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xcsam

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Posts posted by xcsam

  1. Posted

    Pretty sure they are about 350kg.

     

    i wouldn't think that they would be that heavy? My Toyota 12HT turbo diesel engine would be heavier than a clevo, and it's about 350kg i think

  2. Posted

    I spoke to Dave at AFD the other day. He was very informative. He said that my 2v open chambers are fine, but I needed the AFD stage 3 port, which will potentially get me 400-450 flywheel hp, with the option of increasing those figures in the future if I wish to. I'm very happy with the price as well. Just one question  though, i'm planning to use an Edelbrock RPM air gap or similar type manifold. Is it worth the additional price to have the manifold ported to match the cylinder heads? What does porting the manifold achieve? I thought that they were pretty good to begin with...

  4. Posted

    What sort of price difference in the initial costs of building the engine would I see with petrol vs LPG? Obviously building a dedicated LPG clevo would be significantly more expensive?

  6. Posted

    I'd go fuel as your running a 5 speed, with a small hydraulic roller cam (in the .550"-560" lift range and somewhere around 260-270 degrees duration should sound nastier than it actually is (a comp 270hr springs to mind)), 302 rods and heads, nice and torquey and should be able to see between 11-12 liters per 100ks I driven nicely

     

    So something like this wouldn't work as well on LPG?

  7. Posted

    G'day members, i've got a whole heap of clevo and XC parts in my garage and I am planning a new engine build. I've got 2x clevo blocks that haven't been bored, 4ma crank, some 302 rods, but may possibly get more appropriate ones if necessary (as well as pistons), open chamber 2v heads, Holley 750 vac carby, Tremec 5 speed box and heaps of other stuff as well. Speaking to you guys and an engine builder, the first thing I have to decide on is what I want to the engine to do for me and then decide on the compression ratio.... I want to be able to start the engine and drive, whether it be cruising around town or interstate. I want my engine to sound 'big' and 'nasty'.

     

    Initially I always planned to run my engine on straight petrol, but after driving a friend's GU Patrol on gas, I wondered about building an LPG clevo? I can see the financial benefits of filling tank of LPG at the servo vs petrol, but what about performance mods for LPG. I've read that you can build an engine like this to run on LPG or petrol, but not both because if it's tuned/set-up for one, it's not going to be as good on the other fuel.

     

    As for performance, I was hoping for 400hp at the flywheel, but it's not essential to get that figure if I cant. I'm planning to build a cruiser, not a race-car. I know that I can get these figures on petrol, but can i with gas?

     

    My budget is as little as possible, but it can be increased if necessary. For example, if I had a budget of $4000 to build my engine over 2 years, and you said that i'm going to need $6000 to build the engine, then it would take me 3 years, not 2 (hypothetically).

     

    What are my options for an LPG clevo, or should I just stick to petrol?  

  10. Posted

    I just got myself a 4ma crank, and another virgin block yesterday (so it's not going to be a stroker anymore). I've already got the 302 rods, now the 351 crank, open chamber heads, holley 750 vac carby, tri-y extractors, twin 2.5" exhaust Tremec V8 T5 gearbox. I'd like to do some minor upgrades to my heads, add something like an edelbrock performer intake, suitable pistons, maybe 3.23 or 3.45 diff and a mild/moderate cam.

     

    I was speaking to an engine builder about what you guys have said about finding the right compression ratio as I still cant completely understand. He said that I've "got to know what I want to do with the engine". I say that I want a street/cruising engine that I can run on regular or 95 unleaded, that sounds really nasty, but is not a pig to drive.

     

    What am I going to get if I put this engine together with the stuff I have (adding all the components I need)?

