XFChris

Sorry for the hijack, but did someone say you can run e series ecu with a efi crossflow?

Go by the book, or instructions in aftermarket gear. Though that said, I've only ever bolted on one head (not a ford one), and that was done via the following method. -Do all head bolts hand tight (I did this in 2 passes, also, if there is a sequence to follow, follow it) -Torque headbolts up to specified nm -Mark all headbolts with a paint marker or such (all the markings should be identical, ie: pointing 12 o clock -Torque all headbolts an additional 90 degrees CW in sequence (use the dots as a reference, they should all line up once done -Torque all headbolts a further 90 degrees CW in sequence So far the HG seems to be ok Make sure you take your time, follow the torquing sequence, and have a fairly accurate torque wrench

Really cool. I'd be interested to see the difference they make on a 250 and OHC ford 6.

I've heard a Valiant air cleaner does the job too, same diameter as the 250 xflow one, but taller. I really should look into it, as I've raised my lid up a bit to accommodate my LPG mixer.

Clevo120Y: Putting holes in the air cleaner housing would make it a hot air intake right? AFAIK hot air is good for economy, and cold air good for power. Though as it pulls from the intake manifold side, maybe the air there isn't that hot. Or is any extra air going in, regardless of its temp, a good thing for power? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On a different note, I've heard a 2 1/4 catback system is ideal for a stock, or very mild crossflow. Though it needs to high flow. I've even heard of people getting gains on a 2" catback on a stock xflow. Of course you want to pair that with a good cat (if legally required) and extractors. The stock exhaust manifold doesn't look like it flows too well.

Cheap is subjective. But good spark goes a long way, particularly if running lpg. Use a Bosch HEC716 (OEM coil AFAIK) or better. Made a difference on my car.

EST will work fine, that's what I am using. If the E series dizzy does not have mechanical weights in it, then it should be fine to use. Any locked dizzy will work with the 6AL-2, you need a locked dizzy so you can program a timing retard curve properly.

Go the 6AL-2 Programmable The distributors are curved to suit petrol on factory. LPG works best with more initial advance than petrol, but total advance needs to be less than petrol for best results. Can't do that by turning a factory distributor, you will bring up both initial and total advance. Plus the programmable features gives you flexibility for future mods, simply plot a new curve to suit. You can even hook a laptop up to it, tune it in between doing some road testing (in a safe quiet area of course) Got mine up and running this past weekend, still just running locked timing. Car is more torquey now, and have not heard it misfire while driving, used to misfire fairly often before. I'm sure it will get better once I throw a timing curve in.

I've been having intermittent issues with my Dual fuel XF ute ever since I bought it. -Firstly, the car sometimes won't start when switched to LPG (on purchase it wasn't running on fuel) -If the car is left idling for a while on LPG, it sometimes cuts out, and may or may not be able instantly restart on LPG -There's been a few times where it has cut out on coming to a stop, and once where it died while moving , all on LPG -Idle speed on LPG is significantly lower than idle speed on Petrol The gas system was installed in 1996 and has not been retested AFAIK. Would the cutting out be related to the gas safety switch? I have the type pictured here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LPG-Safety-switch-Peel-/330960572261?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0ec98f65 And LPG idle speed wound down too low on the converter?

Yep I'm 10 mins from Berwick. What sort of system did you have done? Price include fitting extractors?

Got a different converter on now and had it tuned properly. idle speed is pretty much same between the two fuels now. The cutting out was due to a faulty LPG safety switch, which has since been replaced.

Gotta be careful with running return lines controlled by check valve. Check valve has to be a quality one, test it too with air if you can. I had issues when I tried that sort of set up, which I think came down to faulty check valve. It works well for guys who run pumps like holley blue and red.

I'd consider making my own if I knew how to weld. Might organise an exhaust soon, getting tired of driving an XF with a standard exhaust, it's a little too quiet for my liking

I blanked off where my mechanical pump was, with a EFI xflow blanking plate, I slacked off and didn't use a gasket or sealer, doesn't seem to leak.

