XFChris

No clamps used here as the fittings are Barb type. I assumed only one or the other is required. Maybe I'll throw some clamps on if that helps.

Gauge acquired: Seemed to be making 6.5 psi on idle, about 10cm from the carb. Which means the check valve on the T piece should never have opened (supposed to be 7.25 psi) Fuel Pressure Regulator Acquired: Have set fuel pressure to 4.5 psi at carb. I still need to set idle mix and roadtest. Current setup below, not pretty but does the job

I've heard a stock weber on a stock xflow (Which is what I've heard) really only needs 4psi or so, is that correct? I've been getting real bad fuel econ... 23L/100km mixed cycle driving. How about a cheap fuel pressure reg for my application, such as these below http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-9-psi-Adjustable-Universal-Deadhead-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Chrome-/310873286598?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48617de7c6&_uhb=1 and http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLLEY-STYLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-CHROME-ADJUSTABLE-/261209217499?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd14859db&_uhb=1

I have put in a Solid State/Electronic dizzy. The car now starts like it should, and stayed running for the good half hour while I was setting timing. I'll roadtest sometime next week and update.

Tried to take the XF for a drive last night, wouldn't start so gave up and went back indoors. Tried again today, no start still. Checked for spark and was none. Wiggled the plug on the Dizzy which I think goes to EST unit, after that it was able to start. I saw that the spark was orange. Switched it off, took off dizzy cap and rotor to clean them up a bit with emery paper. Put them back on. Took a bit of cranking to start, but it did. I'm thinking the EST plug, or the unit itself is the issue. I may give cleaning the EST computer plugs a try, contact cleaner fine to use? Though I am tempted to find a solid state dizzy and put that in.

Plug on dizzy looked good on the inside, no sign of corrosion of terminals. EST module was dry as a bone from what I could see/feel. I had a look at the dizzy cap and rotor button today. Both looked like they had been in service for some time. Will replace soon.

You mean the plug on the EST dizzy. I didnt see a module on the dizzy itself. I'll check the EST computer too, if it has wetness, is it rubbish, or can I use a water dispersant on it?

Whacked a new (fuelmiser) coil on tonight. Old one was a Bosch, looks like its been on the car for some years. Back to Pressure Gauges, would it matter if the gauge is liquid filled or not? I'd probably spend no more than $40 for a a gauge.

Ill get a gauge sorted in the.coming Weeks. I am also having spark issues ill fix them first then reconnect the fuel return line. Maybe my issues with cutting out and power loss are spark related.

I have a EST dizzy. Would it be a faulty EST computer, or something in the actual dizzy?

If it was the fuel cut solenoid playing up, then in theory the car should still be able to start and run on LPG when it dies on petrol. but that wasn't the case today. It has always started ok from dead cold on petrol. I'm thinking it's now something that fails when it gets hot. Could the coil be the culprit?

Sometimes the battery light goes out as soon as it starts. I'll do a few alternator tests over the weekend. A few guys have suggested it could be an alternator issue. Might be a good chance for me to upgrade to 55/60A. Also, do EST dizzy's tend to randomly fail, then work again after some time? EDIT: A voltage check with car running shows: At battery 13.1V At alternator 14.03 V Significant voltage drop, I'll have to check the connections.

I will get a gauge soon, any brand will do? Or should I at least get a aeroflow, or a marshall like ILIED linked? I will probably delete the return line filter once I hook up return line again. And relocate the primary filter to between the fuel pump, and the hard fuel supply line. A clacker type pump like mine shouldn't generate debris, or am I wrong there? How would I run the return line with no check valve? I would need a way to restrict flow to the return line so I don't starve the carb. Just a very small I/D barb? Or is there a better way to do this?

