napolian_was
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Posts posted by napolian_was
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i wouldnt have done this write up with out you gerg, i read your write up a couple of years ago and that got me interested in the swap.
yes that 2-3 shift is a tricky one 1-3 gates are very close and i find im trying to push it between 3 and 5 but something im getting use to. i feel like you've got to push straight forward for the 2-3 shift and the single rail you follow the H and come toward your self.
i'm liking the short 1st more as well, car parks and my drive way are now easier to navigate coming from a 2.82 1st. as well as when doing a full throttle run from a stand still it easy to get off the line but you've still got enough time to grab 2nd before red line.
gerg reacted to this -
Awesome thanks mate, if anyone has more to add it would be very much appreciated
deankxf reacted to this -
so first off why would you do a t5 conversion? for most people its going to be fuel economy and lower RPM cruising and are not likely to be giving this thing a hard time so a t5 should do the job fine, so why convert a single rail bellhousing and not buy a rod shop bellhousing? well last i looked it was going to cost me almost $900 to my door and that's a lot of fuel money my friends. So if your looking to do this conversation you've probably already done some research but if not, you must use a 6 cylinder t5 from an xf or whenever they started using them to an el Falcon, au and onwards will need custom tail shaft and shifter won't line up, can't used v8 bellhousing or gearbox it would be way too much trouble, 6 cylinder t5 is almost identical to the single rail.This is to document my experience with converting from a single rail with a bellhousing that has only been drilled for single rail in an XC falcon with an almost stock cleveland with an EB diff running 3.27 gears currently sitting on about 2800rpm at 100kmph using about 20.5l/per 100km
Ok let's get into it, after you've got your bellhousing/gearbox out first thing you'll need to do to your t5 is turn down the input bearing housing about 1.6mm so it'll fit in the hole, if you don't have access to a lathe a machine shop will make very light work of it and won't cost much at all to get done. i had an empty case to help me work out how to go about it.
Then that's done fit it back to the gearbox and after you've got straight as you can you can start working out where your going to tap your new holes, the two top t5 mounting holes can be used so do them first use a punch to mark the holes (transfer punch would make this easy) and then drill and tap, I used 12x1.75 bolts that come with my T5.
Bolt the gearbox back onto the bellhousing and now you can workout the two bottom mounts, as you can see the bottom t5 mount's are lower then the face of the bellhousing so what I did for the right side is make a mark just above the t5 hole, drilled and tapped it then bolt the gearbox back on and center punched the case from the inside of the bellhousing and then drilled the t5 case, as for the bottom left there is no meat in the bellhousing casting inline with the t5 case so I tapped a hole just beside the case and used a clamp style mount on this side that consists of a spacer that falls just short of the thickness of the case and another plate that overlaps the case making it clamp down when tightened against it, this could also be used on the other side if you don't want to drill the case.
So this should have us sorted for mounting the box to the bellhousing now we'll move onto the cross member, measuring from the face of the box there is about 43mm difference between the two so I used part of the EB cross member and welded it to the back of the cross member about 45mm back (you could use a bit of plate or that ever will pick up the mount,plenty of adjustment no need for it to be perfect just needs to be centre) thinking it would be a great idea to use the square hole but it ended up making it very hard to bolt them together it kinda got stuck between the gearbox and the exhaust headers and I couldn't get it low enough due to the exhaust to get the gearbox mount bolt in the hole. so I think if this hole was slotted it would go much easier.
So getting the gearbox in the car I bolted the bellhousing on to the engine and made a few attempts to slide the gearbox on, what I ended up doing is cutting the shifter hole in the floor all the way to the back of the hump mine had about an inch of over hang and that had to go so the shifter housing could get high enough, I also found I couldn't have the shifter Bolted to the gearbox and the hole in my shifter hump is too small to out it through the top so I hung it in the hole with a screwdriver and bolted it on the gearbox after it was in the car. And as I said I struggled with getting the cross member on, I almost dropped one of the headers but ended up getting there.
So everything else goes on just like the single rail,. The internet said to fill it with a half and half mix of vmx80 and dex3 ATF and it seems to shift nice, I made a gear stick with the same bend and thread as the single rail and used the knob to make it look like nothing's been changed.
Final thoughts are, first gear is a bit short but not the end of the world gets off the line nicely, it doesn't have as positive feel when shifting but still alright, down shifts much nicer than the single rail, sits on about 2200rpm at 100 in 5th. Will have some fuel economy numbers after a few hundred k's.Hopefully this helps I've probably missed something but anyway I did my best.rotio's , i'm told the EL box is the best one to get as its a 'world class' and its a bit stronger.EA T51st: 3.50:12nd: 2.14:13rd: 1.39:14th: 1.00:15th: 0.78:1EB2-EL T5 (6 cyl)1st: 3.25:12nd: 1.99:13rd: 1.29:14th: 1.00:15th: 0.72:1 -
sounds like a plan, not that keen on taking that manifold off so I'm thinking of taking the choke cover off and stuffing it with aluminium foil to block off one side and see how i go.
gerg reacted to this -
I wasn't sure if i would run the crossover but its a street car so would probably be in my best interest. new vally pan come with a thin gasket for the bottom of the pan and rtv for the top.
realy excited to run the thermo and see how it performs its a rebuilt unit.
gerg and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this -
So... anyone running a thermoquad on an alloy intake manifold? I've used a speco adapter and ported it to flow better in the opposite direction and butterfly clearance. just got to match the adapter to the manifold now.
cleveland T5 conversion using single rail bellhousing (step by step)
in Transmission and Differential
Posted
Exact same as the single rail, clutch, throw out and fork are all the same. I can unbolt the t5 slide it off the bellhousing and slide the single rail buck in. Can still use the cross member as well.