MatthewXD302c

Thansk for photos, dont do social media.  Interior looks sweet.!  Love the grey velour, reminds me of my LTD.

Here's some pics for you guys if you don't have Instagram.

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Guys I have finally started the Build on my XD. After turning 18 in June last year and finishing school I have found myself an apprenticeship as a electrician. It's been a good 3 months into the build now and you can follow it all on Instagram @1tuffxd302

Cheers

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As a crusier my 302C has been alright, apart from 4.11's killing economy. as a drag car has been a fail.
I started the build as I wanted to make around similar power to AU 2or3 XR8,
Did a basic reco, hot tanked, honed, all new bearing, moly rings, recoed heads with upgraded valve springs, retainers, locks, hardened pushrods,
Crow cam & lifters, cam is a 21603 214/214 @0.050'' .510"/.510" 110lsa makes power till 5500 rpm, edelbrock performer, 650 holley, extractors 2.5" twin exhaust.
made 240rwhp last time it was tuned
 
see my build thread link XE V8 drag ute for info & videos of it running
 

Still sounds like a fairly big project. Try to make sure you have the money to finish it before pulling it apart.  Or  have a good shed that for it and the parts to be stored until finished 

a diff conversion place will cut the axle tubes, re weld them an inch or so inwards(to offset the wide wheels) 
sometimes they'll have axels that suit, otherwise they'll need resplining to suit.. 
$1000 min for that probably.. 
 
can see an example here, not bathurst globes but weld wheels look
 
 

 

Hey, what are these rear wheels off? The off set looks wrong as they sit to far inward, plus needs more tyre in my opinion.

No one here wants to see you waste money and end up annoyed with your end result. I’d be writing down your wants vs needs for the car, if I was 20 again I’d laugh at myself for saying that, but over the last 12 years of playing with my XD, I’ve changed direction so many times with things because I never really had an end goal with the finances I had.

For performance and wanting to chop your mates, like what has been said above a standard auto 302c XD is going to get smoked easy by the average new car, I’m not taking the piss but I’d bet my left nut a Ford 1.0 ecoboost would own it. A stock good running XD 302c took about 9 or so seconds to get to 100kmh, a camshaft and a tune isn’t going to get it down to 6 seconds...

If it was my car, I would pick a direction of either tidying the body up and putting some wheels on it and making it look mint OR spend money to make it sound and perform better. If you have a bit of this and a bit of that you may regret what you end up with.

Maybe just do a complete service on it, plugs, leads, oils and filters and then use the car for a bit, get use to it and then see what you’d like to do.






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Like these?

nah, ghia never had S pack spotlights..  i'd always go for the under bumper fog style ones like that red one above has. (they just look like hella rectangle ones)

 

those Sev Marchal ones are $500+ .. hard to justify

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Also what are those lights on the bumper called? Flood lights?

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Thanks for all the responses,

I dont want to shorten the axle, what's the widest tyres I can fit?

Can i use spacers? Is that a possibility.

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yeah if i had My way i'd go with 15x7 globes on the front and 15x10 globes on the rear with a shortened diff.. 
 
but it's your car. unless you have big brakes that need 17s, i'd keep 15s with fat sidewalls on the tyre.. but ... i'm old .. (old enough to know better? i drive a gemini... )
 

yeah if i had My way i'd go with 15x7 globes on the front and 15x10 globes on the rear with a shortened diff.. 
 
but it's your car. unless you have big brakes that need 17s, i'd keep 15s with fat sidewalls on the tyre.. but ... i'm old .. (old enough to know better? i drive a gemini... )
 

Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion

Just finished trying to fit 20" on the rear, just fit.
Anyone recommend any good rims that come in 19".


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I will go check them out. Are they custom made exhaust or pre made?

Hi-tech exhaust in Sunshine, Duane does a great job & isnt too expensive

Your mods may be limited to what you can bolt on externally. A cam swap sounds like something beyond what you're capable of right now. Maybe a mate that knows could help? Many shops wouldn't be willing to work on old clunkers like yours unless you're a cashed-up, retired baby-boomer re-living your youth. That said, a cam swap shouldn't take more than 2 hours in a competent shop with the right tools and attitude.

