RuffXf

Ive already got all the peices. A while ago I'd bought some YT nonadjustable rockers. Buying adjustable ones probably would've been an easier though slightly dearer option.

Just need to know how far I can safely shim the pedestals instead of buying shorter rods. I also already have the shims. It's looking like needing at least 60thou

G'day all, I'm back onto the slow engine build. Now on the to do list is valve clearance.

I'm trying to reach the .150 inches recommended in my factory XD book with shims. I do not wish to change rods as the ones I have are heavy duty for tougher springs. What would the experts here say is the maximum amount i can safely shim the rockers by?

Gday folks, another small query about my crossflow build. I want to get this part bloody right, it’s the last thing I want going wrong.

I’m up to the oil pump and pickup. The pickup I’m using was on a very tired engine and the screen has collapsed likely because it’s been blocked at some stage. Is it good to use as is, is there a way to get it back out and stay there or has someone found a place to get one brand new?

On 7/16/2019 at 7:21 AM, ando76 said:

I modify the sexy ally proflow clevo pulleys and older xf non air con water pumps to give way more fan clearance.

But for a budget option slicing the threads off is no problem. You will find that the shaft material is very hard. Take it slow or cool the shaft with compressed air as you cut it to avoid damaging the pump seal.




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Reviving an old topic here, having a bit of clearance trouble. I’ve already cut the thread off my pump. 

Will a non ac pump give me more clearance again? And will a standard pulley work as an alternative to the clevo one mentioned

Thanks fellas, still learning the finer details of these engines. Only real concern was a blocked oil gallery, but there ya go. Ford again sticking with what they knew worked

Gday folks just got my crossflow block from the machine shop and I had them put the cam bearings in while it was there. When looking it over today I noticed the front bearing had two oil gallery holes in it, one lining up with the hole leading to the crank, the other faces the top of the block and does not line up with anything

Have they put it in wrong or have I just got a strange bearing?

12 hours ago, matt_lamb_160 said:

This is a bit old now, but I run that Camtech cam in a turbo'ed 250 and ran it NA for a while. It is a perfect HWY cam with 2.92 or 2.77 gears and can be used with an auto and stock converter. It suits an otherwise stock setup. Std springs are even ok. I recon Camtech's cam below this one should have been std. Both are perfect for how Ford planned for a 250 to be driven and are nice for cruising around.

 

With a 5 speed and 3.23 gears I probably would go bigger (depending on what the car is used for) than the 208 cam, but no more than the 218 deg cam if it is a regular driver. The 14892 Crow used to be the go to cam.

The cars probably going to end up as a daily to take some Ks off the other car so easily drivable and not an absolute fuel guzzler was what I had in mind. It’s not intended as a performance build, it’s replacing the flogged out current engine. so I’m not to worried if I should’ve gone .500+

I ended up sticking with the camtech .477 208deg cam. Haven’t finished the build yet but I’m happy with what I’ve decided on. My brothers bought a 14892 so it’ll be interesting to compare the two when we’re done.

9 hours ago, gerg said:

Springs: stock ones barely test at 80 pounds on the seat. The next step up would be around 110 which would be more than adequate for a warm street engine.

I’m looking at a set of 120lb springs with dampeners. I’m assuming a standard valve train can handle that?

Gerg, deankdx, you’ve both bought up my main concern. I was worried I’d spend more than I’d saved to run that cam

After a quick bit browsing and bit of adding up it looks like I’d only be saving a few hundred on the valve train and still have a lot of unknowns. Much safer to buy aftermarket

What’s everyone’s opinion on Camtech? I reckon I’ve found a cam that suits what I want. 208/208 @ .050” with 110LSA and .477” lift. I’m running a 5 speed with a 3.23 diff so id be cruising right in the middle if it’s rev range

Gday all I’ve had a mate give me a cam for a crossflow I’m planning to build. Only problem is it is a reground factory cam so I have no idea how much I need to do to run it. I haven’t a huge amount of knowledge in engine building and this is my first build

Valve lift is about .500 and duration seems to be left standard. What will this do for my torque and power and will solid lifters and roller rockers get the job done?