gavinmcmillan

48 minutes ago, bear351c said:

You can do it.  Get a workshop manual, a socket set and a torque wrench. You'll need a full gasket set, rings and bearings to start off with, so price them up.

Cheers, are there any kits I can buy that come with all the pieces as a start? Any idea on what I should budget?

I figured I’d get a working engine first before rebuilding the current.

Well it’s been a fair bit of kicking around and not much closer, after getting it to idle it’s not starting again.

i feel like my only options are to swap it out or rebuild it. Rebuilding kind of appeals to me because I’ve never done it before and I’m keen to learn.

Does anyone have a guide for rebuilding these?

On 03/12/2018 at 2:00 PM, bear351c said:

.........and as always, don't trust the Harmonic balancer.  Sounds like you are one tooth out. As pointed out, the rotor will turn slightly when installing, lift the dizzy out and wind it back quarter of a turn and try again.  Make sure you have true TDC, like suggested.  Stick a drinking straw in No.1 spark plug hole, and watch it rise and fall when you are turning the engine over. 

Well i got it running, the timing is way off though and it needs to be at very high revs to hold idle. It was making a fair bit of noise so took off the rocker cover. There is a fair bit of play between some of the push rods and the rockers and some of them aren't pushing oil through (3 of them). Does this indicate an issue with the hydraulic lifters?

i'd say all in all the engines pretty stuffed lol

1 minute ago, gerg said:

OK time to start thinking outside the box.

You haven't gotten a gutful of water in the fuel? Confirm by clamping fuel line and squirting something flammable down the carby.

Are you 100% certain that #1 is on TDC compression when spark occurs?

Is the new coil designed to run with 9v (as per standard) or is it a 12v type? The latter would give a weak spark which may work outside of the cylinder but under compression, might not light the fire. I had this with a weak coil that would fire a plug outside on cranking, but there was nobody home when connected up. Swapped coils, and she fired no problems.

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Ok i've checked the wiring on the coil and it was back to front, its getting stronger spark now. the Dizzy is fully retarded and its so close to turning over, its so close to turning over. 

I'm going to re-check #1 is on TDC compression when the spark occurs again. 

Question: Can the dizzy be out by 90 degrees?

On 16/09/2018 at 7:18 AM, Ando81 said:

I’ve heard of camshaft wearing and not driving the distributor correctly, I wonder if it’s jumped a tooth at some stage when you turned the engine off. Crossflow engines can wear the fuel pump lobe off the cam therefore stop fuel being pumped into the car by but you said it was pumping fuel in didn’t you? I’d be double checking that you have cylinder 1 on top dead centre using a cable tie or something on top of the piston then see where the timing is set at. This is an odd one that’s for sure

So it looks like when the mechanic swapped the dizzy they put it in 180 degrees out, so that’s fixed up but still won’t start.

fuels in bowl and the fuel pumps up to the carby well, cranks, has spark, timings done - won’t start. 

Totally lost on where to to go to from here, any suggestions?

11 hours ago, Ando81 said:

If it cranks reasonably quick then I’d rule out the battery but I’m really no expert on the topic. Has it got points in the distributor?

Na it’s a capacitive distributor.

12 hours ago, Ando81 said:

I think I’ve heard of a resistor coil only operating on 8v but can’t be 100% sure. If you get a mate to crank the car and check voltage of the battery it will probably drop to 10 or so volts. This may not prove anything but may surprise you as to how low the volts drop during cranking.

I’ll check, if it drops really low I wonder if the issue could be the battery. Far out so many things to check!

On 11/09/2018 at 4:53 PM, Ando81 said:

Could it be a dodgy starter zapping all the power to turn over and in turn robbing power from the coil as it’s trying to start? Maybe if you get a mate to crank it for you and you put a positive wire direct from the battery to coil it might start. I saw this done on a Range Rover V8 a while ago and it worked, I think a relay was placed onto the wiring to the starter and kept it working until the starter completely died.

Ok so i ran a cable from positive terminal on battery to the positive terminal on the coil and still no luck, its cranking but not starting. I dont really get the electrical side of things but i do have a multimeter (though dont really know how to use). If i connect multimeter to the positive and negative terminals of the battery i get 12.5V, when i connect it to the positive and negative of the coil i get 7.8v - i understand the coil has a resister in it, so would that be expected?

11 hours ago, Thom said:

Could be a bad ignition barrel, try running a wire directly from the battery to the coil, if this works it means either the wiring or the barrel isn't sending power to the coil unless it is in the crank position

So if i run a wire from positive terminal on battery over to positive on the coil then turn the key that would be the right way to do this test?

Hi All,

I'm pretty noob at my car, its an XD fairmont with a 250 xflow. The challenge i am having is that the car wont start, but there is some history here so bare with me.... I drove it for a fair few km's one day to grab some parts for it and it died (when i say died we turned the engine off and it just wouldn't start up again). Got it towed back home and through the troubleshooting process did the following:

• did the carby with a carby kit (gaskets etc)
• new plugs and leads
• new coil
• Checked timing

I ended up getting a mechanic to look at it and they replaced the dizzy with a spare and he was able to get it running (however said the actual issue was weak spark due to cable from the coil).

So we drove it for a week and then it died again, and here is where i'm at:

• There is fuel in the bowl and when you pump the pedal fuel squirts in
• There is spark (removed number 1 plug, put it in the lead and held to engine block and its sparks when you crank)
• There is compression (put finger in plug hole to check)

So where i got to was timing/distributor. When checking it with timing gun its set to 6 degrees and it cranks but wont start (not even a splutter), when you full retard the dizzy it almost starts. Any suggestions where i go to from here?

The thing i really cant get my head around is what could have changed between it work and then not working.

Gav

What area are you in Bud?

XDs and XEs didn't have the insert XFs XG XH had in there(for the 4" round speaker)
pretty sure i've seen the 4x6? whatever fits in one's i've had 20yrs ago...all sounded crap anyway..

has anyone butchered the door trims yet? if so, just get some good 6" for the doors(i can't chop holes in door trims anymore.. too hard to find.. or get some butchered ones and save the originals..)

your indicator stalk is on the high beam position,thats why on the second pull its showing high beam,move the stalk to turn off and normal lights should be on the 2nd pull

high beam is on the stalk just move it backwards and high beam light should go off

I had a similar question with my XD - seems 1 pull is Parker’s and second pull is normal and shows high beam. Is that normal or is there meant to be 3 pulls? (Parker’s, low beam, high beam)?


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best bet is to go to a wreckers and look in the dash of an xf xg and you should find some. Youll need the little mounting clips to hold them in.
Dont recon you will get anything but the 4" in there.
I put some 6" split speakers in my doors and the tweeters in the dash in the factory spot in the ute.

They are a straight 4" round speaker. There is an insert that goes in there to allow the round speaker to mount directly in.
The ones i used were from a set of Hertz 3 wy speakers that have a square frame around the speaker.

Hi all,

Just looking to check on my XD as going to put in stereo and speakers and wanted to check sizes.

https://i.imgur.com/cnBnVSS.jpg

Are these 4” x 6”? Also with those square holes what’s the best way to screw in the speakers in?

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