My XF 250 xflow has got a an issue where it sometimes cuts out, and isn't able to restart for sometime It did it today, a few times slowing down the engine cut out as I slowed down to a low speed in a higher gear, but the engine came back to life as I clutched out in a lower gear. It then died at an intersection and would not start again for 10-15 mins. It's a dual fuel car and didn't want to start on either fuel until 10-15 min later, was running on petrol as it played up. Why do I suspect electrical issue? Compression: Obviously there as the engine came back to life afterward Air: Had a new air filter put in a month or so ago, it can't be dirty enough to choke the motor Fuel: Fuel pump (electric) seemed to still be operating when the car wasn't able to restart, fuel lines felt pressurised and accelerator pump was audibly pumping fuel. Spark: Wasn't able to check for spark at the break down site, but I think this is the issue I'm running the stock igniton system AFAIK, only thing that has been replaced recently is the plugs with the correct spec ones. -Coil doesn't look new -Dizzy would be a EST from factory, no idea of its condition, or that of the rotor cap and button -Leads looked ok on visual inspection (no deterioration of boots) -No idea about alternator, I do get the battery light coming on when I start the car, and it sometimes stays on until I give a rev. What item is likely to be causing my issue, and how would I be able to test it? I don't want to spend an arm and leg playing the elimination game. Managed to limp the car home by starting it (once it decided it wanted to start) and revving it while stopped, got it home, turned it off then back on, and it idled fine, wtf?

Set timing, as the guys above have.said. If you still run rough, tune the carb. If you can't tune it, rebuild it. A kit should cost around 70 bucks

What is it leaking between the carb top and middle plates? Fuel? Air? Air would cause it to idle a bit rough, but high too. I think 600 rpm is a bit low for an auto to idle at. Try adjusting idle speed up to 700 rpm. Then adjust the air/fuel mix screw if idle is still rough. I'm not sure about the timing. Do you mean you set it at warm idle one day, then check it later on while idling warm, and the timing has changed?

You'll want to reco the motor to get the most out of any mod you do to it. What sort of conditions is it burning oil under? You could do intake and exhaust now if you like, as you can unbolt these to put on a fresher motor. But you'll only want to put a cam into a healthy motor.

There's always next weekend. If you know what size the fittings on the pump are, you can grab new fuel lines now. And get hose clamps too.

How about this guys? I'll delete the fuel pressure reg. Then switch to a 34adm with the fuel return port, then run a return line from there. Would prevent the carb over pressuring, and the pump from having to relieve excess pressure. Thoughts?

Let us know how you go Ando81. Someone mentioned in here that fuel pumps relieving internally wastes fuel, I might have another go at running a fuel return line (using a different check valve) so there isn't too much pressure build up between the fuel pump and regulator.

You're welcome to ask as many questions as you like here Ando81, this thread is open to input from all ozfalcon users If you want a cheap setup, just get yourself a solid state pump off ebay, new fuel lines and hose clamps if needed. Plumb it all in, earth the pump, and take 12v feed from the fuel cut solenoid 12v feed, or wire it to a switch you manually control. The above will get you from A to B and C (I haven't tried D yet) if plumbed and wired properly. Might be a bit heavy on fuel usage but probably not a issue for you as you use LPG most of the time. I run this pump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-New-/130721428894?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f9ab59e&_uhb=1 I have it mounted roughly where the mechanical pump goes. It makes a bit of noise when you switch the pump on, but seems to quieten down a bit once it gets fuel flowing through it, I barely hear it, if at all. while the car is running.

Are those alloy head only extractors? They present well, most of that charge is probably labour costs, try a few other places to see if you get a better quote.

Not harmful to paint in any way? Or takes wax off?

Hose clamps have been added to all ends of the fuel line Fixed a fuel leak at the reg, and fuel pressure is now at just above 4 psi. Car is idling almost smooth now (idle was a bit erratic previously) No problems on a the short roadtest I did. Just need to set the air.fuel mix now.