blu xe

I've had some with really nice gaps and others that were really bad. Luck of the draw. Start at the back and work forward. If your chasing nice gaps on any older ford or whatever car for that matter it needs to happen prior to paint. As Ando said rubbers fitted and door hinges bushed to eliminate droop. Really nice gaps will require levering, smacking them with mallets and hammers, or adding metal by welding or grinding edges back and rewelding to suit. If you aren't that keen its a happy medium I'm afraid. One that really shits me is the dog leg to back door. I don't think I've had one yet that doesn't have a way to tight gap. 

5 hours ago, slydog said:

This ^^^ old school look modern running

 

There was an early mustang up at our local ford day with one on his 6 banger. Walked past and almost missed it. Another guys running one on his clevo never been on a dyno and runs high 11's. Says could do with some dyno time to sort out how it runs on a cold start but once its up to temp runs faultlessly.

How about aussie speed 4 barrel manifold and the throttle body self tuning efi deals that are getting chucked on everything lately.

F246 has been the  basic go to all rounder for years with clevos. Was a very popular cam to use in the 90's for a tuff street clevo. Many were 12 second cars with pretty good drivability. With the better manifolds and heads available these days you could screw some decent power out of that same cam these days. In saying that theres probably many more grinds that would work better than that cam as well now.

DA polishers are awesome for swirl marks and are pretty forgiving for a rookie as opposed to a normal rotary buff. I still use a rotary buff for cutting but a DA for finishing. The big foot 21  one is what i've used but they are filthy expensive. There are plenty of others around that are more affordable, cant say if they do as good a job but yeah for swirl marks they cant be beat.  

Not my cup of tea but I love the standard ESP interiors so i'm probably not the best person to give their opinion. Haha. 

And most will still do a shit job of it ^^^^^^^

Do the kits fit an xg bay? They are pretty much a bolt in deal on e series cars just didn't know about earlier stuff.

Mate of mine has one of the cheapy kits with the up pipe set up on an el xr6. Made 300rwhp with the supplied generic tune without the inter cooler hooked up yet and only low boost. Went to the drags and ran a 13 flat at 112mph on way to skinny street rubber to get any form of traction. Not a bad effort I thought for a thrown together non intercooled kit that cost him about 3 grand that hasn't had a proper tune yet. Oh and a 50 shot of NOS to help it off the line which probably hindered it come to think of it traction wise. He's intercooling it shortly and turning up the boost once it had some dyno time to sort it out.

Thats looking rather sexy mate. Might be due to pop in for a look me thinks!

Tied a bolt to the inside of cant rail ,sill or pillar so it rattles around and drives the service dept nuts trying to find the rattle that the potential customer keeps complaining about. Don't laugh has happened in the past! 

Or you could put a D shackle through one of the manifold bolt holes attach a chain to it and a cargo ship could use it as a new anchor! fark them cast iron jobbies are heavy!!!!!!!!

Yeah i'd say there would definitely be more shape in that panel than meets the eye. English wheel anyone?

If I was to have a crack at it i'd make the piece up 10-12 mm over size and run a flange tool around the edge of the piece and bring it in from the inside.

would sit pretty much flush with just a small edge to fill on the outside. Your chosen panel bond will probably ooze out and with a bog  applicator smooth it of to fill the gap. Whatever is left is sand and fill with normal filler. What might bite you is if there is a bit of shape in the quarter and it will want to sink a bit. The flanged edge might help or possible make it worse.

3m, terason and wurth all do panel bonds and all of these would have better products suited to the job than sika flex. Haven't used sika in a looooong time but even back then they weren't exactly leading the way in adhesive technology.

Both rails I believe Glenn. New floor too from where the rear seat sits right to the back. Very nicely done to I might add.

Yeah not sure I'd be game to ride shotgun during a power skid. LOL. In saying that GM's the best in the business and you'd be in good hands. He did say himself before hand on Saturday's run its the hardest thing to do as it can go bad in a second. I'll keep that in mind Rob if he's up this way again be cool to have a yarn and maybe a ride even if it was just a cruise lap.

Good week end hey Ando. I went up yesterday. Gary Myers has a pair of nuts the size of cannon balls. Power skidded 2insane pretty much the length of the track picking up some serious pace by the end of it. It ran straight as an arrow so the big man made it look easy as going to pick up the milk. LOL.

Here what your saying I got an itch that may need scratching! Its just not fun watching people with fun cars!

Robs only missing mopar bits in his engine. Fix that and he'll be repping bits from all the big manufacturers. LOL

Looks good mate! You have been busy!

Xd is different to xe. Xd runs a chassis rail down both sides so cutting out the spare wheel tub has no effect to strength. The spare wheel tub in an xe is structural. If you removed it you'd need to fab up a chassis rail. I've not compared the two but a r/hand rail out of an xd may be able to be adapted?? Could be a bit tricky where the watts link bracket marries up. 

That's some impressive looking gear right there!

You go for a look today?

Harder to tune? Or you got that shit under control?

Been nearly an hour since the big announcement hurry up and spill the beans already farking!!!!!