Butcha

managed to fix the photo's a short list of things to do before next meet. aside from re-assembling the engine - Install engine oil cooler with fan, needs to be boxed in and have good flow- hopefully oil pressure wont suffer too much. - Install a nozzle before the turbo to inject methanol, will plumb it off the regulator and have a solenoid of some description switching on/off. Should keep me turbo a bit cooler, make it more efficient and bring intakes temps down which should help the engine live? - Rewire most of the car. I am having big volt drop issues with everything running so i will relocate some relays and run new feeds. - Get a bigger alternator and make it fit. Im thinking perhaps an el/ef unit, will prob have to slow it down more. according to datalogs battery voltage is getting down to 11.9 which the fuelpumps are really struggling. I am also going to wire the ECU so it is on all the time so that it can keep the fans and waterpump going in case i have to shut it down due to fire ect. only have one switch to kill the ignition, ecu does the rest. - Piss of the worm drive hose clamps and go bolt clamp style it popped a radiator hose which resulted in spectacularly blowing the head gaskets. - Make up an aluminium sheild over the intake manifold/turbo to sheild everything from the heat and stop oil fires. - Fit a Pan Evac system to act as a vacum pump to stop blowing valve cover gaskets. It worked well on my v8 so should be good on this. - Fuel hose needs to be replaced. Methanol has deterioated it badly and its starting to split. - Install a lower diff ratio. - I got a little kick up the arse first race so i'll have to jack out my rear barwork so the boot sits flat again. If i get time i will wire the speedo sensor into the ecu and install a prox sensor on the front right wheel. Be pretty cool to see how fast i am actually going and how much wheelspin i have. Theres a video of the 3rd heat around somewhere i'll see if i can find it and put it up.

Yeah this happened.. Which resulted in.. Have stripped her down to give her a bath. Everthing looks good no scuff marks or otherwise. Need to find the older style gaskets, at least they dont put graphite shit through the engine. What head studs do i need to get? Dont think head bolts are gonna cut it.

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Hey haven't updated this for awhile bit rude I Know. Had the first race with the engine last night with mixed results. First heat It was running way too lean for my liking so I just had a play passed a few people then backed off for a bit and went again from 10th I finished 5th or around there. Second heat fattened up the fuel table and started the car to grid up and it stalled straight up battery shit itself, in the process it messed up the ecu and was not detecting spark so had to wind some pots back and forth, swapped the battery out and she fired up ok for the 3rd heat. 3rd heat Started P1 finished p1. Woo this thing had some kick!! The valve cover gasket blew out the side causing a little smoke towards the end and caused a fire when I pull up in the pits. turbo Housing was glowing cherry red. Pushed the gasket back in and did a few minor things to the car and went out of the feature P4. I got a reasonable start passed P2 and started to chase down the leader but on the 3rd lap a bright red glow came from the bonnet... the turbo oil feed line (brand new double braided line) ruptured for no damn reason causing a nice big fire. No major damage just white shit everywhere from extinguisher. Have attached a screenshot of the datalogs from the start of the 3rd heat about 3 or 4 laps worth. Its still way to lean at the part throttle bits but thats easy fixed. Things i need to sort before next meet - oil temps are hitting 280+ need to put oil cooler cooler in to bring them down a bit - Coolant temps are a bit high, richening it up a bit should help. bringin oil temp down should help more - Need a bigger alternator, its keeping a satisfactory charge but not at High RPM el/ef 100amper should do it, slow it down a bit wont hurt. - Need to stop this freakin valvecover gasket blowing out on the right side. - Fatten the tune a bit more. - cool the intake temps down a bit 111 sounds bit high. A jet squirtin methanol/water into the intake should suffice. Other considerations -I need to drop my diff ratio down a bit I am running out of legs down the straight and its hurting my corner entry speed a bit. By legs i mean the shift light is blinding me and im lifting the pedal (6500rpm set 7000rpm fuel cut). It by no means runs out of power there. -Seems the 44mm waste gate isnt big enough as it is set on its minimum setting of 8psi yet it gets up to 14 psi before things get hot. not complaining though Other than that I'm happy as pig in shit on how it went on its first night out

No worries ando im still having fuel pressure issues anyways has to be this regulator, flow testing the twin bosch 044s by removing the return to the surge tank i am getting almost 600 liters per hour @50psi (fills 20lt drum in 2 mins) which by my maths plenty to support 600hp on meth.Yet I fire up the car and give it a little rev the fuel pressure drops?? 10-15psi even if I load it up. Strange stuff.. ill get a new reg and go from there. Also did current test and the pump feeding surge tank is 1.8 amps bosch 1 is 10.3 and bosch 3 is 9.8...

When n where ando can do monday otherwise ill hafta flush the meth out and tee up in a few weeks

Manage to ream the seat of regulator and got it to seal. A bit of shit musta got into me fuel gauge cuz it read 0 pressure even though the car started. I cleaned it out and fuel system is sweet now. Starts and runs sweet even though it is rich as shit. Methanol is awesome like that. Heres A shitty video for your viewing pleasure. The yellow line if you can barely make out is afr. its pretty cool though as you lean out the cells and bring it close to stoich it cleans up a bit and picks up a coupla hundred rpm. Now gotta get this puppy onto a dyno or track to tune her up a bit.