Oddly enough the vapor lock hasn't reoccured since deleting the t piece and return line. Could be that the check valve is faulty. Here are some MS paint diagrams of my fuel set up. As it's probably hard for the rest of you to visualise my setup in full.(Blue lines indicate rubber hose. Grey are the OEM hard lines) Initial and Current setup Setup with T piece

Don't mean to hijack, but how about the MSD Streetfire + TFI combo on a dual fuel Crossflow?

Yeah I had check valve on return line only.

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge at the motor. Maybe at idle, the fuel demand at bowl is much less than 6psi, so pressure builds up in the fuel line? Or I had the check valve pointing the wrong way.around? I had the arrow on it pointing in the direction of fuel flow back to tank.

This is the fuel pump I bought: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-New-/130721428894?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f9ab59e Just realised it is a solid state. Must be different from a facet in some way. Forgot to take a pic of mine, but I've put mine where stock mechanical pump would sit. In engine bay down low. (Below cyl head level) I haven't run a regulator yet as I assumed the regulator is just there to set an upper limit of fuel pressure, or is there more to regulator than that? I.E. does it stabilise fuel pressure somehow. Pics of T piece as follows.The Tpiece is currently disconnected at the two opposing ends. But you may be able to picture what it would look like Teed into the hose with the blue sheath on it.

Vid to show how much flow fuel return line gets at idle. Where is the fuel return line off the carb? I have a XF, but haven't noticed a return line off it. Maybe my carb is off an earlier model for all I know. The car's stumbling got worse over the course of the drive, before eventually dying at a set of lights and not being able to restart. After a wait in a nearby carpark it was able to start again. It's not the electric pump itself that is causing the issue. I now think it's a combination of fuel getting too hot, and not enough pressure. I have now deleted the fuel return line, and the car drives decent again. In no way am I saying that my current setup (no return line to fuel tank) is ideal. I need to investigate why I was having issues after setting up the fuel system as it should be. Perhaps the check valve is faulty? Maybe I need one that cracks at a higher psi. Maybe my fuel pump isn't cut out for the job (From memory the ebay listing said it was about 6 or 7 psi). Or maybe someone in the past has tinkered with the motor, making it need more fuel than others do. I'll road test it again when ambient temps rise again, as my latest test was around 7:30pm. Lower ambient temp may have had some effect on making the car run nicer.

Road testing has not gone too well. I am getting vapor lock issues and stumbling under load. (which I assume is due to insufficent fuel pressure at the carb) -I've then insulated the fuel line from the T piece to the carb, but it hasn't made a noticeable difference to stumbing. -I may need to insulate the return line ( as it starts from where the charcoal canister is). Or I need to look into using a higher PSI check valve. I'll just go back to my old setup with no T piece for now and see if it runs nicely on petrol again.

The fuel filter I have on the return line has a clear housing. Check valve is fixed at 7.25psi. Lots of fuel flowing back to the tank at idle. I might take a vid sometime.

My fuel pump is a cheap 'facet' style off ebay. It looks the same as the GOSS pumps SCA sell but without the branding. I have changed my fuel system a bit, no pics as my phone camera won't play ball ATM. After the pump, I have put in a hydraulic T piece. One outlet runs direct to the carb, with a Ryco Z14 filter in place. The other outlet has a 0.5 bar check valve put in, which runs to the factory fuel return line to tank, I put a cheap SCA brand filter in the rubber hose there. Pump is not that much quieter, but idle seems a little smoother. I haven't done a road test yet. I got my t piece, check valve and barbs from Pirtek for just under $50 all up.

What does the check valve setup look like? I didn't spot a pic of it in Rob's thread. Also, what PSI check valve?

Is your fuel pump still good? A trick I saw a mate do was to block the intake completely while cranking the car to build enough vaccuum to suck fuel into the carb. You can either block off the intake snorkel on the air cleaner, or take off the air cleaner and use a plastic cup over the carb airhorn. But you need a working fuel pump for the above to work.

Thanks guys. I'm new to the world of fittings, regulators and such. So i'd just need to go to the fitting shop, and ask for a fitting with a relief? Or is the setup more complex than that?