Butcha

Had a little squiz of the tune side of things an holy shit. Cool stuff but is there really a need for a 16x16 timing table?!? just lock the bastard at 30. To be honest Mixalis i think someone could run this setup on E85 no problems and the only thing i would do different if it was on e85 is remove one of them bosch 044's. I will probably target air fuel and timing like the two tables below. Way out of my ball park so if youse have any input id love to hear it Timing Afr As for the extra spray nozzle, i think i will run it to be on the safe side. The issue i see is that with the injectors at the port right shooting right at the valve it does not have much time at 5 to 6k rpm to remove latent heat from the air and there is no way of measuring temperature of air past there. The only way i will know that it is too hot is when a hole magically appears in the middle of the piston. To simplify the system i will just run a tee off my fuel pressure guage hose which is a -4 to a fuel solenoid (nos) to the nozzle which has jets in it. Will Prob start with a .035 jet and just keep an eye on logs and see how they go and up the jets as needed. Water would prob remove more heat in the chamber but then i'd need another tank ect etc these god damn fittings are costing enough as it is. If it was a carbd system or a Mechanical Fuel injected or had staged fuel injectors further away from the cylinder then no it would not be needed but being so close to the cylinder it will be a bit of a gamble i think. To simplify think i will have it turn on above 3500 rpm. To my Knowlege...Methanol is very resistant to detonation BUT very prone to Preignition two totally different things. An engine that has failed due to detonation usually has cracked pistons, burnt pistons at the edge near the bore and maybe hammered bearings. Engine failure due to preignition will almost always be a hole in the middle of the piston. Usually comes from sparkplug glowing red igniting the fuel. Pre-ignition can lead to detonation though. If i can keep the chamber temps down it should live. Maybe.

another unproductive day. Gotthe fuel system bolted in still need some 90 degree fittings to finish this off. Dunno where im gunna put me shoppin now. Once I run the lines to the fuel rail and cut my electrical cable to legnth the engine can go back on the stand and finish the wastgate to dump pipe and weld in egt and ego bungs. Can be stripped and cleaned for assembly then.

Cheers ill chase one down from the wreckers. the manifold I got is off a fairlane if it makes a difference. It is open ciruit thoughout its movement.

Didnt get too much done today ended up Fittin a snorkel to a ranger. Anyone know if a TPS off an ed-el fit on the xf throttlebody? The one I got is rooted

Sat the engine in the car and made a 3" dump pipe. Finished off some hoses. Hopefully ill get the fuel system plumbed in and electrics done tomorra

Summit racing stuffs pretty goo cheap had one fitting -10 come with no thread tapped. For $4 ill forgive. Their push lock hose has stood up well to the meth and e85 I run but has gone a bit hard now but that is norm for meth. Got most of me fuel stuff. Top goes back to tank and middle is return from reg. See how it goes gotta find room to mount the mongrel now Intake pipes are done need to tidy things up a bit but you get the idea. Wastegate is on also.

Interesting..I have had quite a few people tell me extreame tops are no good air comming from the top disrupts air comming from the sides causing turbulance reducing flow or messes with the booster something like that. True??

Jic an dash all the same eh?.

How much you gunna run ando

Fair bit of work to do. Will try and sit the engine back in the car rewire it. Mount ecu, ice ign and voltage booster in waterproof box. Install fuel system and plumb it up, make up dump pipe weld in 02, egt sensor and weld in bungs for pan evac system, rebuild power steering pump. Finish making hoses for oil and water to turbo. Install bungs for oil temp sensors in sump. Change fuel pressure gauge install boost gauge. Hopefully bearings rings and cam will come next week and I can assemble engine. Still need to add a few components to me megasquirt to customise it my inputs... Think I need some beer for the weekend.

It is in the back of my mind ando and I should prob be running a -10 up to fuel rail as well but I will use what I have and workout shortcomming later. The existing setup supplied my v8 950 meth carby singing to 7800 with no pressure drop I could see. how that translates to this efi setup ill find out I guess. From a safety standpoint I have a pressure sensor on the fuel rail which I can log in the ecu so I can see if supply is inadequate. Also can set in the ecu that if o2 goes lean for a set time then kick in rev limiter maybe 3k rpm to save engine. Just to add the v8 setup with aeromotive pump filled 20 liters in 2 min 30 secs @ 9psi 12.5 volts. (it will flow a little more at 13.8v) which tranlsates to 480lph. This was measured at fuel tank using the return line into a jerry.

I am using stock fuel rail but have cut off welded up the two pin holes they use for intake and return and welded 2 -8 fittings on either end. Car has -8 supply and return lines to a 90 liter fuel cell. I based the calculations around 600 hp bosh 044 are reportedly rated for flow at 300lph @43psi... I need 600lph soo.. I have brought new proflow checkvalves -8 to go onto the ends then two -8 into a -8 fuel line. I have only found meth to be corrosive if left to sit and it absorbs moisture. I normally flush the fuel system and carb after every meet. Cool thing with efi though I can flick a switch and voila it changes fuel table and should run on petrol.

