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Posts posted by BBS XE
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BXF1250A is listed in the Bosch catalag as 60A, I put one in mine a while ago and can confirm that it is 60A (better than the 45A that was in it lol). I've read on here that the internals of a VN to VR 85A alternator can be fitted into the crossflow case with a little modification.
wagoon reacted to this -
I'd recommend an Iwata AZ3 like this with a 1.8mm tip :
I bought one last year to do the Prem and XE with (haven't quite got around to either yet ), but have done a lot of bike stuff with it and a few odd car panels, all in acrylic.
I'm very impressed with the quality of it and it has saved me a fair bit of time in wet sanding and buffing compared to the SCA gun I was using previously.
They are an entry level Iwata gun made in Italy rather than Japan but spares and seal kits are available for them as with the dearer guns.
There are probably a few cheaper guns that would do the job, the Scorpion 2mm suction gun I use for primer would probably be reasonably good for top coats but I'm pretty happy with the Iwata for the price.
Pressure wise use 35 psi with the trigger pulled, run a regulator on the base of the gun so you can keep an eye on it.
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I got a secondhand EL one on mine, cost $20, smaller, more power. A spare engine I bought had a new chinese one on it that I used first, lasted 2 months.
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The only way I've fixed them is to pull the lifters and clean the crap out of them. If it's been sitting for a while, try driving the tits off it first. HPR30 is very very thick when it's cold.
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I use Australian Export tyre shine, looks better than the other cheap ones and lasts ok but does build up that brown coating, attracts dirt. Used to use the foam stuff on my parents car when I detailed it because they bought it, I don't think it lasted 24 hours. The white lettering paint pens from Supercheap etc don't last too well, flakes off. I bought a bottle of Mothers Tire Shine from Repco's chuck out bin for $2, must've been a dud batch or something.
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I don't touch Magnatec after opening up an engine that had been run with it for years, sludgy coating on everything, blocked up lifters. I'd agree with if it's smoking on start up only it would be stem seals, if it was rings it'd be either all the time or when you nail the throttle in my experience.
Trev Vaa and gerg reacted to this -
Make sure there's no shorts in your speaker wiring, the amp inside them turns off if there's anything wrong.
slydog reacted to this -
Don't think some bastard hasn't sabotaged it while it's been sitting? I know of someone who has had it done to them, luckily the bastards left a little oil behind so the owner knew something was up before he started the car. If it was burning that much oil you think you'd notice the smoke. Keep checking it more than usual anyway now that you've refilled it.
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I'd say $3k would only cover it if you do most if not all of it yourself, farming out any machine work you can't do at home. 650dp would drown it wouldn't it?
slydog reacted to this -
I had a cheap one in the KH Laser crapmobile I had on my Ps, I repainted the steel part of it cause it was rusty when I took it out the box. (horn button came with boss kit hehe)
steve mcqueen reacted to this -
I've tried steam cleaners on some of my old bombs before, useless. I've used truck wash and turtle wax brand upholstery cleaner with success. Pressure cleaner is great if you can be bothered taking the seats out.
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+1 On Sunbury Brakes kits.
Got this one when I converted to manual:
Good quality, and nicely priced.
XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this -
They used to be advertised on ebay new but I can't find them anymore. There should be constant 12v at the choke wire when the key is on, takes 5-10mins to open. The green housing of the element is warm to the touch after that time.
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I've seen stuff like that in a few cars, well Holdens mainly Just made things cheaper for them.
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Yep make sure you've got 12v at both choke and cut off solenoid.
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Yes, it is angled, thanks for that. I'll just have to find another shroud at the wreckers.
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Right, I'm noticing all this stuff in the factory manual I've just gotten. I'm pretty sure the radiator itself is the wider one.
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All the different shrouds and fans don't make a lot of sense to me, how much difference can they make?
Both my 6cyl carby XE Fairmonts have factory aircon, one of them has a shroud and the other doesn't, they both run at similar temps on the gauge.
The aircon in my main daily one (hasn't ever had a shroud as far as I know, must have had a new rad a long long time ago and the shroud not replaced? ) has been regassed and works but it's not that effective on really hot days, the other car with shroud on it needs regas so can't tell. Would the aircon perform better with one on? I guess it would cool the condenser better.
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I've heard of people re-oiling them, never attempted myself.
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I'd personally put the thermo fans on, they will probably never need replacing while the $100 new hub you can't be certain . One on my latest XE must be seized, just goes flat out regardless of temp.
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Well I gave it a good drive today to the rego inspection and back and the rattles gone, so I'm happy. Thanks for the help .
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Yeah LOL I think it's called: You Breaka My Car (or bike), I Breaka Your Face Disease
I put some dynagrip on the back of the pads today so I'll see what happens. Fuel line was rattling around on the passenger side too cause the grommet had fell out, maybe that's what it was!
revhead reacted to this -
Haha, nah I don't like other people touching her, I'm getting the aircon gassed soon as well. I went through it the other day and got the wiring sorted out (had all been disconnected) so the clutch will kick in with the low pressure switch bypassed. Shop would've sorted it for no charge probably but I just didn't want them pulling trims off and risk damaging anything.
I'd say you're probably right about the spacer plates making the noise, I think I can remember them being a loose fit over the pad when I put them in a few months back. If I get a chance tommorow I'll have a look. Cheers.
revhead reacted to this
Alternators for crossflow...WTF
in Auto Electrics
Posted
Getting hard to find anything new that's any good. I should of added that the BXF1250A I'm using was an old stock Australian one. Last 2 Bosch starters I've bought were made in bloody Brazil, they've been working fine for 12 months now but I doubt they'll last as long as the originals.