jca25

 
*is great...
[mention=39]jca4[/mention]'s tutorial, will always be the original, and the best.
 

Cheers mate but don't make feel to special, my head will to big hahaha

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

That is a good write up done even better then the one i did lol, i good on rebuilding them just not good at the explaining

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Hey mate,
 
the tank on the drivers side is a lot shallow for the car I pulled my twin system out I’ve still got it sitting on a shelf in my garage and I’m yet to still install it. I tried to chase the wires as close to the dash as I could but in the end I had to cut them. I can see this being an issue now. Any suggestions on where I can take it for someone to connect it all up.

Hey mate Jack hasn't been on here a bit any sparky should be able to wire it in for u. That is correct bout the outback tanks with one being smaller, if u are not after the factory look u can do a set up like mine which u can find bits on in my thread 1980 xd panelvan

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

On 10/16/2018 at 10:22 AM, XFtoXE said:

Hello all

Does anyone know where I can buy a brake booster repair kit VH395  for a XE. 2 diaphragms and 2 seals.

Part numbers: VH2579 VH2580 VH2581 VH2582

Cheers.

Hey mate you are un able to buy a kit for them but if you going into a brake shop they should be able to get the parts for you or even a local ABS shop if you have no luck let me know i may be able to get them for you from my old work place and send them on to you

 

 

On 10/16/2018 at 3:22 PM, SPArKy_Dave said:

@jca4 is our resident guru, for info on x-series brake booster rebuilds.

He has a write-up somewhere on the forum.

 

Hopefully he see's this, and comes to the rescue!
 

Hey Dave found in finally been busy with work so have been bit quite on here but i'm around 

Would need to be badly marked if it needs the handbrake cam tunnel sleeved, but like Dave said it can be done. Can u get any pics of the calipers on where the marks are???

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Why is the housing getting honed out its only there really to hold the seal in place, the piston is what u need to be looking at to see it has any marks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Mate that owns it has a removalist company I'm sure he could drop off if u are keen

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Bundaberg it's been pulled down and is std bore all have a 4 speed to go with it

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

200 crossy was out of a xf we were going to use for a racecar but changed wat car we were going with to a au

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

THE CROSSY IS SOLD,LOOKS LIKE GOING IN A WORN OUT 3.3 XE,LETS FIND ANOTHER !

Are u after another motor chestnutxe

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Will test her tomorrow.
Cheers fellas.
I also saw some smaller style hotrod booster and master cylinder set up for about $285.
New XG about $320.
Kits for rebuilds $110
But those press tools... for the seals.... where did you procure them JCA?
Please Sir.

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

I had them made at work where I am these days they are fully set up with a engineer shop, (full change of career now work in a sugar mill)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Just a question. My Utes booster makes an asthmatic weeze when I push down on the brakes.
Any idea what causes this?
Is booster on way out?
Can hear when stationary.
Strange.

Jack.

Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

U might find the seal is starting to let go, if there was a hole in the diaphragm u would know bout it the brake pedal would be hard as rock.

To test if still working fine when car is off press the pedal till rock hard and while still holding the brake down start the car the vacuum should pull the pedal down with ease under the pressure of ur foot

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The two diaphragms numbers are VH2579 and VH 2580 still need to find the others

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sorry that's all I got

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Cheers ando I hope it helps out I may have missed a bit here and there but like I said earlier it is easier for to do then explain but if anyone has a question just ask and I will try to help

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Now after you have it all cleaned up and painted you can put ur seals in using the tools I use the press to put them in but can use the hammer just make sure they are home, the silicon grease is use in the seals.

Next put one of the steel plates on the bakerlite and then use some rubber grease on the first diaphragm on the center hole there is a bit of a art to get the plate to sit in the right spot and the diaphragm on behind it,

Now the second plate with the seal goes on next and then the second diaphragm will go on and will look like the pic above sitting on press, now put ur push rod back in using rubber grease on it aswell after it's all the way put ur c clip on to hold it in place, you can now slide it back into the bottom half of the case,

Now you are getting closer to being done you should have left a front rubber seal and a reaction disc which goes in on top of the c clip then ur push rod that goes into the brake master is next on top place the booster back in to the press, now where the lid will spin on the diaphragm when pressed back together put use rubber grease on the diaphragm side put the spring back in and lid on and line up the two marks that you made in the start before pulling apart, now you can put in ur front seal with its metal plate use a bit of rubber grease on the hole where it goes over the push rod, now you can put in the grommet and one way valve,

Now to test which is hard unless you have a vacuum pump to see if it holds

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

More to come later

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

These parts are what needs replacing the part numbers are on them but if I have the old bits still I will put them up

 

 

Once you get all the new parts you will also need some rubber grease (sex lube will not work) and some silicone grease which is use on the seals.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

You can clean the bakerlite up lightly with some with some wet and dry and kerosene just make sure there is no big grooves where the seals run, to pull out the push rod from the bakerlite after you pull the diaphragms off u should see at least 3/4 of the way up to the top a clip or on top of the push rod you will see a c clip then the push rod will pull out.

 

The rear seal just knock the old one out making sure not to mark the case, now here is the part which is hard unless you have access to a lathe, you need to make up these tools to put the seals in with

 

 

 

Now like any seal make sure they go in flush and straight but one thing these are very brittle

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Here is a bit of a start will do some more tomorrow night this a real brain f#$k for me to try and explain then for me to just do it

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Rebuilding a brake booster is not a easy job lots of parts inside can break easy trust me broke a few over the yrs when doing my time in a brake shop.

 

The most common thing what goes in the boosters is the diaphragms

 

 

Now the one here is out of my xd van sp ot does have to of them and they look worse cause they tore getting them off.

 

Now first step to getting them apart is to mark the outer case of the booster so u know where the top half and bottom half need to line up,

 

You will need a press a plate to go in between the press for the booster to be held in using the bolts that hold it to the fire wall, a long flat bar with 3 holes in to go over the studs and the pin that goes into the master (needs to be long for leverage as top and bottom will be stuck together good) now depending on how thick the bar you have is you will a small bit of tube to go over the pin as it will poke through.

 

 

Put in the press with a bit of pressure but don't go overboard and then start turning the top half with the bar just watch you don't bend the studs to much if it doesn't move u can use a pair of vice grips to bend the peens on the bottom half a bit to let it move a bit easier

 

 

Now once you get it to turn and line the 2 bits up you can release the pressure off the press now don't go to quick as there is a spring in there not as strong as a brake chamber off a truck but will make shoot out if not careful.

 

Now this is how one will look when one has had brake fluid in it for a bit

 

 

Give it all a clean up with the sand blaster, now the main part to be careful with is the bakerlite guts

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

I get it all from the local brake shop I worked for yrs ago that still does the old school work unlike some of the new ones around

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Heya JCA.
While she is at it... can she put up some panelvan porn for us... l like the blue beast.... hehe.

I also may also need to rebuild my booster... but different model... later.
I take it rebuilding is straight forward but as always its all in the order and method.???
I'll read the tute anyway.

Jack.



Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Hey Jack not much has happened with the van been on the backseat while we built the daughters execl racecar.

What booster are you wanting to rebuild? It may take a bit of time doing a tutorial on doing the booster up but will get it up just have to find the time to sit and one up

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 
Put up that Booster rebuild tutorial you did, some yrs ago dude.

Lol will try to Dave will need to get my wife to help me as not real good with the wording of things she has wrote out most of my threads with me trying to tell her what I'm trying put out there lol

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk