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chobbb

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Posts posted by chobbb

  1. Posted

    Thanks all - looks like consensus is the alloy ones are not a bad buy and with some fiddling will fit. Reminds me of the heater core issue I had - late run XE heater cores with the straight pipes coming out aren't available anymore so I needed an earlier one modified to fit.

    Cheers

    deankxf reacted to this

  2. Posted

    Thanks XCeed I hadn't thought of that but it will definitely be an issue.

     

    I might get a quote on recoring the old one as well because I don't want to be mucking around with it too much. Thinking that will be $$$

     

    Cheers

  3. Posted

    Sorry to drag this topic back up.. I have a ZK EFI with disused AC that has the wide radiator with angled top fitting, core dimensions about 660 x 460 x 46. It's beyond repair.

     

    On eBay the same radiator in alloy recently jumped in price to $335:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274577645969

     

    I assume I can fit the narrower and cheaper one, like the below, and just use a different top hose and shroud?

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154553831901?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXE|Model%3AFalcon&hash=item23fc2051dd:g:edoAAOSwOINeqox3

     

    Then there's ones that are just as wide as mine with a straight fitting, which would mean the top hose will hit the battery:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393696221074?hash=item5baa1f9792:g:GxIAAOSwLfxeIpob

     

    Advice on what will fit appreciated

     

    Cheers

  4. Posted

    6 hours ago, ZKFairlane said:

    All that's done is bypassed the fuse for the horn circuit (yellow with pink tracer wire).  The plate that the yellow wire plugs unto is the battery side of all the fuses and it runs up the middle of the panel to provide +ve to all of the circuits (yellow provides constant power to all circuits on the left of your picture, black with green tracer provides power to the circuits on the right with ignition on).  The plugs to the left of your picture are the fused sides that goes to each circuit. I doubt bridging the horn it would cause your issues.

     

    Any chance the washer fell down into that position when you removed the fuse panel?  If not, I'd still go looking for incorrect matching plugs.

     

     

    You're right - and when I first spotted the washer, it was sitting in the top centre of the fuse panel, and it had a screw in it. It had been sitting across the thick yellow wire and the black one next to it, and/or touching the purple wire in between. In removing the fuse board the screw fell out and washer moved to where it is pictured.

     

    To echo deankdx, I'm very lucky that this is all that happened.

    deankxf reacted to this

  5. Posted

    Hi everyone

     

    Thanks for your help. I pulled the dash forward and leaving the warning lights panel plugged in (alt light on/flickering when I wobbled the loom) traced the plugs in the RH footwell. The problem was definitely there, but not where I expected - a washer had fallen in to the rear of the fuse panel and perfectly created a circuit across the live centre bar (yellow thick wires) and some outer fuses. See pic linked. It was wedged firmly in there!!

     

    1627185443447.jpg

     

    I did notice when I was under there that mismatching plugs would be quite easy, and I think I'd have preferred it if that happened because they're more accessible!

     

    Cheers

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Outback Jack reacted to this

  7. Posted

    Hi all, first time post after starting some work on the 1984 ZK I've owned for 9 years. It's a 4.1 EFI on straight gas.

     

    I've had the dash out to replace the heater core, and now have it back in except centre console. I thought I'd test it before going any further, and when I reconnected the battery the alternator, park brake, fuel empty and oil pressure lights/gauges powered up. This is with the ignition 'off'. When I switch the ignition to accessories, the radio etc turn on. I can then start the car and it runs okay, but I can't switch the car off because the ignition is constantly powered 'on'. I had to use the kill switch to cut the gas.

     

    I've tested the ignition switch itself and it's fine, and I've unplugged the 6-pin connector to the ignition switch below the steering wheel - the circuit stays live and all the relays (incl gas solenoid) and the bosch relay next to the battery (connected to fusible links) click as soon as the battery is reconnected. The coil is powered too. As far as it seems, wire 16 in the schematics is getting power from somewhere other than the ignition switch. I just can't work out how this is possible from the schematics.

     

    Any ideas much appreciated!

     

    Cheers

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