jca25

Thanks might look at that spot again and it's on a clevo it's a show car that we are building so won't get driven in the rain a great deal is there anything else to keep a eye out for with them??

Keep the wiring short as and not to worried if it is seen, i was thinking that as a possibility

Yea they will work you can get them in a few sizes, i've used them on a few of the lock nuts

Yea i've used a few of them now and they work the treat

Need to get one of these sockets its to get rounded nuts and lost security nuts off

I know in the ba on wards the pumps had to use the right oil if not they had a whine (dex III is fine but will whine) but use the ford stuff for it and will go away, So just make sure the standard GM oil is up to the specs

dam i just hard wired mine in the van, with no relays

i tried the ef/l one only 2 bolts line up on the motor and the hole for the centre pin for the drive cog needs to be drilled out as it is larger

Hey stumps found this on facebook its through www.aussiespeed.com

Here is a bit of a rundown on the replacement of the heater core. It was done on an XD so could change slightly between models. I didn't take the photos when i pulled it apart so these are only when it was put back in. All the screws around the outside need to be undone. It is also stuck together with a sicaflex type glue. This is the inside of the heater box, there is normally an air con evaporator on the rhs but im not running air con any more so its been pulled out. The heater core just pulls out of the box The insulator rubber just slips off and on over the top Note the one pipe that has the curve in it. It needs to go to the top of the heater box when put back in. While you have it apart you might as well refoam the flaps. I used a 10mm square that i got from spotlight with a spray on glue When putting it all back together just use a bead of silicone to seal it

Its not as bad as every1 thinks main thing is take your time pulling the dash out and putting back in so you make sure you get all the bolts so you don't break any of the dash as they are getting harder to find in gc so they don't rattle

Beat me too it slo247, but try wats be said ^^^^^^ and i think it was bout 45 mins but some do take longer

Thanks hendrixhc just wasn't sure has i didn't want to put the false floor back in have all the inside done to find out i got to replace it, plus the sub box is going to be seating on it

What have yous guy done with the metal fuel line from the tank upgraded to a bigger one or kept with the stock one???

i do agree with the rest of the guy it was a ass to keep tuned and there was always a pair of pots that was running rich, but if you have the time to play with it a bit will be lots of fun but also lots of headaches

sort of had to make some of the holes off centre

thats sounds bout right for the carbs the cam was a crow this is the specs for it the next cam up is a racing cam 14650 - FALCON 250 XD CAM Specifications: Part no Adv. Duration 0.50“ Duration Valve Lift Lash Intake Lash Exhaust Lobe L/C 14650 Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust HYD HYD 292 292 230 230 .522” .522” 113

there old pics but shows how they have been cut, got none sorry of them on the head

thats how mine were done but the hard part was get them all set the same plus to do the leads you needed to take the first manifold off

could always do something like this sorry photo dont show alot but it was running 3 x 2L cortina webbers had three manifolds but needed the equalizer pipes in to make a better setup mite get around to doing it one day

instead of drilling the rivits out just undo the window track bolt at the bottom of door and pull out in one

I think the only way of doing it is to pull the mirrors off that way you dont bend the trim i just put mine in but i dont have any mirrors in yet and it was easy as to do but im sure if im wrong someone will correct me

the screen is glued in there is a wire in there if its never bn done before that you put 12v to and it heats it up make it easier to push out or you can use piano wire with to guys to cut it out

Plus 1 on what jack has said try this you wont always hear the vac leak on the booster