Butcha

I guess grab a compression tester or leakdown tester an do a dry vs wet test (squirt a bit of oil down the hole) and go from there. maybe get a camera and have a looke at the back of the valves and see if they are gummed up.

Oil can be drawn in on intake due to vacume at idle and part throttle... oil getting through exhaust usually only leaves a puff of smoke on startup. 1 liter of oil every 1000km is heaps though pour 1 litre on the ground and see. That sort of consumption I would have yhought comes from the rings. Plugs would be very gummed up either way

I've run them and never had an issue with that. I have found the umbrella seals go hard with some synthetic oils. Worn out guides maybe but glazed bores and a blocked pcv not letting blowby out will cause the same thing. Tbh I dont think oil consumption is due to oil getting past the valves.

Setting up is easy enough buy an e85 carby run fuel lines and buy a fuel pump that is compatible with alcohol. It uses about an extra 30% more than petrol.. Keeping a carby tuned on pump e85 is a different story. Alcohol evaporates and maybe different blends season to season youd be forever changing jets. E85 is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs water over time and corrodes alluminium. Even ate the nickel plating off my fuel bowl screws. Less hassel running efi. Imo.

Imo it doesnt matter where you put it.. put it in. I had mine mounted in a remote filter before the cooler but it is all relative if the oil is excessively hot something is not right in the engine. Oil temp is the biggest indicator if engine internals are happy. In my case an issue with bearing cap alignment on a scat rod caused me to peg a 280f oil temp gauge yet engine temp was only 170f.

Be a 3 to 7k rpm type cam would go nice in a 393 with 12:1 ally heads

Perfect weekender how much

I think you have your wires a litte crossed mate. By my maths a 302 head closed chamber head (around 58cc) 4.1 hole gasket with .04 crush with flat top .03 over pistons with only intake valve relief of 3cc zero decked comes to 12.1 which is fine if you running decent cam and alloy heads. Leave the piston .01 below the deck brings it down to 11.19 which doable with iron head. 351 2v closed chamber was around 64cc and open chamber 4v varied from 68 to 76cc from memory.

Common 351 combinations 351 with 5.77" rods piston 1.678 pin height (stock) 351 with 6"(302 length rods) rods with 1.456 pin height piston. I am building a 14:1 engine for speedway with this combo using chev rods. 351 with chev 6.125" rod 1.331 pin height. This piston is also used in 393 strokers with 6" piston. 351 with chev 6.2" piston with 1.256 pin height. Ls1 have these pistons. Make a good screamer 8000 rpm engine these. Can get all these pistons in dish flat or dome. Speedshops , rocket, performace wholesale, vpw can get them, summit racing or jegs in america are good too

Compression ratio plays big part in how doughy a cam is down low. The extra cubes will bring cam operating range down a few hundred rpm. Get your headflow, timing and compression right and grandma will still take it to bingo no worries

Damnd if you do slow if you dont. The sport would never evolve and stagnate if people dont push the boundaries.

Theres alot of "he has to be cheating because im cheating and he beat me" attitude in the sport.

Actually just re-read your first comment you said that everything is covered in fuel under the air cleaner..few things come to mind either fuel is coming out the vent tube, car is backfiring up the carby which is timing related or you have major reversion caused by leaking valves or a valve that has started to push through the collets can normally feel it if you put your hand over the carby while giving it a rev or can see the mist come back up. Also look down the throats at idle and make sure the boosters are not dripping (float or needle and seat).

Check your timing retarded timing can makes fumes stink and car hard to start. Check ignition leads and coil are in good nick and the coil is recieving full 12v. Chuck on some new spark plugs. Check you have no vacume leaks and all the hoses are good. Disconnect bake booster hose an block it off see if it makes a difference.

Got the tongues waggin ey. Lol.

What sort of carby is it mate?

Give the 3.08s a go even 2.92 if you have the 6cyd 4 speed. It will give a calmer and more consistant race. I have always preferred to run to 5.4 to 5.6 on radials. He wont know unless he gives it a go. Too many people run too high in the rev range and the car has nothing left to pull down at the end of the straights which is what you need if you want to pass on the highline.

I havent brought a holley for awhile maybe they got a new box of tricks. Actually I bet the new carbs run pv in the rear now... Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

A 4.5 or 5.5 pv might be better suited. Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

You might need to change your pump squirter cam to a more aggressive lobe otherwise try bigger squirters. Make sure that your accelerator pump is properly adusted try backing it off until there is no play. Remembering that the bigger difference you have from the idle vacum to the pv size the more fuel it needs from the accl pump it needs until the transition takes place. I wouldnt square jet unless you want to throw out your fuel economy the pv circuit adds roughly 10 to the jet size when in action (full throttle) hence the staggered jetting. Under full load it is essentially square jetting. Just my 2 bob iv picked up over the years Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Cam ramp rate plays a big part in spring pressure...

Yep that sounds right. What's the problems<br /><br />

http://pavtek.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=104:393-cleveland-silver-acc-hr-545-hp-alloy-heads-hyd-roller-cam&catid=36:ford-short-engines&Itemid=143 around 14k gets you 550hp, ready to ship dunno how good they are as i have only ordered their stud girdle and alloy timing cover. personally i like to do my own stuff but each to their own.

Same cept in xf and 2" alloy spacer. Sent from my XT925 using Tapatalk 2

Get a shorter screw?, if the disc is moving enough to shear studs, should be checking wheel nuts cause the wheel is loose. Any disc I've seen was a firm fit over the axle hub and can't move once wheel is bolted down.