Just pulled reg out n bench tested an shes stuffed the return doesnt seal as meth has eaten the sealing surface. No it is a standalone ecu.

Was in a rush last meet to get the engine together and when I finally got it right the cam dialed in +4 so I thought she be right more power down low and ran it. I guessing being a 113 lobe it was really flat up top and ran outta puff at 5500. Had aplay with it last time it was home moved it over a cog and it came in at -1 using both lift @tdc and icl method. Im told 1 degree =100 rpm? Should put it at 6k now which should be a bit better . Got home a day late this swing due to storms in perth on wed night, got in from perth 930 friday and worked on getting the turbo stuff fitted til 3am. Cuplahours kip and back into it but tonights meeting was cancelled due to rain. Bugger. Having fuel pressure issues at the moment cant keep a stable 45psi. One minute its 40 then 20 then 80 all over the shop mongrel thing everything else has gone to plan. She fired straight up on first crank though and runs awesome considering it was running a lambda of .7 Woo! Eyes burnin a bit tho.

Class only at north qld cairns to rockhampton. Its a lot more varied 4 and 6s are unrestricted can go to town on em if you want. 8s are limeted to NA single 4 barrel and 360 cubes easy enough to get 600hp out of em these days though.

Dont miss the days of pre steering quickener made for some tricky situations when the helmet clogged up mid corner. Electric pump out of the question n just cut the belt?

Heat 1 2

Raced in cairns last night with methanol carby. Car went well never laid a spanner on it all night, handled the rough stuff beautifully. Only had to tip 60 liters of methanol in her. Oh And screw my gearstick back in. Only issue was the cam was over and done 500rpm too early. I think if I retard it a coupla clicks it will go well. Now if I can get me arse off the couch I got some extras to bolt on for next meeting

Good luck with tomorrow dont push yourself man speedway can wait.

Cheers doug ill keep him in mind. I normally run redline fuel lube anyways and It doesnt seem to leave sticky residue so It might be alright. Engine just about ready to go in the hole once flexplate, clutch, bellhousing and starter go on. Run the cam in this arvo hopefully.

Got baby sittin duties today but ill see if I can sneek up and bring it back a cog and see where cam dials in at centerline. Cheers ando.

Ok bottom ends assembled had first time dialing in a cam an aint successful yet. Put the cam in lined the dots up crank keyway was 1 notch back from dot from last cam.. bang rods hit the cam. Ok advance the crank gear 1 keyway (keyway lines up with dot) the rods are very close to cam. but I get little lift at tdc.. ok advance the keyway 1 more the rods pass throgh the center of the notch fair enough but I only get .026 lift at tdc. Advance the keyway 1 more and rods hit the cam... so there really is only one spot the crank keyway can go. the cam specs .086 lift at tdc but I am not sure if this is at valve or lifter. Even if It was at valve its .049 at lifter still well short. Might hafter give camtech a ring tomorra unless someone can see where I screwed up?.

Can you pm the details? I can pick it up next time im home?

Another pic for the hell of it showing the o ringed block. The piston on right was drinkin water the last time the engine raced (couldnt figure out why it was off song all night). Shows how water injection can "steam clean" the engine.

Hey ando still kicking not alot has been happenin spent a week n a half on fraser island, back at work for a week an just came back from another campin trip on the herbert river. I go back to WA for work tomora and return the following friday so I will hook back into it then. Back on topic engine needs to be stripped down, washed ready for assembly. Just gonna give it some new rings n bearings after 10 years of on and off service the main bearings were still good but rods showed a little wear and the rings have opened up 8 thou and had a 20% variance in cylinder pressure. Piston skirts still look good. Rod beaing upper Lower Mains New cam lifters n springs are here was just going to use the original hydraulic cam but some of the lobes and lifters started pitting and showing wear marks. The 106 lobe separation isnt ideal for turbo stuff either. so a new solid camtech cam on 113 lobes with rpm range of 3 - 6k rpm should give a nice broad hit. I have half the wiring loom made just need to finish the box off fit some gauges etc. hopefully next itme im home I will get some noise out of her. Still trying to chase down an alloy valve cover if anyone knows where on is in the cairns area.

Hobbs switch old school... The numbers in the middle are pump duty cycle

Will prob start wiring today, how wire the injectors into two banks? 135 and 246? 123 456? Doesnt matter?

I think I will run it as it is to get it going other wise itll sit in the shed and the year will be over before it sees sunshine. Plus this thing starting to burn a little too much coin. I did plan to have it ready for the next meeting but this is getting more and more unlikely. Wouldnt the distributon be a non problem as the fuel is injected to the port, nowhere for the fuel to shear or fall out of suspension? I think liquid intercooling will be sufficient afrs will be on the richside. Whats a little more fuel. Not really concerned where that fuel goes just as long as the air going to the cylinder is sensible temp. The datalogs will show if im wrong I guess. Xpt to be honest I dont know what the boost will be doing during a race particularly a wet track which we get to damn often where you are floating across the track with no traction. Maybe airtemp and rpm switch be a more sensible option.