jca25

Thankyou Thom for that information will be looking him up for sure


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You can do away with it all and use an e series distributor with a msd or ice ignition to control timing, or a modified crossflow distributor if you want a purely mechanical distributor, that's assuming you're going carb?

Hi guy's

So I'm pulling a au motor for the new race car build which is a bf, so I'm looking for options on getting rid of all the crap I don't need like smart lock, just need to run the computer for timing and ignition and that stuff.

So fire away on what I can do please

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Big blocks are cheap horsepower but heavy. Strokers get it done with much less weight but the bits are expensive, only the block basically remains, everything else is turfed for new bits

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I scored a crank spacer this morning you need this on a early internally balanced crank

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Do sell these blocks and cranks off much now

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would not buy from dellow again, look at quicktime metal ones alot better 

This is said fork they say to use with that bellhousing, now don't the Cleveland and Windsor use the same engine mounts?? So that would make the Windsor sit in the bay as the Cleveland, the crossflow the engine plates to the x member is different so not sure were u are going with measuring it, if need be may need to make ur own up to suit

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It’s currently cable now. Not sure there is a proper hydraulic conversion for this setup to be honest either.

Is there a reason u want to use clable over hydraulic or have I missed read something

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Are dellow still around?? That is the bellhousing I got in mine, yes it's not a Windsor or xf but they were great with the information at the time, from what I been told with the v8 t5 is yes input is longer but the rear housing was shorter to put the sticking same spot, like they did with the cortina using the single rail box's, as Ford wouldn't change the floor pan tooling just to suit v8 or 6 cylinder box's, one of the others guys would be able to correct if wrong.

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Awesome write up.
 
The jig Sparky fabricated freaked me out a bit and almost made me not try and disassemble but I thought I could get away without it... and it worked!
 
I sprayed wd40 around clamping surfaces, placed booster in a vice and tightened the two nuts, used clamp to stop the top flying away under spring pressure and then used a two foot crow bar to twist. Came away surprisingly easy. Cleaned and inspected all parts and other than a bit of rust she looks good. Ill still chase up with the experts about what I should replace since its apart. 
 
Still can't work out how to pull diaphragms off without damaging since they look OK but 
 
Ill post some photos .
 
Thanks for the write up Sparky!
 
 

thanks [mention=291]deankdx[/mention] and [mention=39]jca25[/mention]
 
I am trying to source the brake lines, brackets and t piece with bracket from an EF at the moment and will try to fit this to the xf. 
 
Also trying to get a video\photo of how it looks under ef\el,
 
I have the brake line adapter - imperial\metric adapter ready to go, so this will still play a role in this.
 
But I think this is the way to go.
 
Handbrake cable - I think I found a company that will help with tha, but ill need to share the fittings and the measurements. Ill sort that out later
 
Thanks again for all the suggestions, will share the final result when its done.

For me with the brakes which I did with my car, u are spending the time to do it do the finer details.

Pull the back brakes lines off a EF/EL including the t block which bolts to the floor, then drill the brackets that hold the flex hoses to the chassis off.

To make the the t block to work on ur xf half along the tunnel should be a joiner undo and take to a brake place and get to put the correct flare nut to go into the t block (sorry mind gone blank can't remember the number of nut), weld the flex hose brackets on then it's set up the same way as EF/EL in all of this aspect.

With handbrake cable, mine was setup with a wagon cable which was off a a bench seat wagon so it use a foot parkbrake so possible to use some parts from one of them and parts from a sedan together.

Also best part of using ford gear is when then checked my van for rego it all looks factory and it's not aftermarket stuff so they didn't want it engineered

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With the pedal box I would use the Auto pedal box and see if u can find a rare spares shop that has one these kits or maybe someone online and fit it

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The second batt in the car is a fews yrs old, but it already runs off a dcdc charging system and is only for my fridge it also has a solar system on it aswell.

The next batt is going into the tray of the ute will run a separate dcdc charging system but just don't feel like running a cable all the way to the main, was hoping i could just pick up off the mains cable for the first system, its is for running of lights air system and things like this for the track.

Also when we going racing away, our home track is 20 mins away but not worried about it it for when we travel 6hr to 10hrs for a meeting

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Ok guys i know its not falcon question but i putting a 3 battery in the ranger for Speedway and camping.

Know what I'm wanting to know is with the second charger instead running the power cable all the way to front can i just link it up to the power supply of the first charger system??

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Sounds interesting now Jack, it's not something i have seen or heard of being done myself, but anything can be done with some time and money oh and the will to do it, so can u tell us any more bout this idea now

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This could be interesting Jas.

Now i have to go backwards on a au race and run a ea ecu with a el dizzy, so this would in a sense be drama, will i end up with or not in ur knowledge?

Cheers Jason

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Wagon is the go then. You'll obviously have to swap gears out if going into a sedan.

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It's still in the car its a gli sedan, i was just being lazy and didn't want to drop the oil, a mate from speedway is looking for 3.23 for this weekend

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Hi guys trying to work out the ratio on this diff with out taking the hat off as the tag is long gone can any of you work out the sticker

Cheers Jason

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I use to have one in the shed but got rid of it in my last clean up as it would of never fitted the van being a manual but yea they are bigger

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Wow well that’s good news, I have contacted multiple company’s and could not get a straight answer.
 
I have also parted out lots of xd and xe’s v8 and 6cyl and never noticed a size difference. 
 
Looks like I’ll have no problems getting mine reco’d then hopefully lol

Xd and xe were the same in 6cyl and v8 the only ones i found were bigger was the fairlanes autos as the booster would cover were the clutch master is so u couldn't do a manual, i maybe wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if i am

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