blu xe

Holy crap just looked through this thread and the chicks dad should never be allowed to work on a car ever again! Dash has more lights and switches than a nasa space mission! Good starting point for a project none the less. I'd start with wiring and dash. Rip everything out and start again. It'll be easier than sorting that abomination. Probably easier to go an aftermarket ecu to get it running right.

Looking better than the last I saw of it. Nice work. Do I book now for a ride once she's up and running so you can show me what a proper crossie is capable of?

Who cares whats in there TBH as long as it hauls ass and stays in one piece it doesn't matter how or whats in there to make it all work!

Or just get your bay painted finish THOR and have the quickest shop ute in town! Shotgun first ride!

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.

If your insured make a claim. Pay the 5-$600 excess. Will get the tyre replaced body work sorted and ABS fixed all in one go.

So today my series 2 xr8 that has run faultlessly for the last 20000km that I've put on it since I bought it at the beginning of this year developed a splutter that came from nowhere. Normal driving just pulled out of a round about then wouldn't rev on light throttle and spluttered and missed until I booted it then ran sweet until you get off it. Then run shit again for a bit and came good. Stopped at the shops for 5 minutes then same thing again. Again sink the boot runs crisp then crap for a bit once you back off. Then all good since for the rest of the arvo's driving. Feels like a fuel issue. Might try get hold of a fuel filter and change it. I've also noticed whilst under light load it sometimes feels like it surges ever so slightly which also leads me to my suspicions of dirty fuel filter. Anyone else with suggestions i'm all ears so fire away.

Yeah tending to agree with you. As I said its running sweet today and didn't miss a beat on a quick trip to Mareeba today.

Disconnected MAF. Stalled straight away. Pulled the vac line from the reg ran rough straight up. So I guess that rules out those two.

Drove it today did nothing ran sweet as..... Still going to do a fuel filter change anyway cause who knows how long its been on there.

Thanks Thom will have a bit of a look at those things mentioned.

Its run smoothly the whole time I've had it. Only today it played up. Pretty suddenly went off song then came good after a quick squirt. Went shit again then come good and continued to run good. Under load it pulls like normal it was only at slow speeds around town today where it played up. As soon as you stood on it , it kicked down cleared its throat and went well.

Dan's a champ. Young grass hopper did his time with us at Bears. He goes good with the gun. Funny you mentioned the beers. He painted my Xe after a pretty big night. Poor bastard was sick as trying not to vomit in his mask and was overall feeling very seedy. I was amazed at how good he got it off the gun and I always joke with him that he should just paint everything drunk cause it came out so well. Ask him bout it he'll have a good giggle.

That's why I was thinking fuel filter blockage. Came on pretty sudden though not even a cough before it went off song. Played up twice today then went away and was good all the way home. I'd suspect a broken valve spring would run like shit all the time?

Where'd you end up finding the tina? Can't remember the last time I saw one up this way that wasn't raped by rust! Got a feeling that THOR will be without a home for a bit while the Corty gets some love?

We use garnet in one of those gravity fed hopper blasters for small jobs.

Couple of options. 1 If you can get hold of a mini sand blaster you can hit them with that to clean them up. Then prime the surface with an epoxy primer. EPOXY GOES STRAIGHT OVER BARE METAL NO ETCH PRIMER or anything else. 2 Treat them with a metal conditioner. All the main paint companies will have their own versions. Most of them work the same usually a 3:1 mix of conditioner and water. You need to wear gloves as it is acidic. Dip a scotch brite pad into the solution and give the effected areas a good scrub. Then to neutralize the metal conditioner you clean with water. I do it in stages by soaking a rag to remove the bulk then use a few damp ones to get rid of the rest. Working your way down till its dry. Then orby sand it with 80 or even 40 grit to key up the surface then again hit it immediately with epoxy. Another thing to remember about metal conditioners is to make sure it is properly neutralized. Also keep the stuff away from lapped joins where it can creep in between two panels cause you really can't tell if you have indeed neutralized the acid and if you haven't and it stays trapped it'll cause you problems later down the track.

Dragways maybe???

Yep and things haven't changed much Ants assessors still don't know their ass from their elbow!

You have fun with that. That is absolute shit to get off that stuff. Rubberised caramel wheel would be my suggestion and even then your going to be there forever and will probably mark the paint underneath. Which in turn means you will have to paint the panel. Which still means the stuff has to come off and your back to your initial predicament. LOL. Someone else might have an easy way of doing it.

Why did they only do em as an 8" width. Need more fat.

Proper air tool oil is the go and only a drop any more gets blown out the exhaust. I've had cheap shit air tools last for years being pretty slack with keeping them oiled. So my way of thinking is they can't need to much at all.

Check all the usual GT repo gear guys. I'm sure I've seen someone had them as a copy of the original design somewhere. I'm also pretty sure they were asking really crazy money for what would most likely be a thrashed sump that's had the bottom cut off and the ears welded on.

If you want a period correct looking wheel then I'd say globes would be the go. You can get the wider ones that the cobra boys like to stick on to fill the coupe guards. Look good on xd's too.

LOL. Yeah definitely an acquired taste and although I'm not a fan they definitely aren't the ugliest wheel you could go with. Some of them poxy chrome 20's on the other hand.......