Grimmy

Does any one know if the east west adaptors level out the carby so it's horizontal ? Or does the carby fall 3* towards the front of the engine ?

They have to be east west or I'll have to use vac carbs without metering blocks , but I'm not sure about bowl to rocket cover clearance . Will probably use the 2" spacer so I hope it clears . Otherwise I'll just use a bigger hammer

It's listed on the website , I'll give them a ring through the week

I have a set of mahle dished pistons +040 with rings Pm me if your interested

Ive noticed a tolerance in the body , ive had the same suspension set up in 2 cars and one sits atleast an inch higher than the other , ill dig up pics tomorow

It looks as tho the shifter rail has been modified ? All the ones i have seen have a very thin flat piece at the back and the pin is smaller also , where yours is opposite . Maby your play in in the nylon shifter nut

I run my cam in at 140lb on the seat :/

I run Isky 8005a doubles with a damper @140lb on the seat . 250* @050 duration and 612" lift They lost a bit of tension after run in tho , not sure if this is normal

Probably a bit late now but I've smashed the drive straps off 2 6bolt pink exeddy pressure plates , with a cushion button disk . I have around the 300hp mark and 255 tyres . I'm thinking of trying a spring type pressure plate compared to a diaphragm . Weather or not it will fit in the bell housing I'm yet to find out I've also seen the "extreme" brand clutches which might also be worth a try

I've recently bought an el , but the auto has started playing up . It's a std 4spd auto BTR? I think . Anyways , it dosnt seem to know wat gear to stay in . It kinda jumps between gears fairly harshly by its self . It happens mainly at low speeds and wen de-celerating . It don't happen as often when the revs are above tq converter speed . Has any one had this happen before ? I hope it's just a bung sensor or an easy fix

I have an auto out of an EB , are they interchangeable with the EF "computer torque control" automatics ? I noticed the eb box had a dipstick where the later box don't

The old single rail decided to jam between 1st and reverse gear . It will go backward or lock all the gears up . Any ideas how to get it un-jammed ? Or is it a box out job ..

A faulty break booster will cause it to suck air , something a bit left of field but worth checking

Thanks slydog . Wish I got msd when I first got it ! Guess I better go test out the limiter

Thought I might save a new thread and ask here , Does any one know how to wire a msd street fire to an est dizzy with no modual ? Do I set it as a mag pick up , if so which wires on the dizzy are used ?

I think it's something is the box , coz I replaced the saddle n shifter nut not long ago . Syncros maby worn ? I don't kno wat to look for . I'm going to try and make a good box out of 2 over the weekend

Thanks for the replys . I only put the box in last weekend , looks like its coming out again . Any one know why the old box was throwing out of 2nd on de-celeration and reverse all the time ?

Ok so I've noticed today that I have a small amount of water in the sump , so the question is how did it get their ? It's an 83da block , 0decked , mains studded , head studded , shaved head ect . Professionally built by engine builder bla bla . I was thinking blown head gasket , but surely not as both surfaces were decked and it has head studs 2nd thing that came to mind was maybe leaking around the threads in the head studs if proper sealant wasn't used 3rd and finally the block has cracked at the front at the water pump stud . Needless to say I'm filthy on it but I was after a second opinion or a few other ideas before I ring the builder tomorrow Ricky

I first noticed the milky oil on the bottom of the dip stick and it also had water droplets all the way upto the top It's been worse than in the pic , the first time I found it it was about a half hour or so of driving . Pulled the tappet cover off and it was clean up top . I called the bloke who built it and he also thinks it may be condensation but shortly after I got off the phone I found it leaking coolant around the head studs The builder recommended I put "black blocks" in the radiator to seal any leaks , it seems to have stopped coolant weeping around the studs but I'm still finding milk on the dipstick . So it maybe just condensation . But after its just been running ? It's not consistent either , sometimes it's their and others its not . A compression test came back at 200+ psi on all cyls , gauge don't go any higher . It hasn't blown up so it can't be too bad I guess ..

Oh sorry , my bad . it may have cracked . I haven't had it apart to check , Builder might want it back as is and untouched . Will find out tomorrow I guess

The engine builder is very particular with the fastening lubricant and tourqe specs , but it won't hurt to ask . I hope it's not the block . Wats the damage on grout these days ?

It's done about 5000kms since its been built , never overheated , hasn't been near deep water , haven't noticed steam from the exhaust or bubbles in the radiator . Hasn't been revved past 6500rpm , might seem like a lot but a used to rev a stock bottom end and crap head that was not touqued in any fashion and never had an issue

I'm trying to convert from power to NONpower steering and I'm wondering if the steering colum has to be changed aswell ? P/s colum looks 2" shorter Anyone changed it before ?

Idler arms are the same mate , pitman arms are different in the spline tho

So I started pulling down my old engine today and I noticed that #1&6 intake ports are near black , while the rest are perfectly clean . Any one know what would cause this ?