cisco
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Posts posted by cisco
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Well dean the point may be moot in this case. Despite two enquiries I sent via Carsales on the 87 Fairmont without replies the car is now on hold. Had this happen before and it pisses me right off. Why do people list things for sale if they are not going to respond to enquiries???? Got me beat.
I remember the old Austin/Morris engines that had a heart shaped combustion chamber. The point of the heart would get red hot and sometimes you had to clutch stall the engine to stop the run on. The other issue with modern fuels is that they require VVT to extract the horsepower. Because of that my old school Ford man says if you are rebuilding an engine a standard cam is the best option if you are not building it for high performance.
My XE has a Dynotec CM251D cam shaft.The spec sheet says it has 214* duration @ .050"cam lift and 291* duration with SAE Valve timing .006"valve lift which is a little beyond me. The engine builder called it a "Tow and Go cam". The result for me is that idle is still smooth, is still tractible in traffic but has that bit extra grunt when you want it. Torque peaks at 3000 rpm and it will wind out to 4500 rpm easily. I think it will go to 5000 rpm if I want to flog it.
The diff is 2.77:1 and with the 4 speed single rail I put in it rpm at 100k is 2350-2400 and from memory economy is about 13 L/100 klm. My son made me promise the car to him so I am happy to keep driving it daily.
Some people have gotten the 200 crossflows really screaming them being a square engine or slightly over square when bored out. They are under rated I think.
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The compression ratio in my XE went up a bit after 2 head removals over the years and just would not run without pinking unless I retarded the hell out of it. With that I have become accustomed to only using 98 octane fuel all the time. It actually uses less fuel on 98 but not quite enough to offset the cost. The added benefit of 98 is getting a cleaner burn.
deankxf reacted to this -
A couple of handy pages with specs for xe and xf.
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XE_technical_specifications
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/falcon_XF_technical_specifications
You will see the pre unleaded XFs had a 9.35:1 compression ratio and then 8.7:1 for unleaded and the XEs had 8.8:1. I would think 9.35:1 is an ideal compromise for performance and economy.
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Thanks for your response. Yes it is a carby model. I don't own it yet but an original rust free 87 Fairmont with 220 on the clock at $5,000 has to be good buying.
If I get it I will pull the head off and if the bores are OK just give it a decoke, tidy the ports. valve grind, bash the ceramic out of the catalytic so it can breathe and drive it. Maybe 10 or 20 thou off the head.
The one I had in the late 90s I took the family on a 4000k road trip Bundaberg, Dubbo, Lithgow, Sydney and back to Bundy and it drove a dream. Fingers crossed.
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The 87 XF had a low compression engine and was the first Falcon to get a computer.
I had one years ago and from memory the distributor did not have the electronic ignition module on the side of it and the timing was controlled by the computer module behind the passenger side kick plate. I believe this module compensated for different octane fuels and they would just about run on kerosene.
I took the head off for a decoke/valve job and noted that the lips in the bores were progressively more from cyl 1 to 6 which creates piston slap issues. I was told by a Ford specialist that it was because they did not run hot enough.
My question for the brains trust is if I rebuilt one of these engines with high or higher compression ratio pistons, would the computer module compensate the timing enough for the engine to run properly on 98 octane fuel??? I would be fitting a higher temp thermostat also.
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I had to buy one to change out the plugs in my Corolla which are down a 6 inch hole. At first I had a socket with a rubber grip and it gripped the plug so tight that when you put the plug in and tried to take the tool out the extension bar came out but not the socket. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr.
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Repco has 3/8" spark plug socketwith magnetic grip for about $27.
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With the age of the car it is a good idea to fit NEW rubber brake hoses. What happens is that the inside layer of the hose starts to break away and become like non return flaps for the brake fluid.
