FALCONSTIEN

When I did my engine swap. I had the power steer box in, sat the driver side extractor in the bay and lowered the motor in. I would have never got it in there with motor in position. Bolting the pipes up was the worst part of the the swap. You have to try to center your mind into a meditation like state and contort you self into yoga type positions. But when it starts up its all worth it.

Spot on paint repairs in Fyshwick are good.

Be careful with small cheap welders, check the minimum amps it can run at for thin panel steel. Some won't have the working range, a lot of the cheaper ones only go down to around 40 amps. The more expensive ones do have the capability to drop low enough for.8mm steel. That's why I was looking at the 135 cigweld as it can go as low as 17amps by memory and your not spending too much.

Weldskill. It's been great. I'm no pro welder but I've had a crack at panels, exhausts, made a rear strut brace for the dato, and fixed a trowel for the father-in-law (bonus points).

When I was looking at getting a mig, I did some research and saw some good reviews about the cig weld 135 and it was in the budget. Comes with a 10 amp plug which I needed. So off to the shop I went to pick one up. I had been filling holes in the engine bay and it was doing a good job. (Still have to be careful on thin steel). At the end of the day packing up my new machine I noticed it had a 150 sticker on it. Moral to the story is I got a 150 in a 135 box. Bargain!

G'day again, Trying to get the new Clevo started. When trying, it turned over a few times then the starter sounded like it was stripping teeth. Question is- can I use a C4 starter on a T5 with a 10.5 clutch? If so does it need a spacer or should it work as is? Cheers

Hi everyone, Just wondering if any one has had issues with clearance on the power steering box when fitting pacemaker headers to a Clevo in an xb? They are on, all the bolts are in and tight and the headers are just touching the steering box. Thinking I might be able to hopefully loosen all the mount bolts and shove the motor over a bit. I hope I can get a couple of mm out of it. Do you think this will be enough? Cheers

That's a concern. Today I bought a proflow mechanical pump, 100gph, hope it does the job.

Hi All, I am currently swapping a stock 351 out of my XB. The motor I am replacing it with is a rebuilt 351 and moderately worked, it was making 250 rwkw in the XD it was in. The XD had an electronic fuel pump. My question is do you think a hi volume mechanical fuel pump and standard fuel line will feed enough fuel? Has anyone got any first hand experience with these HV mechanical fuel pumps? Cheers

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Scooped.....

I changed mine from power to manual. Different box and pitman. I bolted the box in, the column only lines up with the box one way. Then I sat in the car worked out the lock to lock I think it was about 5.25 turns. Then halved it. Cable tied the wheel at that position to the indicator stalk. Then eyed the wheels straight. Hoped back under the car and very carefully slid the pitman arm back on the box spline. I then had to reposition the steering wheel on the column spline. Drives straight as a nail as I didn't adjust any tie rods or anything

I run twin gas research on my 351c with centrifugal blower. max boost 9 psi. single lockoff, single line to 't' piece spit to each side. I was worried it would run way too lean. took it to a gas tuner with experience performance gas tuning. they dyno tuned it, check the mixtures adjusted the timing abit and said it was fine. i said are you sure? they said i could boost it more and it was very confortable. made just over 300hp at the wheels.