XFChris

Yep what Mr Polson said, allows air bubbles to get past while the thermostat is still closed. Might even allow a small amount of coolant to trickle through, can't be a bad thing. Some other companies have a hole like that on their OEM thermostats. I don't suppose one can get a thermostat through ford still?

+1 on kitting the factory calipers, remember the seals are around 20+ years old, and not sealing as good as fresh ones. New standard rotors (if you need them), decent set of pads, and fresh brake fluid should set you right. And don't underestimate the distance you need to brake too.

Sounds more like a cooling system blockage, or a gauge inaccuracy. I hear thermostats can get stuck open or closed, but never heard of one opening at different temps. How does temp look in traffic on a hot day?

I've had an issue with the handbrake on a XF ute (drum brake rear end) ever since I bought it. Handbrake wouldn't hold the car at all, so I worked on the adjuster (under the drivers seat), which was near maxed out. I pretty much maxed it out. The handbrake will hold if i pull the handbrake cable without pressing the orange button, but if i press the orange button then pull the handbrake, then the handbrake won't hold the car on a slope. Can the handbrake also be adjusted at the drums? Or is it likely I'd need new shoes or possibly drums?

Not sure what part I'd need Ando, car is going for a RWC check tomorrow, so they'll tell me what parts I need hopefully and I'll let you know. Thanks for the tip about the spring loaded cable+bracket, I might need to hunt for the parts at wreckers soon.

I also would go for 2nd hand paceys, you may get them cheaper. The extractors you listed have a rather small outlet (2 inch). I'd go for something that has a 2.25 - 2.5" inch outlet.

I'll keep an eye on the switch in that case. I'm also going to change the mixer from a ring type to the NZ AMOS type, I think the gas needs a tune anyway.

Was idling at 1400 on fuel and 1000 on gas this morning, I wound down idle to 650 on gas. I'll check earths on the safety switch, next, at times it doesn't light up with ignition on. I'm hoping the problem is an easy fix like that

Good tips in here. I use white vinegar to soak dirty metal parts in. Soak them overnight and you can get them reasonably clean with a light scrub. WD40 works good for cleaning your hands after working on a car. Then finish up with whatever cleaner you usually use.

Found a good used one and choke works as it should now. If you're going to look for a choke from the wreckers: -bring a multimeter with you -take the choke housing off the carb -set the multimeter to continuity -probe the stud where the 12V+ would connect to, and probe the metal strip on the side of the choke housing -if the multimeter reads close to 0, you should be good to go -if the multimeter reads 1, it;s no good.

I've noticed that as I let my car warmup, the choke plate doesn't open up more as the car warms up (250 Xflow) The car also will stay on fast idle permanently. I have ran a test light from the 12V+ which goes to the electric choke housing, and connected it to the threaded part of the housing, and I got no light at all... Would I have a failed coil/bimetallic spring in the choke? Can you get new ones these days?

Thanks guys, I'll probably go for an aftermarket amp then.

I've noticed that Z series fairlanes, and maybe X series Fairmonts have a factory amp located under the centre console. Would one of those be possible to wire into a lower spec model? I have an XF GL. I'm only going to run 4" fronts and 6*9' for the rear. I'd like a small amp for some extra kick in the audio. My XF is a ute so places to mount a big aftermarket amp are limited. Having it hidden from plain sight is a very big plus.

Choke wire is good, constant 12V with the engine running. I think the issue may be at the threaded part of the choke element housing, it only seems to pass through 6-8 volts. Also a continuity test showed that from the threaded part, to the other side of the housing, current wont flow. I'll try and find another used one and see how I go.

Does the clutch slip noticeably? A good way to test is to find a spot to park, handbrake on, put it into a high gear (3rd and up should do), then slowly let out the clutch. If the car stalls you're good. I've heard the clutch cables can stretch too.

I've had both drums off, drums look good on the inside, lots of meat on the shoes and no leaks from the wheel cylinders. I also adjusted the shoes as the drums came off very easily. No effect on the handbrake though... I'll have to replace the cable, who is a good supplier these days?

My 250 xflow on dual fuel currently has an AMR M180 Mixer (donut? type, the housing blocks off half of each barrel on the 34 ADM carb. I've got an AMOS mixer (picture below) to go on, as it looks less restrictive. After changing mixers, do I need to tune the converter? (Its a Romano of some sort) And what is a good sealant to seal the mixer to the Air cleaner housing? My AMR unit was sealed on with silastic, PITA to remove it. The AMOS mixer came off the donor car much easier, and had some translucent yellowish sealant.

Can the cable stretch without fraying? The cable did seem to be a little slack. Big job to replace it?

Does that Camtech CT142 503B-110(A) run out of puff at 3000 revs? Sounds like rev range is similar to a stock cam, can't really rev a stocko past 3750... Does that camtech cam keep the stock rev ranges, but adds more torque and power over the stock cam? And did it use much more fuel?

Forgot to mention I had the air cleaner , and the LPG mixer off while testing/running it on fuel. I'll let you all know how it goes after it's fully back together.

I've got a 250 Xflow in an XF, on duel fuel, wasn't running on fuel when I got it. Unless aerostart/petrol is poured down the carb, then it will run for a few seconds. I first saw that fuel was not even getting to the petrol lock off solenoid, found out the mechanical fuel pump was dead. Replaced that with an electric one, and fuel is now getting through the solenoid, but seems to be stopping at the carb. Pumping the accelerator doesn't squirt any fuel into the carb like a good carby would do. I haven't opened up the carby yet. I'm not sure how to remove the base plate of the air cleaner housing. It might not help that my lpg mixerhas been siliconed onto the air cleaner housing base plate. Any tips guys?

All diaphgrams were replaced with new ones out of the kit. Choke seems to be setup correctly now (fully closed with car off, start it up and it will crack open a tad) I bottomed out the vac nudger screw, car won't cut out after giving it a rev, back off the screw a few turns and it does it again. I've left it at about 2 turns from the bottom. Idle is a bit rough too, varys about 50 or so rpm each way.

Finally got around to rebuilding the carby and fitting up new fuel line and fittings. It now will start on fuel, and will idle (although somewhat fast) It cuts out after i let go of the throttle after giving it a rev. I'll need to double check that I've hooked up vac lines right, and maybe play with idle speed, and maybe even rewire the choke.

Finally got the carb off, now to rekit it... Thanks all for your help!

Been busy over the past few days, though I squeezed in a bit of time to work on the XF. I finally broke the seal on the mixer, which revealed a bolt and nut holding the air cleaner bottom on. I'll take them off another day as the sun is setting and the wind blew the bonnet onto my head. Is my mixer a decent one? I'm planning to go a tow cam later on, and I'll keep this mixer if I can This hose looks pretty average, going to get LPG recertified soon, would they replace the hoses, or do they only check the tank?