I had the problem with my front brake calipers so it is worth replacing the hoses all round.
deankxf reacted to this -
12 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:yes thats the one i reckon it is,those other ones he has i reckon are for xb ect,never thought something as simple as this could cause so much confusion,i have taken heaps of these off b4 and always thought they are all the same but nope the bw35 still holds some mysteries of the deep.
Have a look at my post in "The Wreckers". I have a BW 35 gearbox complete with bell housing, converter, shifter, hump and cooling lines. Was regularly serviced and working perfectly when removed and replaced with a single rail.
The blue/gray console is available too.
Also I have a BW 40 which was reconditioned at some time too.
I am located in Bundaberg. You can pick them up or I can deliver to Gold Coast.
Private Message me with phone number and email address and I can send you photos and we can negotiate a price.
There is a steering column also which from memory came out of 4 speed manual XD.
CHESTNUTXE and deankxf reacted to this -
3 hours ago, Nath said:Years ago I tried replacing the non adjustable screw with this bush and screw setup (third pic) but I remember it always had issues seating properly in the hole as it wasn't threaded. Not sure if these are supposed to be press-fit or what. I've messaged the supplier but they're yet to reply.
Sent from my moto g(50) 5G using Tapatalk
I think you could Loctite the female part into the carburettor.
The Webers have a plastic thing in there and can cock up if not careful.
I had a few XDs in the past and never had any issues with the Strombergs, simplicity being the key.
omgwizards reacted to this -
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I cut the damned thing off and flare the intake end. It is only to get the engine up to temp quicker. I don't think it affects RWC but check with your RWC guy.
omgwizards reacted to this -
Not steering mods, just make sure all components are up to scratch.
You might consider heavy duty sway bars. Some say that is the best handling upgrade you can make.
I have a set of Kings Super low springs if you are interested. $100 and I could bring them to Brisbane next time I am down which will be fairly soon.
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That looks great but will costalotta moola. In Brisbane I get my instrument work done by Lionel Otto Instruments, Evans Rd Salisbury. Ph 0732773888.
What you can buy.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234809114821?hash=item36abb6c0c5:g:DzkAAOSwcThhCNQy
I would go with the genuine cluster. Fits straight in and plugs into existing wiring loom, only need to find correct speedo sender unit cog to suit diff ratio. Also maintains originality.
I have just changed the cluster in my 84 Fairmont, no problems.
Next thing you will need to consider is the fuel tank sender unit. They do not like the latest fuels which oxidize the copper strips in them. Otto Instruments are currently making up a new unit for me which has a float for $350. It will save me carrying around a 10 litre fuel can.
There are a couple of threads on here about sender units.
By the way you shouldn't worry about the chrome strip on the front of the bonnet. It is useless and only promotes rust. The same with the strips around your tail lights. Remove them, bog the holes and paint.
With the huge engine and transmission mods you intend you need to upgrade your steering and suspension to match starting with rims and tyres. In 14, 15 and 16 inch diameter sizes there are few if any performance tyres available. I have seen 18' snowflakes available but can't find them. I think it is the wheel mob at Kingston who make them.
The only mods I have done to my XE are a blueprint and balanced crossflow engine with a mild cam, extractors and a single rail 4 speed gearbox which is more than enough to take it to the edge of it's handling capabilities and makes it a great cruiser with a nice note.
If I was ever going to consider putting a V8 in it, a Windsor fom an E series is the way I would go to maintain the weight balance these cars are designed for. The Clevelands are way to heavy and require sand bags or lumps of lead in the boot to maintain rear end traction
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This is what I got today at Auto Barn.
This one holds 3 but I would go for 3 of the above angled to the driver.
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I was in Auto Barn today buying a SAAS 2" gauge mounting cup ($32) for my vacuum gauge. You could bolt 3 maybe 4 of them to that centre speaker grille which would look quite pro.
Not like original I know but they had some other cluster mounts that might do the trick.
