Reasons why you'd do this: - Cheap and easy to get (roughly $110 from Ripco trade) - Extra clearance to headers - Easier, lighter to fit/remove - Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty.   Downsides: - You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new. - You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course) - Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed. - Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways). - You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8.   Anyway....   Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8")     Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one.     Front view     Roughed out with the hackasaurus (Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face).   Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file:     Top view:   You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all.   Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm).   Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk