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Posts posted by xr6tjet
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Hi guys,
Has anybody successfully turbo'd an XE EFI with the early efi bosch jetronic? I have heard with a fuel reg and plumbing in the afm into the cooler piping some people have got them to run low boost. Would like to hear experience, wouldn't mind running some really low boost setup on my XE for giggles.
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I've got a barra powered AU so for me it's nothing new. But I have a love for the old 250, I would like to see if I could modernise the EFI arrangement. That's why I was thinking EFI with an EA ecu.
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Barra is an option, but Id like to keep the matching number engine in use. A cammed crossflow sounds awesome I am stoked with my XF.
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Hi guys,
Looking to put a bit of muscle in my XE EFI which currently is a bog stock 110xxx motor runs perfect. I would like to put a decent sized cam in it and upgrade the EFI setup and ditch the AFM.
What sort of mods have people done in terms of ECU with room to upgrade? I have heard running an EA/EA2 ECU is an easy upgrade for these and you can run the maf sensor then and you have tuning capabilities for a big CAM etc. Any feedback would be awesome!
Regards, Alex.
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I've heard of the dry ice but under the car I think this would be a mission and a half ! I'm going to stick with cleaning it up with the wire brush and cleaners I don't need to take it off just want to give it a freshen up
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14 hours ago, 2redrovers said:99% of the under body deadener used by any manufacturer is bitumen based. So bit of solvent, some tar, rubber compounds left over from tyres probably.. That kind of thing. No fibrous material because it's sprayed on mostly.
Watch the internal yellow fibre kind like on the firewall, heater, roof etc. Mostly fibreglass but could be more than that.Thanks for your reply mate, that is good to know. I wear the 3m mask anyway just wanted to be sure it didn't contain any of it. Its got that much dirt on it I'm wire brushing it all to break it up.
2redrovers reacted to this -
Hi guys,
Wearing a 3m mask when I remove/clean the underbody deadener on my XE project. Just wondering whether there is asbestos in the deadener at all? Couldn't find much info on it. More for curiosity.
Regards, Alex.
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Sill repairs look top notch glad that is sorted!!
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Love the esky mate, I even like it with these wheels. Hope you get those sill repairs sorted!
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I wouldn't touch this car it just looks awesome how it is bone stock!! Cool find indeed.
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They are significantly bigger than regular bump stops on the old x series, and these only have one sided drilled to press and attach the bump stop over a metal knob on the BA. I'm pretty sure you can still get regular ones from nolthane to suit x series?
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Either go to the wreckers and grab some off cars already or grab these which are the rarespares ones.
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I have these on my AU, for the fronts to go lower the golden ring must be screwed down. There should be quite a bit of height adjustment on them I would hope =/
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Buy a heat gun, it is a good investment. I ended up having to do a similar job and had to go out and buy one. Am surprised at exactly how much I have used the heat gun since then!
Mr Polson and Nath reacted to this -
Lower control arms, sway bar brackets need to be mounted with extra holes drilled in the chasis rail (they are already filled with hex holts on the series 1), uprights and new sway bar. Should be right to go at that point. I would be making sure you are running braided lines as well.
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Lots of good advice here! I would use a very light sanding block made out of rubber to cut it back with the sandpaper.
Don't be scared once you start cutting into the paint with 1500 or 2000 and it starts to come matt, that's good. Any low spots will be shiney so that is the areas you want to attend to the most to get that mirror finish. White is very very easy to work with! Did you use a base coat and a clear or a full white gloss coat?
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Meguiars ultimate compound will do the job however I would be sanding it with 1500-2000grit first. This scholl stuff is tonnes better tho.
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Go on waxit.com.au and order the new Scholl S20 formula. It is new amazing stuff, I have recently tested it on my cars and started using it. Use the recommended pads and you will get a really high gloss finish. Invest in a rotary or orbital buffer.
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Are the vacuum ports on the switch marked "V" "M" and "A"..?
If so, then they correspond to the V M A marks on the switch in the diagram.
Can't see what you mean by the V M A on the image you have posted, there is no "M" and "A". Can you explain please!
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See my link above.
I did however I can't work out which plug is which on the actual switch. There are 3 vacuum ports.
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Anyone have a diagram on how the vent open/close vacuum switch lines go to it are?
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This stuff made by Ben at trimmaster is an exact replica 3m tape he had made up. You won't beat the quality! Wheel arch moulding is more for XE/XF
LTD083 reacted to this -
All the pumps when you take it out you can modify a fuel pump to fit in there. Lucky for you they are much easier to modify. On my AU I had to cut the pump housing to fit the walbro 255.
Campo reacted to this -
Ill probably be able to post them. Let me take them out over the weekend and check the condition. Ill keep in touch. Cheers, Alex.
Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)
in Cortys and Eskys
Posted
Sanding looks okay id say the finishing polishing method you are using is not sufficient enough to bring out the shine. Need to get a few different grade polishes and pads then finish with a wool pad with purple polish.