 

if the petrol is getting in the oil, it can evaporate and go into the carby (too rich) as vapour and make the engine run rough (with air cleaner lid fitted) 

(if it runs better with the lid removed, this could be a good diagnoses of fuel in oil causing the running rough, other than fouled plugs )

remove plugs, wire brush and refit, run with the air cleaner lid removed.. if it runs good, change the fuel pump ASAP 

some small amount of fuel in the oil(from today's run) will clear up on it's on, but if there's lots, you would be advised to change the oil again to minimise risk of bearing damage from compromised oil. 

cheers, I'll check the plugs etc and report back, 

Quick update, the car has been sat outside for a couple of weeks now as my mechanic hasn't had a chance to come look,  just for fun yesterday i tried to start it, and it started!

Ran really roughly, the motor was rocking all over the place and blue smoke was pouring out the tail pipe, i shut it off, checked the oil level and it was way over full, and smelling of petrol , so I drained it, and the oil was just so full of petrol it almost had the viscosity of petrol itself.

I put new oil in and a new filter, the car then started and ran just as it always has, took it for a run and all went well, so somethings amiss, but at least it can drive now so i can get it to the mechanic.

Will let you know what happens , eventually

so,  its still no go, so my mechanic is going to come up one night and have a look ( he's done  a heap of work on this car so knows it well ) , its a mystery but I'll let you all know the results.

Fingers crossed, and thanks for your suggestions.

14 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

 

if it has spark, it really should fire unless it's fouled plugs or flooded (too much fuel)
before you call a mobile mechanic(guessing $200 min charge? min)
you could remove the spark plugs and take a look, if they are wet (flooded) leave them removed for a few hours if possible, fuel will evaporate

or black/rust, try wire brushing them, and refitting (wire brush them if wet from too much fuel also)

if you've been cranking it and cranking it, it's likely flooded, especially if pumping the accelerator pedal

Good shout that, I'll give that a go as next step, 

cheers, 

Ray

11 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

I'd suggest to start by putting a 20ltr Jerry can of fuel, in the tank.

It may just be low on fuel.

 

Residual fuel can, still sit in the fuel filter bowl.

cheers,  its got 3/4 of a tank,

I put a small amount of petrol into the carb and it wouldn't fire, just cranks, I may just get a mobile mech up to help diagnose it

4 minutes ago, bear351c said:

Hi mate, is it carby or EFI.?   

Carby might be blocked filter, EFI might be ignition module, fuel pump relay, or the pump itself (in the tank)

 

 

its Carb, there's fuel in the filter, I'll pull off the fuel hose into the carb and see if its pumping through i guess.

cheers for the suggestions, a new battery has gone in, car cranks over fine now, but that's all it does, crank.

Its got spark to the cylinders, but now seems not to be getting fuel, so that's my next mystery.

hello, 

my XE 3.3 has decided its a no go zone, wont start, so I'm working through what it could be, eaither battery or starter or voodoo.

when i turn the key it just clunks, dash lights go out, if i give the starter a few  whacks , it'll turn slowly but not fire.

if i hook a jump pack to the battery, post whack, it'll turn over totally fine, but not start, battery reads 12.5v, so low reading, its currently on charge and seems likely to need a new one regardless.

prior to this, its been running fine with no issues always starts perfect, other than every now and then it wont turn over on start, but if I'd jam the column shift hard up into park, it would fire up, so do i also look at inhibitor switch?

Also, if its the starter, is it just the terminals and two bolts to get it out or more sorcery?.

I'm a mechanical numpty so please use simple words

thanks in advance, 

Ray.

they are Kings Lows , the thing drives fine, just quite crashy over potholes etc

Cheers for that, front springs are new Kings, I'll have  a look on Ebay for the shocks then,  much appreciated.

Hello, 

A question on shocks, I've lowered my XE Wagon, 2" and so far have kept it with standard shocks, it rides ok but is quite crash and bang on any bumps etc.

I've not had a Falcon before this one so not sure what to expect, is this normal or should it be 'softer' , if so, what the recommendation for changing the shocks out with some more suited to the new ride height?

Any recommendations are appreciated, 

cheers, 

Ray.

An update , last night i took out the spacers from under the seat, this has definitely made a difference, as in the actual seating position when in is fine, and slightly easier to get in and out due to a bit of an increase in the gap between wheel and seat, so a win there.

The seat put up a fight to get out, and now seems to not slide back and forth so something else to look at,  the seat rails have some 'punches' that almost look like they are pilot holes to drill and tap and re-locate the rails backwards for more travel, so once the power steering gets put in soon, I'll check that out and see if it makes a difference.

With the extra gap I now have, I think that the PS install will make the flailing of arms much less effort, so may be all i need to do to get my wife driving it as well.

Will update when done, 

cheers, 

Ray.

1 hour ago, bear351c said:

Yeah, not much you can do mate, other than getting a smaller wheel. Have you thought about ripping the seat out and getting it reupholsted with less foam.?  

Spoke to my upholsterer on Friday who was doing a headlining for another of my cars, he reckons it’s pretty easy to drop the seat height , by taking foam out, also the rails can be modded with the correct engineering apparently, so it looks like a good project to sort out!

15 hours ago, dex said:

Stock steering wheel also ,?

Yes it is

Hi,  Is anyone else a tall bloke?, and if so, how do you fit in...I have an XE wagon, and am normal height at 6"4 and just cant find an easy way in or out, seat is back as far as it goes, but the space between bottom of steering wheel and front of seat ain't much, getting in is quite the circus, any tips on whether the seat rails can be moved back or anything?, is not so bad once in ,  but would be nice to not crush my leg to do it, i have kinda skinny legs too!