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If you just dry sand it leaving a very light amount of rust and then paint it with Fertan. https://www.google.com/search?q=fertan+rust+converter+reviews&oq=fertan&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39l2j0i512l4j69i60.13640j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Once cured it will take primer and top coat and should hold for a couple of years at least. Another one is Feronite. In your situation I think a tannic acid will work better for you than phosphoric.
When you get to stripping it back to bare metal a phosphoric wash and wipe off just before priming is what the panel beaters do I believe.
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If the pulse rate is definitely the same between XD and XE then I think the problem is in the speedo itself however I will try the other two senders.
The problem with the volt meter I think is a faulty connection somewhere. When I turn the ignition on it usually indicates voltage but then when I am driving I notice it not indicating. If I tap the cluster screen in front of it I get it to indicate.
Even if I get the speedo to work it is going back to Ottos to get the volt meter right.
I quite like having the manifold vacuum being displayed and I have one of these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314139830133?hash=item4924316775:g:zioAAOSwFpZjGtW1&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoKXBQ0GoFEr5y0TQcaT5bhgdLaTHyF6Crmyzm8arx0YJ%2F5uY%2FGGsE%2Bj7Z6%2BS0vw0PYLt9z0ZwLdu5Tr6pemq8kANptwSdUX4ZCxuomYB7dE2%2FoRKVkqfj5A%2BnUb%2FEZ5tNfXcgqrXV513XGMhEI2sNe0FVV4F2oKx8XK6ZX89VL9M2scyHEs1AoP0B%2FpY8XTdvcuBZi1F6766RbQg2fvaboA%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4yS18LuYA
I just have to find a neat way of mounting it on the centre radio speaker grille
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Thanks Thom. The single rail in the car came out of an XD. Not sure if I changed the sender. I have two other senders in spare auto boxes. I will try them both.
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My 84 XE Fairmont has the Econo Gauge cluster and I have what is probably an XD S Pac cluster that I have tried in the car.
First time round the speedo would not read over 80 kmh and volt meter did not read at all.
I took it to Lionel Otto instruments in Brisbane and paid them $220 to give it the once over. They said they replaced a couple of resistors and checked and calibrated everything.
On fitting it to the car, temp, oil gauge and tacho are working fine but no read on the speedo and intermittent on volt meter. I will be taking it back to them but my question is regarding compatability.
Do the XD and XE speedos work on a different pulse rate or signal?? If so, is there a fix for it??
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If you pulled the thread using a torque wrench set correctly it suggests to me that you have "tired iron".
If it is just the engine in your daily banger, using helicoils will get you back on the road.
If the engine is a project for a performance car you might want to rethink about using that block.
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I managed to solve the problem by removing the bell housing half cover, degreasing and then wiping Three Bond High Temp RTV Silicon into the slight gap between the sump and the rubber seal.
It wasn't a big leak but enough to fail a RWC inspection. I should probably have put the RTV silicon on it when fitting the sump. Anyway I am most happy that it no longer leaks.
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That settles it. Out it comes. I know I can do that.
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I am not liking the idea of being under the car and working on it with the engine and gearbox suspended above me.
If it comes to the point of having to take the gearbox out it is not a whole lot more to take the engine out completely.
Thanks for the feed back fellas. I thought there might be somebody on the forum who had done it recently and describe exactly how it is done.
At the moment it is not a drastic leak so I will keep driving it until I get everything in place to pull it out. With the engine out I can lay it over on the exhaust side or upside down and make sure I get it right this time.
Can't get genuine sump gasket kits and ole mate tells me these Chinese made ones are just not as accurately made. That sounds familiar!!!!
Thanks again. I'll do a vid of the job and post it.
Recommendations for rear view mirror glue please.
in Interior and Car Audio
Posted
Mine kept falling off so I made a mount from aluminium plate. It is held by the two screws holding the centre visor clips and the mirror held to that by a 1/8" bolt through the mirror foot with a bit of rubber tube cushioning it off the screen. End of problem.
Eventually the super glue just won't hold it any longer.