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MUZWOG79

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Posts posted by MUZWOG79

  3. Posted

    On 11/12/2018 at 9:02 PM, gerg said:


     

     


    OK some dissection of your plan:

    "port & polish" - just port, not polish. Polishing is a waste of time and has a negative effect on fuel atomisation and air velocity.

    "zero deck block" - good move

    "40 thou piston" - only if it needs it. Boring gives a negligible increase in displacement and power, so just go the absolute minimum to clean up the wear.

    "crow 14892" - might be a tad small for what you want. I would go a size or two up.

    14770 - 214/224 510"/514", 111LSA
    14550S - 219/223 510"/510" 106LSA (speedway cam, a bit cranky)
    14686 - 224/224 507"/507" 108LSA (also cranky)

    But the one you quoted might feel a bit wheezy on the track.

    "stronger valve springs" yep good move. Go at least 115lb on the seat, high 200s on the nose. I got Crane Blue Racers pretty cheap. If you want the motor to live a long, happy life, invest in some good roller rockers. The stock rockers (with stiffer springs) will burn through your oil, wear out quicker and put stress on your valve stems.

    "Megasquirt ECU" - can't comment on that one but they must be OK if they're still in business.

    Now some more to add:

    Get it balanced (pistons, rods). Invest in a good harmonic balancer. These engines don't like RPM with an untouched bottom end.

    When determining how much comp you need, focus on dynamic compression ratio, not static. This means that you select your compression ratio based on how the cam works in relation to the piston position. There are online calculators that help you with this. On an alloy head, aim for about 8.5:1 dynamic. You need to know the engine parameters to input though, which will require other calculators to find.

    This is a good site:

    http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

    Be careful when shaving the head/block to zero deck the pistons. Your pushrod length will be affected.

    A lighter flywheel does wonders for engine response and fast gearchanges. An 8kg zero balance 157 tooth Windsor one will bolt on.

    The stock EFI bananas can start to get restrictive with only small increases in power. EA-ED logs are a good conversion, this also swaps intake piping to the cold side of the engine. If done right, the setup can look like it was made to be there.

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
     

     

    Hi Guys

    Im new to the group, and I was doing some research as I'm planning on building a motor for my XF Ghia, and i stumbled on this thread.

    This is some great information and exactly what I was looking for.

     

    Do you have any idea what sort of power figures you would expect for the above mentioned build?

    I was thinking of going a hydraulic roller cam and lifters set up, as I have heard you can get some good gains and better life out of the motor. Can anyone recommend a good (reasonably priced) roller cam and lifter combo that would be suitable for an EFI crossflow with an E2 alloy head?

     

    Also, if I zero deck my block, will i need to change the crank size and rod length, or would the stock bottom end still work?

    Any advice will be greatly appreciated as this is my first attempt at an engine build.

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