jca25

Xf boosters wont fit, Putting a kit in is not real hard but have never seen a full kit for sale but each part inside has a part number on them, If u do end up pulling it apart urself just be careful not break any of the bakerlite and you will something to put the rear seal in with as they break easy as. If you were closer to me i would say send it to me and i would do it for half the price 

Glad u have all fixed 

When I was in the brake shops that's all we would use for a rounded nut

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Na mate these ones


And yea done that with my sunnies

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A pair of vice grips, but I use to hit the nut with a punch first just to give a shock and it should come loose

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I was thinking more like this (although the runners are long): http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/cam-design-guide-for-weber-carbs/weber_intake/
What you have done, certainly looks the part though.

That's a cool looking setup mine needs a lot of fine tuning which I'll do one day

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Easy way of pushing them pistons back is take the handbrake lever off and whined the screw in then push the piston in at the same then u don't need to try turn the piston which is a shit of a idea

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Cool there u go I can see pics on laptop but can't in tapatalk, one of these days I'll have to put that setup on something again

 

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24 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

show us

 

The van now has a V8 in it, there was 3 manifolds there was a lot of fine tuning that needed doing to the system but worked well the way it was

Downdaughts would be cool, no tower clearance issues then.

There is a pic in my thread of my panel van with triple downdaughts webber's (1980 xd panelvan) just need the pic fix thing to see it

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You might find it easier getting a whole car. There are plenty of flogged out ea/ebs you could pick up cheaper than buying all the individual bits from wreckers

Yea I'm going to look around for one but the local wrecker here is good if u are a racer and put his name on the car he gives u the parts or at one really good price so far for my daughter's car we haven't paid for the parts for it which has been good

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Its not too bad to swap the loom and all the sensors if you pull the intake off and there is enough room in the log manifold wiring to re arrange it to suit bbm

Ok cool from what i have read we can use the early model intake plus being a dirt track car we dont need all the sensors just the bear minimum

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Oh joy this is going to be a bundle of joy to get running

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Ok guys hit the wreckers up can get a ecu off them but they cut the harnesses up when they pull the motors, next question is do any of yous guys have a harness out of a ea/eb u don't want??

 

I'll be keeping the whole au motor as its going in a au car, the street strocks are just a cheap class to run not aloud any real work as they go both ways on the track but to run the later models cars u have to have the ecu locked and sealed using a ea or eb ecu which i have just found out, its been enough fun building the excel

Nice didn't know that will have to do a bit more looking into on this motor

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Ok so how would u go with the au motor having coil packs but the eb running a dizzy still

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Ok cool can do then i thought i had read somewhere one of the ecu can be swapped but two wires need swapping

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I done a bit more looking into the class rules and you need to run a ea or eb ecu so i take it i will need the harness to suit it or being i am making it full stand alone can i use the au harness

Hi guys i'm help a mate with building a street stock for racing at speedway, its a au but with the class he can not run the au ecu as not aloud the vct, was going to us the wiring harness from the car and strip off what we don't need but need to know what ecu will mate up to it i was thing ef ?? Was hoping someone who has put a barra in a xf could shed so light on it for me 

Cheers Jason

Keep trying u can make anything work with time i run ef inner door handles on a xd

 

 

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Nice write up Jack should help out a few that needs help with the dual tank setup

 

Jason

So the first one's are what bolt into the master cylinder correct and its saying single flare but your saying its a ball flare thats used? and the second lot is for hardline to brake hose, which is double flare?

 

They look to be the same thread type which makes it easier, if they are different to suit the single/double/bubble flares i'll just make them all the same as i'm making the rubber/braided lines as well and can do them to suit what ever flare

Yea mate first ones are right p4285, its just depends on who you talk to on what they are called, a ball flare is a single flare 

 

If you do the braided line get them made by a shop that way they get tested to the right presser and they will do them in the double flare.

 

They are the same thread it will only change if you go to a e series calipers 

 

You will also use the p5555 nuts on the joiner for the line goin to the diff 

Master cyl is the p4285 nuts with a ball flare just had check on mine again

 

 

The front brake hoses are the p5555 nuts with a double flare

 

 

and the rear should be the same nuts if they are the 9'' calipers

If you run it were they did from factory you will need round abouts 10-12 mtrs depending on your bends you do make the one going up the tunnel in two peices so it joins at the bellhousing that will make it easier to put in and if its stock brakes the tube nuts shout be a p5555 tube nut with a double flare, sorry can't remember the numbers on the metric nuts if u have put the e series diff in as you need the for the diff