jca25

Hmmmm maybe under the washer bottle but have to ask why not in the cab ?

Keep the wiring short as and not to worried if it is seen, i was thinking that as a possibility 

I'm looking for some placement ideas on the MSD in the engine bay of my xd van, was thinking of putting it under the battery tray but looks like i will need to make up a plate for it. i don't want to put in inside the car. Ur welcome to put some pics up to show 

Are they any good on a nut like in my first pic? Seems like the need a bit of meat to bite into

Yea they will work you can get them in a few sizes, i've used them on a few of the lock nuts

These are brilliant! I got some off the Wurth rep after I tested his sample one on a high tensile bolt with a rattle gun, just screwed the head off. 

Yea i've used a few of them now and they work the treat

Need to get one of these sockets its to get rounded nuts and lost security nuts off

I know in the ba on wards the pumps had to use the right oil if not they had a whine (dex III is fine but will whine) but use the ford stuff for it and will go away, So just make sure the standard GM oil is up to the specs

dam i just hard wired mine in the van, with no relays 

i tried the ef/l one only 2 bolts line up on the motor and the hole for the centre pin for the drive cog needs to be drilled out as it is larger 

Mate let us know what you come up with i'd interested in one that'll work like the yank setups.

Hey stumps found this on facebook its through  www.aussiespeed.com

Its not as bad as every1 thinks main thing is take your time pulling the dash out and putting back in so you make sure you get all the bolts so you don't break any of the dash as they are getting harder to find in gc so they don't rattle 

Beat me too it slo247, but try wats be said ^^^^^^ and i think it was bout 45 mins but some do take longer

I kept mine stock. Just replaced the rubber hoses with -6AN braided and hard line adaptors.

Thanks hendrixhc just wasn't sure has i didn't want to put the false floor back in have all the inside done to find out i got to replace it, plus the sub box is going to be seating on it 

What have yous guy done with the metal fuel line from the tank upgraded to a bigger one or kept with the stock one???

i do agree with the rest of the guy it was a ass to keep tuned and there was always a pair of pots that was running rich, but if you have the time to play with it a bit will be lots of fun   but also lots of headaches 

Correct me If i'm wrong but the manifold to head flanges on the alloy head are the same for all six ports right?

sort of had to make some of the holes off centre 

cool setup Jca4, those are 32/36 webers right? what cam did you use with those as they would be a fair bit bigger than the BX strombergs I want to use?

thats sounds bout right for the carbs  the cam was a crow this is the specs for it the next cam up is a racing cam

14650 - FALCON 250 XD CAM

Specifications:

Part no   Adv. Duration         0.50“ Duration         Valve Lift       Lash Intake       Lash Exhaust        Lobe L/C

14650     Intake  Exhaust      Intake   Exhaust    Intake   Exhaust       HYD                  HYD

              292        292           230        230          .522”     .522”                                                                 113

there old pics but shows how they have been cut, got none sorry of them on the head 

Thornspawn, mate thats awesome it's almost what i am after, do you have any pics of the manifold?

Would imagine you could cut 3 standard manifolds and keep runners 34 only. Then block off where the other runners where making sure that there were no dead zones that would trap air and/or fuel. Then repeat 2 other times. Simple. Sorry I have no idea on who might take on the task.

thats how mine were done but the hard part was get them all set the same plus to do the leads you needed to take the first manifold off

could always do something like this 

sorry photo dont show alot but it was running 3 x 2L cortina webbers had three manifolds but needed the equalizer pipes in to make a better setup mite get around to doing it one day

instead of drilling the rivits out just undo the window track bolt at the bottom of door and pull out in one 

I think the only way of doing it is to pull the mirrors off that way you dont bend the trim i just put mine in but i dont have any mirrors in yet and it was easy as to do but im sure if im wrong someone will correct me

the screen is glued in there is a wire in there if its never bn done before that you put 12v to and it heats it up make it easier to push out or you can use piano wire with to guys to cut it out 

Booster works like it should, pump up the pedal with ignition off, start car and it should drop.

 

Jack.

 Plus 1 on what jack has said try this you wont always hear the vac leak on the booster

 

And, your right on the money here to, id forgotten about the 'little cover on the choke knob' that comes off to reveal a

small nut that holds it in place. Perhaps i was thinking of the headlight switch knob to that has the little white button?

Anyway, thanks for the memory jog, now i look like a knob   hahahahahahahaa

All cool just wasn't sure thats why i asked