Dunno bout the muffler ando ill put it up to vote straight dump on the ground a 3" stainless hotdog, 3"steel glasspack hotdog or lukey 3" straight through is what I have in the shed. Rules stipulate it must go past the drivers seat. The real question though... screamer pipe(vent wastegate to atmosphere) or no? (Plumb it back into the exhaust)

Trouble is rob with port induction there is no way to measure intake temps.. they will be reading in excess of 120 degrees c.. is there enough vaporisation with port injection? Id rather not turn me pistons into liquid. ill have an egt as well as intake temp coolant temp, fuel pressure and oil pressure for data logging. So it will be interesting to see what they are doing mid race.

Woo cheap kit...

Ando I agree with you to to an extent but going to a 6.4 down to 5.8 a huge step. My $100 says its too far and he wont have the hp to turn it I only mention wheel speed as a point to illustrate the gearing difference.

Woo ease up there a bit ando these fellas dont run an 8" race tyre lol. Be cautious about taking too much gear out of it as it will increase wheelspin specially after the watercarts been out. You will find to a point he will still hit the same revs. Next step down in diff gear is 3.08 which will increase wheelspeed 6kmh at the same revs. Its not much but it makes a big difference in how it pulls. I agree he is peaking a little too soon but he is almost there. Go too far the other way and he will suffer coming out of the corner. Assuming a 225 tyre wheel speed is with 3.23 is appox 114kmh a 3.08 will give you 120kmh and a 2.92 is 126kmh and 133kmh with 5.5. Watch the revs drop on corner exit each time you go down in gear those revs will drop exponentially. Especially if it falls below pk torque point. My 2 bobs anyways. Sorry clevo im bored waitin for me plane out

Long story..I have had a problem previously with a head on my speedway engine where the valves stop sealing due to valve seat movement and when I got the machinist to put new seats in and after drilling out the seats he rang me and said bin it cause theres big crack behind the seats which spread from intake and exhaust. Fast forward a bit and recently I removed a c2 head cause of no cyld pressure and found 3 bent intake valves (reason unknown) however I put a good valve in and lapped it and it came up ok so I guess the seat hasnt moved but I can see a hairline going between intake an exhaust on 3 cylders (2 are different cyld with the bent valve) so im guessing its cracked behind the seat as well. Is this a common thing? Would it simply be just a matter of tig welding the cracks recutting and pressing in a new seat? Or just bin it and find another one.

The engine was built about 8 years ago with 200 rods and flatops with a c2 head on petrol the deck has also been oringed. The machinist knocked the tops off the piston so the engine ran on petrol but was a little too enthusiastic I think. Acl race series pistons with only static balance. Crow hydrualic cam cant remember specs but turns to bit over 6 down the straights and spins up to 68 when you kick it into a corner. Standard valves with steel retainers for dual springs. Dont want to spend a heap on the engine just after easy hp. Snapped a rod in the v8 whist I was grabbing the flag for my victory lap last year. Short engine Has since been repaired and is on the shed floor awaiting top en assembly but I want to put it in me street xe if I ever finish it.

Current engine has pistons .100 " down the bore with a c1 head (50cc) which gives me 9.6:1 not real flash runs ok on methanol tho. I figure .060" off will give me maybe 36cc on c2 head¿ around 12.5:1 compression.. gotta be worth a bit eh? Would certainly get the car off the line a bit quicker.

Cheers fellas thought I was a bit hard on the gear. Was going to send that head off to get .060 or so off it slap som valves in it and put it back on for a bit of cheap hp for me spare engine.

Oh the above would run e85 or petrol its all in the tune

My plans were originally to use a throttlebody efi system such as yay http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/ez-efir-style-precision-cast-throttle-body-and-injector-assemblyhtml/ A $400 megasquirt kit some afr sensors etc run in batch fire so no crank or cam signal just run off distributor?? Never investigated furthur. Holley inline efi fuel pump (will also do carby with the right regulator, or efi to 60psi 700horsepower). Like yay http://www.holley.com/12-700.asp Aeromotive boost reference reg (it comes with two springs one for carb that will do 2 to 12psi an another to do efi 30 to 70 psi. Run bigger fuel line and a return line. Stage one done fuel system done then save bit more then do the turbo. Blow through carb will cost about the same I think a may be a bit more finiky? I dont know.

Eh cost vs consequence. $55 for head bolts vs $55 headbolts+$70 gasket+3 hours.. Ive reused the headbolts in me roundy round car 4x without consequence so.. http://

Mate I reackon its a massive misconception people have that e85 or even methanol "needs" xxx amount of compression. I have found E85 and methanol will run perfectly fine on 9:1 as my 250 xflow on methanol in my speedway car is currently. The key thing is those fuels can "TAKE" up to more than 13:1 on e85 and more than 16:1on methanol like sprint cars do due to the cooling properties of the alcohol content. It will run fine in a street car you are just not taking advantage of what the fuel can do. Btw e85 works as an awesome intercooler rig up a nos solenoid with a fine nozzle on your intake pipes wire it into a temp sensor or switch on throttle position... The lower your static compression the more boost you can wind in. I have always dreamed about builing a 900hp twin turbo injected cleveland but have already built a 600+ hp n/a 393 for my street car.. one day hey good luck with your build.