Things like carby, etc are pretty simple to bolt on. Diff assemblies maybe not, you need to bleed up brakes, adjust handbrake, etc so maybe diff place could do that as part of a diff build for you (even experienced people get them built up elsewhere). I don't know any places in your area that play with the old stuff so maybe someone local can help?

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When it comes to this I think there are 2 types of people, the ones who want to learn and have a go and others that are smart enough to realise when to leave it to someone else. I say secondhand because a Cleveland block can easily gobble up a couple of grand in machining and even more of the bores need sleeving. If a seller is legit they will have a receipt for the build and the engine builder should be open to talking to you about it and a quick refresh of rings and bearings and maybe revise the cam to suit you. Honestly, a cam, rebuild carb and exhaust will wake it up a tad but it still will have its doors blown off by a stock fg n/a falcon.

but yea your right a N/A bf will chop it. It's just to pick up and go a bit better nothing special.

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Shop around, a lot you could get second hand if your patient. What I described there is more of an older build from when I was playing with Cleveland’s 15 years ago. Try swap meets, you get some good buys at them.

all the black parts of the paint are easy, mask off, light sand, prepsol and paint in good quality satin black paint(i'd use supercheap acrylic pressure packs because it's easy to get another if one isn't enough) 
silver touch up pen on the door scratches, will take the in your face aspect away.. 
the rest need a bit more effort, and would be worth the effort but i wouldn't do it until you are happy to take it off the road for a while(that roof rust should be fixed properly.. or it will just come straight back in 12 months if bogged up again)
 
it's you're car, but we've seen hundreds of cars never finished once taken apart for resto/freshen up

I see only one way around this. Build an angry as hell clevo. 850dp on a single plane high rise, chi heads, crane f260/f246 solid cam, good set of forged pistons, 10.5-11:1 comp, 6 inch rods, fully balanced with pacemakers 4 into 1 with dual 3 inch collectors twin pipes with 1 magnaflow muffler in each dumped at the diff. 3500 stall c4, 3.89:1 diff. Spray fish oil on the body. Done

 
I would seriously resist any de-badging or removal of chrome.
That will only de-value an XD Ghia.
A proper bodywork and paint refurb, can get very very expensive - see Rod's thread.
 
Personally, I would only do mods, to the driveline and wheels/suspension.
 
In my experience, it's better to keep a vehicle original and honest looking (factory paint),
than try and do a cheap refurb/repaint.
 
Either way...
a theme, done with the interior and exterior kept factory looking, is always a winner.
 
 

sounds good, just keeping wax on the paint as is will keep it fine. My gemini wagon and sedan both have crows feet, etc and haven't got any worse since i've waxed them twice a year(i want to enjoy driving them, not risking taking them off the road to paint them... takes too long) 
 
sounds like a good plan to Me though. 
 
My XE ghia i removed all the side moulds etc. wonder what happened to that car after i sold it
 

don't get rid of any of the moulding or badges, the ghia is rare now, and down the track you or someone buying may want to try return it to stock .  
the ghia seat trim is also rare(i had a burgundy XD ghia with the grey trim and worn drivers seat 20yrs ago) was rare then.. keep the trim if you ever redo the seats in something else(seat cloth stores easier than the full seats if keeping them original other than the trim)
 
go buy a couple of big plastic tubs from supercheap and anything that comes off stash away for later. be worth something also down the track if not now. 

personally i'd just cruise it as is, you'll get a lot of respect for it as is i think

Nah I want to, dosnt look to good. Obviously keeping it silver but I'm going to de badge the whole thing and remove the chrome trim from the sides. Also do some work in the interior since the drivers seat etc has a couple holes in them as well as the headlining.
Does anyone know what colour interior this is, someone mentioned it to me a couple years ago but I have forgotten.

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12 hours ago, Thom said:

If it still has a standard timing set replacing it with an aftermarket unit will liven it up (the stock timing sets in pollution era clevo moved the cam timing and turned them into duds) that, a good tune and an exhaust is all I would bother with on a 302 especially if later down the track you want to build a 351 for it, but also if that is the plan you can buy things for the 302 you can use on the 351 later on (things like intake/ carb/extractors and ignition system) also there are good bargains to be had buying second hand, like extractors and such can be had many hundreds of dollars cheaper

And what's a timing set? Looked it up all that comes up is timing chains.