blu xe

Yeah my Xg had a moulded one in it also.

Yep then seal that up properly from inside. I also try and wipe a bit of sealer after its primed and before paint into any gaps on the outside of the pinchweld then you safe guarded from in and out. Also keep in mind if your only patch welding sometimes its quicker to replace a section the length of the inner quarter. Just gives you nice clean steel to plug weld back to.

If your going to the extent of chopping it where you've marked it you may as well just cut the whole bottom of the outer off. This will give you access to the inner also. Looking at what you've shown there I would almost bet my balls that there will be more to be found where the wheel arch comes round. It won't take all that much more effort. Cut it maybe 10 or 15 mm down from the swage line then drill all the spot welds out around the edges. By cutting it near that line it will help minimise distortion when you weld it all back together.

Any 2 pack paint should hold up you just got to make sure it is super clean. We've painted engines in solid and metallics and never had any issues. A good clean with degreaser then thinners on a rag until there's no dirty shit left on the rag. Then the crap job of giving it all a good sand with whatever old sand paper you got kicking round to key it up. Then epoxy and more sanding (240 then 400 dry) and fine pads and red scotch brite pads for the fiddly shit bits. More cleaning with prepsol and paint away.

Would be interesting to see how it stacks up. They are a pretty rare bit of gear these days aren't they?

Fark me my head hurts reading all this! Lol.

They were the shit before the high rise single planes came along.

Your completely missing the point here Rob. You actually need to make the ute faster then slow that bitch down with a chute !! On a serious note though I recall seeing wilwood doing a bolt on kit on ebay that looked pretty good at a decent price.

Lol , I'm not a painter I'm a beater. Slightly higher intelligence level than you painter blokes. That's why I know stuff !! Lol

Agree with Ants. Piss the striker off. Pull the splash guard out of the guards to give better access to the hinge bolts and align it at the pillar. While the doors have a fair bit of alignment at the door itself I really only mainly use them to move the door in and out to get them flush. You have to be in the ball park at the pillar first then fine tune at the door itself from there. Make sure your hinge bushes aren't flogged cause this will give you more dramas. Concentrate on an even gap along the back to the quarter first. the sill should go close to being right from there. To get the front can be tricky on these. I've had some cars that sit perfectly with little fuss and others that regardless what I did they were never quite right. You may need to move the guard around also once you've got the door close. Gapping these cars is always a bit of a compromise as they were all over the place gap wise even from new.

Clean up back to bare metal then epoxy straight over the metal. This seals off the metal from the elements. Then guide coat and start blocking with 120 on a board file. Mark any lows that show up key up the areas and apply your bog . Then high fill as per usual. Block with 180 dry and reprime. 180 then 240 dry block and if it's a clear over base black 400 wet then 800 wet.

Then what happens come rego time if the same engine number pops up in another car?

Yep screw stuffing around with paint stripper for ages straight to a blasters with that one. Will look brand new again no mess no fuss.

Glenn Seatons ford credit el has always been one of my favourite race cars. Loved that car.

Hey guys and girls. Looking to polish up the chrome window trims and surrounds on the xe. They have some light scratching that won't come out with out a good sand first. Are they able to be sanded with fine wet and dry and repolished or do they have an anodized coating over them that will turn to shit if sanded. Some look like they have a coating others don't.

I could be wrong but i'm almost certain that neither greens tuf or tru blu had 4v heads. The rules wouldn't have allowed them at that time. I think they even had to run the shitty standard cast iron intake manifold with maybe the exception of the 1984 greens tuf. I couldn't see why you couldn't build an honest 450hp streeter with whats so readily available these days.

Have given this some thought in the past also. The sides wouldn't be that much of an issue but finishing off the back edge of it would take some work.

I've done a few now and i'm not a real fan of the idea. The thing I don't like about them is how much fibreglass moves around with heat cycles as opposed to the steel that doesn't move that it is attached to.I've tried a few different ways to do em. The last one I did the bonnet was bare metalled then epoxied. I used a two part panel bond and clamped it over night with vice grips. Both the mating surfaces were keyed up and cleaned with acetone before being stuck down. Then used fibre glass filler to rough in from scoop to bonnet and finish off with normal filler. Others will have their way of doing them and I'm keen to hear other options. Regardless of what method you go with you somehow need to make sure moisture can't work its way through from the underside of the scoop into filler or its going to turn to shit real quick. That's why I went the 2 part panel bond cause it seals off the bog. Its also sandable so that when you knock down where the scoop will blend into the bonnet its still hard so you can put filler over as normal and not rubbery like sikaflex for example. Kind of hard to describe in words hope that helps a bit.LOL

I'm in the process of looking into sheds at the moment and the missus is cracking the shits with how big I want to build it but I'll bet my left one that half the crap in the house that's hiding in the built in robes ends up in there!

Didn't tempe tyres buy them out? Or was that just rumour? Have also heard they aren't really to the same quality. Again might just be rumour.

Is that a gap near the top hinge? Next to the lower bolt.

Water leaks can be a real pain in the ass to pinpoint sometimes. Grab the garden hose a mate a torch and some beer. Start hosing at the lowest point of the pillar working your way up it until you spot where its dribbling in from. I'd pop out the splash skirt and get the hose in from there. Sit said mate in the car with the torch and coldie. By starting down lower and working up slowly you can control where you want the water to go and hopefully pinpoint your problem area. This is good for more difficult leaks. If you can actually see the water pooling up somewhere this method will also highlight exactly where its entering rather than flood a whole section from the top down. Hopefully its something as simple as old dry screen sealer. Check the rubber grommets on the pillar are in there and sitting properly this is also another one to look for.

Thats one sexy xr right there! I agree could be done on that coin. As you said engine. Not whole driveline unless you got alot of it kicking round already.