Nath

If it's been flogged you'd think it would have exploded by now if it was going to...

I'll just leave this here... But seriously - anything that's mild enough not to kill a BW35 is probably gonna be relatively low on power so you'd want to maximize the usage of what you do have right? Can't speak for a C4 but my XD was painfully slow with a BW35, best thing I ever did was get rid of it. EFI Crossflows had BW40's behind them - wouldn't surprise me if it'd handle a stock 289 or 302 ok as long as you didn't flog the piss out of it. For what it's worth (not much ) if I was going to go auto again it'd be a C4. Not because I know if they're any better or not but I do know that BW35s are better suited as boat anchors.

I hear the coathanger shaped like Australia is popular.

Must be a mechanic or something Greg

Might crack it open and have a look then

Wasn't sure where to post this but figured this would do... Engine runs fine with current ECU. No unusual burps, farts, smells, runs perfect. I have a spare one here (also a stock ECU) which has known "running" issues - mechanic's words not mine, which I'm trying to pinpoint as I have a couple of plans for it if it's serviceable. Starts fine, doesn't misfire or anything. I've checked for error codes and am getting none, so as far as the engine is concerned everything is as it should be. It appears to be running extremely rich though. It's not blowing smoke but the exhaust smells badly of fuel and the engine is running very cold - about 20 degrees colder in any given situation than the stock ECU. Removing intake and exhaust restrictions doesn't seem to help at all (doing the same thing would make the other ECU very lean) so it's obviously running very fat for some reason. I need to know if this particular ECU is stuffed or is just running a rich tune (maybe came out of a worked engine, unknown history). If I could get it re-mapped that would be awesome but I don't want to waste money on it if that won't solve anything. Anyone got any suggestions/advice? Ideally I'd just buy another one and be done with it but they're pretty hard to come by.

I should mention that with the stock ECU none of these issues happen so you'd think it would be ECU related or it'd do it all the time?

Well this sure is confusing... All restrictions back on (stock air intake and exhaust baffling). It still has a flat spot and crappy initial throttle response but it bogs down a lot less than before (no restriction or one of those two things). The exhaust still smells like a petrol station and it still runs cold though. It's contradicting itself. Might just have to put this down to "EFI is the devil".

That thought crossed my mind but the fact that it actually did cause a flat spot means it must have done something to the AFR. But it has me scratching my head because leaning it out should have made it better not worse.

This keeps getting weirder. Used the rich ecu but removed all intake and exhaust restrictions and it actually got worse - huge flat spot up to 3.5krpm but still running rich. Not sure what to make of that, logic would say leaning it out would help, if only a little but it actually made it worse?

All I know about it is that it was installed on the bike by the original owner at one point but was then removed by a mechanic because of "running issues" according to the service records - i.e. running stupidly rich as I found out. There was the pink marker that wreckers use on it indicating it was from the same model bike but a year earlier. AFAIK nothing changed between years. There is a chance it could have been from a track bike or something which would explain why it had a fat tune - but you would think the mech would just re-flash it instead of replacing the entire thing if that was the case.

Everything works the same way... Pretend it's an XR6 or something Just need to find out if the tune is just wrong or if it's actually cactus.

Bike but the principles are the same. Given that everything is fine with the other ECU installed it can't really be sensor related or anything except the tune can it?

Yeah I can see why you'd need one

Giggity

Monroe are shit, you can have my fronts if you want to see exactly how much they suck From what I've read you're better off going hydraulic rather than gas on an X series, apparently they have issues compressing the gas ones properly IIRC.

If it's gonna go through every guy in OzFalcon can we leave unfamilia till last?

That'd be awesome I reckon a few of the Sydney guys would be interested.

Yeah I'm definitely going to give it a go at some stage. I'd like to get everything else 100% sorted before I do something irreversible though, so it's gonna have to wait.

If it corners like a race car it probably has to ride like one too which I'm not too excited about Once everything else is sorted (and I'm not running urethane contol arm bushes anymore...) I might see if they do heavier springs - surely they would if you asked. Hey Falcons went around bathurst, leaf springs and all so they can't be that bad at the end of the day.

My engines making a noise what's wrong with it?

The coilies are definitely thinner, I'll compare them next time I have it up. You might be able to fit some extra wheel in there but not a lot. Yeah I have noticed that a bit on my car lately, especially since it has a couple of things wrong with it, I kind of enjoy driving it a lot less since I'm worried about something breaking, and every time I hit a pothole or speed hump I'm hating life. The AU was a dog to drive with the rooted clutch/dff but at least it was comfortable and just kind of glided across the road. thinner, you might be able to squeeze in some extra wheel but not much. Next time I have it up I'll measure it for you and compare it to the normal King Springs.

Not sure, I don't think so. The stock springs don't stick out further than the control arm does anyway I'm pretty sure. Unless the contact point for the bigger wheels was on the spring or saddle I can't see why it would.

Think I might stick to rubber from now on... urethane just makes it ride like shit, so I reckon for everything bar steering/sway bars I will keep rubber. Wheel wise I'm not going any larger than 15s, anything bigger just looks like shit on an old car. Always get good tyres though. All I'm looking for handling wise is a car that points in straight away, doesn't break the rear loose too easily around corners and rides reasonably nicely. The XR8 ticked most of the boxes except the rear because of how fucked and soft the rear suspension was. Having said that it was pretty funny how easily it would go sideways and fishtail but probably not the safest setup and was kind of annoying when you wanted to actually take a corner. I think there's a bit of truth to what Ando is saying - At the end of the day it's still a 35 year old tank with like 60 year old suspension design, there's a limit to how well it will handle and there's probably not much to be gained over a good standard setup because other factors (leaf springs etc) will limit the handling anyway. Not that I've had a chance to thoroughly test it out but I reckon you're gonna buy these the adjustability is what makes it worth the extra money, not the performance (although it's certainly not bad).

Yeah totally new ones Greg - King's Lows. Think they're beefier than stock. The original ones had been sitting in the same position for years and all the rubbers are crap so I figured it was better to start fresh rather than reset them. I haven't tried it without a rear sway bar but might give it a go. I kind of like a bit of oversteer though, especially given that X series were understeery from factory. I liked the way my AU handled (the front of it anyway) and if I could replicate some of that in the XD it'd be nice. It pointed in really well which I liked but the arse end was all over the place - flogged out rear suspension. Was also a really comfortable ride at the same time, although it was kind of on the floaty side. I realise it's not likely to get a 35 year old XD to feel the same way but I'd like to try anyway. After I do the rears I might go back and re-do the control arms at the front in rubber, then start looking at a tighter ratio steering box.