  11. Posted

    The number on the gearbox is 13-52-065-922, which means it is a T5. Looking online for those numbers, it appears that it was from a 5.0 V8 Mustang between 83-84. The ratios I found are:

     

    Reverse- 2.76

    1st- 2.95

    2nd- 1.94

    3rd- 1.34

    4th- 1

    5th- 0.63

     

    Torque- 305 ft/lb

  12. Posted

    In my factory 302 XC ute, I have the standard 2.92 ratio. What sort of diff is this? Is it the BW 78 series? When looking at different gears, I see 0575 and 0578 gears. Are each of them interchangeable? I'd like to change my diff gears from something between 3.23 and 3.7 to go with my 5 speed box

  16. Posted

    G'day, I just got myself a Tremec gearbox in good condition that was said to be removed from a Ford. I am aiming to build a 400hp 351 or storker clevo for my XC ute. Previously, I was planning to fit a T5 gearbox from an XF to my ute, but lots of people have advised me against that due to the weaknesses of the T5. Was the first Tremec gearbox the 3550? If so, they are rated at 350 ft/lbs or 474nm for torque, compared with the 265 ft/lbs or 359nm torque of the earliest T5 box. If the box I got is a TKO, it is rated at somewhere between 375 and 400ft/lbs of torque. How do I interpret the torque ratings of the gearboxes. Do you guys reckon that it will be adequate to stand up to the 400 flywheel hp that I am hoping for out of my clevo? Will I need to a) modify my existing single-rail to clevo bellhousing that I was expecting to use, B) modify the bellhousing that comes with the box, or c) purchase a specific tremec to clevo bellhousing? What are the options for my clutch setup?

     

    Thanks guy!

  17. Posted

    OK, thanks for the advice guys. I'm sort of starting to understand where you're coming from (a bit :wacko: ). What compression do I need to aim for if I am going to run the engine on regular unleaded, or is my understanding heading in the wrong direction, lol?

  19. Posted

    OK! So the closed chamber heads have more compression. You said that I need to decide the compression ratio that I want before I do anthing else. You also suggested that the comp ratio for 351 with open chambers is around 9.2:1 as standard. Correct me if im wrong, but alot of you guys with these big power engines are on between 10-12:1 compression. What can you do with say 11:1 compression ratio that you cant do with 9:1? What's the difference? How do I decide what compression ratio is right for me? Remember I said that I want 400hp at the flywheel with a MINIMUM 351 (i'm leaning towards a decent stroker kit like 393 or 408- though not procrap or anything like that).

     

    I also have a set of 6.125" rods from a 302. Can I up my compression with these rods and some specific pistons? Thanks for your input so far guys.

  20. Posted

    alright to give you an idea as to what they can handle

    dad spins his stock crank rod setup to 7500rpm, flat top pistons, runs 850quick flow carby, custom solid cam with 650lift, alloy chi 2v heads, high rise chi manifold, and thats at about 550hp at the flywheel.

    Thanks for that info, I strongly doubt that i'll ever break those figures, even if I want to.

     

    Judging by your responses, I get the impression that I have to match the cylinder heads with a particular camshaft- eg I cant just modify the heads and then decide which cam im using?

  21. Posted

    LoL. It's obvious that I don't know much about V8's, as others had said that open chambers were better for my needs. Oh well, if the open chambers are "nowhere near as responsive or torquey as the closed chambers", I guess that's ok, because my daily driver is a non-turbo 2H diesel HJ60 Landcruiser, which does the 1/4 mile 41 seconds. 

  24. Posted

    G'day members. Today I got some 2nd hand open chamber heads from a 351. They've been cleaned, sand blasted and crack tested. I know that this is a bit of a 'vague' question, but what should I think about doing to them. I would like a 'moderate' upgrade. Port and Polish? Bigger valves

     

    I have been collecting parts for many years. I've got a Holley 750 vac sec carby, tri-y extractors, twin 2.5" exhaust system, but the rest of the engine is undecided. I want a 351 as a minimum, possibly a stroker kit. I am wanting to make 400hp at the flywheel.

     

    I know that the cam will also be an issue, but what is the best option for the heads?

     

    PS- it's an XC ute, I have a 5 speed manual, and i'm tossing up between keeping the 2.92 diff, or get a 3.5 or somewhere in between.

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