Travis

Many older water pumps, particularly clevos, are very inefficient at higher rpm, causing a cavitation bubble to form in the centre of the impeller. This is partially cured by slowing it down with a bigger pulley and/or installing a restriction in the top hose so that the pump has a load to work against.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

I have heard of guys having problems with the water pump spinning to fast, by increasing the coolant flow it does not allow enough time for It to cool when passing through the radiator.
 
i think the fix was a bigger water pump pulley maybe a chev one from memory?  Or this could just be a old school thing to do that never actually fixed the problem, I'm only going off what others have done 

Hey all, does anyone know if the serpentine pulley system are the same diameter as the standard pulleys? I know the Gilmer pulleys are a lot smaller,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick question, the manifold I have was match ported to a different set of heads, it wasnt done to the new set, can that be restricting air flow and cause it to rise in temp?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I just rung Aussie dessert coolers to ask if the radiator was a single flow or double or triple, he said it’s only a single flow just with a bigger tank, if I was to try say a pwr triple flow radiator, what do you guys think? I would like all your opinions before I do anything more,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the same Aussie dessert coolers radiator in it, I had it cut open and cleaned out so it’s not blocked, I went for a drive yesterday and it stayed under 90 degrees for 20min, but started going up so I went home, I think I will try getting the mufflers checked out and then a good tune, but if that doesn’t fix it I think I will just sell it, a $6000 motor upgrade has become closer to $10k so I need to draw a line,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only if it needs a new bypass plate...
If the TMeyer thermostat works properly with the original plate in there, I'd leave it, tbh.
 
edit -
whats the cheap chinese thermostat doing (or not doing)?

No...
but apparently Dayco have substituted their DT66A thermostats, for some cheap Chinese thing,
and they have a massive failure rate, at the moment.
 
(was reading a thread on a specific Cleveland FB group)
 
If the Dayco stat doesn't have the part no. 333-180 printed on the side with the temp, it's the new stock chinese junk.
and won't be made correctly.
The Tridon ones are apparently in the same boat.
 
I would still go after the thermostat, personally.
 
I'd order one of those TMeyer thermostats from the USA.
TMeyer Engine Parts, bought the rights to the old Dayco (re-boxed Robert Shaw) thermostats apparently.
 
The Milodon ones from VPW or Eagle Auto Parts, are supposed to be ok?... don't quote me on that.
 
https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/high-flo-thermostat/
 

 

 

 

Is that a GMB cast iron pump?
I'm no expert in fluid dynamics... but the impeller looks awfully inefficient - with such a large gap to the sidewalls?
It'd be interesting to bolt that pump up to a sheet of clear perspex, and watch the flow efficiency/cavitation etc.
 
If it were my engine, I'd run a standard flow cast iron water pump, with an original style cast iron impeller - to minimise cavitation.
(if such a beast still exists)
 
Do you have alloy or cast iron heads?
 
edit -
like this one has
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Cleveland-302-351-V8-water-pump-SH-F-C-suit-parts-or-reco/282994080909?hash=item41e3c2fc8d:g:iIkAAOSwuHJbFK12
 

Far out man you are really having some problems. Hopefully it's sorted out soon and you get to enjoy driving it.

Is that a GMB cast iron pump?
I'm no expert in fluid dynamics... but the impeller looks awfully inefficient - with such a large gap to the sidewalls?
It'd be interesting to bolt that pump up to a sheet of clear perspex, and watch the flow efficiency/cavitation etc.
 
If it were my engine, I'd run a standard flow cast iron water pump, with an original style cast iron impeller - to minimise cavitation.
(if such a beast still exists)
 
Do you have alloy or cast iron heads?
 
edit -
like this one has
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Cleveland-302-351-V8-water-pump-SH-F-C-suit-parts-or-reco/282994080909?hash=item41e3c2fc8d:g:iIkAAOSwuHJbFK12
 

The engine builder I went to on the Gold Coast, I got the right gasket and have put it on now, I’m wondering if this has been the problem all along,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So one thing we found when putting the motor back together was the water pump gasket wasn’t right, this is the gasket that came in the kit with all other gaskets


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What alternater is everyone using that’s better then a standard one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t think it would be a blocked muffler, the engine builder said it might be the problem that’s all, the thermostat I got has the writing on the side of it I’m pretty sure, I will check it tomorrow morning,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has anyone heard of a blocked muffler causing a car to over heat?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check the block hasn't been shaved as well as this will increase the comp way to much for pump gas.
 
I had a 351 030 (Block deck to 0) with 302 Rods and CC Heads and it was a pinging nightmare with unleaded, even 98 was only a little improvement. Change to a wilder cam made a little difference but it then suffered on take off, increased stall and that helped but was still not fun. We estimated it had 11.8:1 comp as on Avgas it was a weapon, you could advance the timing from 0 to about 10degs and the change was awesome
 
Mate had the engine after me and he replaced the heads with a set of shaved & Ported OC reco heads and back to the original Crow cam and it was a total different beast, no over heating and ran really nice as that was just over 10.3:1 compression

Quick question for everyone, my block has been bored out to 30tho, has anyone ever heard of thin walls causing over heating problems?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you get a new radiator I’d go for the XF copper and brass, the wider one designed for air conditioning/tow pack.

I have one with my V8 XD and one in the XF Ghia, I live in Alice Springs where I can drive in 40 plus degrees without any issue.

The XF still has the belt fan and even with air conditioning on it will sit and idle all day long without an issue.

My just 2 cents.

They probably would go that great on a burnout pad but my cars will never see that anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the next step is to get a new radiator, what would you all recommend?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I saw the listing pic the other day.
I meant lets see a pic of the actual thermostat they sent you.
 
Is the engine running hot at idle, OR only whilst driving along?
Or both?
 

 
I doubt an abundance of manifold vacuum at closed throttle, will cause an engine overheat condition.
 
Is the engine running hot at idle, OR only whilst driving along?
Or both?
 
Did you take a pic of the new thermostat yet?

Sorry I ment the new motor doesn’t have the same problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wondering, my old motor didn’t have enough vacuum to run my brakes very well for who knows the reason why, so I had a vacuum pump hooked up so I had brakes, now that this new motor does have that same problem but I’m still using the vacuum pump for my brakes, could to much vacuum not getting used cause it to heat up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the condition of the water pump?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk