xr6tjet

Awesome. This thread should help out a lot of other members who probably have run into the same problem!

Images are really useful as i had the impression they were all the same!

Cool guys i figured they would be from a ute but i didnt have any evidence to support me. Ill list them as xg or xh ute on ebay if they dont sell here. Im going to list them for sale as i cant use them. Should make a thread tommorow im slowly downsizing my parts collection. These are perfect. Pm me if interested

I have a wade 242a cam in my XF efi running standard ecu. Its the largest you can go without going aftermarket ecu. Car runs no problem and it is a lumpy cam (you can definately tell its cammed). Increased power up the top end slightly too

Most of the alignment comes from where the hinge bolts to the body, the 4 bolts that bolt to the door are only for fine adjustments. I just realigned my door on my very sagged XF ghia hinges on the drivers side (replaced with rare spares hinge repair kit). The best way I found was to use two standard car jacks, XE and XF jacks are great in particular because you can rotate them and still wind them up. To do my method: loosen hinge bolts where the door connects to body (be careful not to over tension them and break the thread on the plate it is quite weak) and use the jacks to put the door where you want it to sit. that includes sliding it forwards or backwards and up and down. Make sure that it sits good when you close it so don't have the door open really wide so you can't see whether its aligned or not prior to tightening bolts. Its a bit of trial and error to get it to sit 100%. Once done, tighten bolts and admire your well aligned X series (they look the coot when aligned right even with crap paint)

I know right. So simple... the egr valve on low mileage spare motor may aswell go on too it looks better then mine lol

Hi guys, Have a problem with my XF efi where the idle goes to almost 2k RPM in neutral when the car is at optimum temperature. When I return back into the gear the idle sits below 1k rpm. I have changed the AFM to another stock one, same thing. Changed the ISC to a spare one, same thing. Tried fiddling with the idle screw and air flow meter adjustment and still same thing. I have no idea where the problem is. Can anybody please help me !! Could it be timing that could be off? The car idles and drives lovely.

Found the bloody problem. After examining my spare motor i found the throttle much tighter then mine. I examined my motor and i have no return spring on my throttle. Explains the sticky idle. Thanks for the help guys i will fit the spring this weekend.

Found this - can anybody confirm its the right procedure for testing? The XF has a diagnostic mode, access this and post the results. To access the codes: -Find the diagnostic connectors (near the brake booster). -Jump the white/red wire on the self test connector (single plug) to the black/white wire on the diagnostic connector (3 terminal plug). -Connect an LED test lamp between battery positive and the brown/red wire on the diagnosic port. -Switch the ignition to ON. -The 'fast codes' will be displayed first, ignore these. (the light will flicker) -The next codes are the 'hard codes', record these. -After a 6 second pause, the memory codes will be displayed, record these. -If you need to repeat the codes, turn the ignition off for 15 seconds and then back on. Each set comprises of a series of 0.5 second pulses, a 2 second pause and a further 0.5 second set of pulses. The first set represents tens, the second set represents units. If there is more than one code in a group, they will be seperated by a 4 second gap. Ie. for code 12, you will get one pulse, 2 second gap, then 2 pulses. Codes 10. Seperator code 20. Engine identification 11. System pass 12. RPM out of spec. 13. RPM out of spec. 15. ROM test failed (ECU memory) 21. Emgine coolant temperature out of range 23. Throttle position signalout of range 24. Air temperature signal out of range 26. Air flow sensor signal out of range 34. EGR not flowing 67. Neutral drive signal or air conditioner on (engine off) According to the book, the problem could be one or more of the following: TFI system Fuel Supply Air flow meter Coolant temp sensor Idle speed control valve Throttle position sensor Control relay

No I havent I know you can do it but I can't seem to find a guide. If you know how please let me know that would be appreciated!

TPS I put on the car was off a low mileage head I recently purchased. I have a few more things which I will swap over to test out on my car to see where the problem lays

Could it be that my base timing is off and given my harmonic balancer is wobbly under 1k rpm could that also change it? Could it be my slightly larger cam? Im stumped cos it only does it once its hot. If i turn the car off while it revs out and turn it on again the idle is fine. I have an entire head with everything on it which i have started to swap parts to mine. Changed tps today and it didnt change a thing.

Disconnected the green plug spout for timing. Idle went down to normal. What could the problem be?

Disconnected the tps sensor and the problem still happens exactly the same? Idle did not change at all. Could it be faulty?

How can I tell if the butterfly is sticking? By looking at where the throttle cable connection area?

I also noticed that when I'm driving it seems to drive on its own (only when warm)... like its holding the rpm and the speed until I start braking and slowing down. Will check coolant sensor tonight

Another thing: When I rev the car the idle sits and doesn't drop rapidly like a normal car does when the car is warm. I have no idea where the leak could be. When we rebuilt the top half of the motor we made sure all the vacume hoses go where they're suppose to via factory schematics and they are all hooked up. When i remove the oil cap the car seems to stall no problem.

Where abouts is the coolant sensor? I know where the coolant level one is but where is the one you speak of? cheers

I have also driven home without the ISC connected and it still idles high at around 1800rpm (almost the same)

I think trip computers must be unique to each model of car. ZL lanes have 4 stop lights whereas XFs only have 2... etc etc.

for the light on the parcel shelf/ top, its usually the 1987 XFs that had them because the law was enforced to have them factory. Anything before the 87s didn't have the light so it was not necessary

I tried a million things in the end I had one trip computer that would not reset the time (I have been driving the car for 4 months now without the time being reset) so I ended up removing the bulb in that trip comp. I have collected around 4 trip computers now and they all seem to have their own little issues. My understanding is that the resistor pack in the back of the trip comp seems to stuff up and in the end I just left it at that and focused on more important things. 80s electronics! I would like one day to have it fixed though its a handy feature. Would hope someone out there can recondition these vdo trip computers!

Use a flat tool like a brick trowler and wedge the flat part just on the bottom lip part on the underside of gutter then use a rubber mallet to bang the trowler gently. If you do it this way slowly you won't warp the metal. Its scary the first time but works great after you get used to it. never had any issues doing it this way

Before I put the trans in I gave it a service with a new filter and everything. not sure how the trans was before I bought it but its smooth on the gears just seems my car drops in gear too high in rpm.

I put a reco'd trans in it after the first one blew, what would it need to stop the "thump" its not actually a noise it just doesn't seem to have a drop when it goes into gear!