bear351c

Not sure about the position / location of the bolts. Vice grips on the bolt head Weld an old bolt/nut onto the existing one Hacksaw/grinding disc Leave overnight with some penetrating fluid on it (best found is 50/50 Acetone and ATF) HEAT is always your friend Do it up a little, undo, do it up, undo slightly more this time, do it up, undo it more again.......

Looks like a Brinnel hardness test gone wrong, as Thom said, and someone didn't use sleeves over the rod bolts when installing the pistons. (Small chatter marks). The crank should be OK if it was in a running engine, it would have failed by now for sure. Just need to make sure there are no sharp edges around the dents, use a 5 or 6 mm drill bit BY HAND, and slower chamfer the 'holes' then linish the journals with some emery tape etc.

Normally around 3 degrees as Sparky Dave suggested. Honestly, it can be 2 -5* as long as your diff angle is the same, but opposite direction. stick angle gauge on manifold with carby off, engine fully installed, or transmission shaft hanging out the back of trans, should be angled 3* down, so make sure the diff is 3* up.

Yes, the holes do land outside the reinforcing on some Falcons. Weld a small tab of steel on so the bolt sits flat, or as @SPArKy_Dave suggested, there are other options available.

Guess you buy one for an XB, and cut it down.? They are masonite with a bit of foam, or hessian on them, I think.

Looks like the weight of the engine is pushing the 2 mounts in towards each other. When they're bolted in they tend to "hang" spreading apart. As Chestnut said, the aftermarket Clevo sumps can be a bad fit, I've fitted a couple, and had to trim, grind, elongate holes etc. It's just symptom of the non genuine market. Got an old original sump you can slide in, just to see if it fits better.??

WOW.......... One of the best looking small Fords, built the way YOU wanted it. The retro seat cover material on the Recaros looks ace. Did you end up with something to cover the rear of the back seat, form inside the boot.?? Just so you can't see the frame. Credit to you, mate. Excellent results.

Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO. Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.

Could be points bounce, could be coil, could be vacuum leak, could be timing, could be old fuel, could be spark leads, could be i got no idea what I'm talking about. Let us know what ya find..... Love this little Esky. ...........and this one too.!

All depends on what you want the car for..... 3.45 is a good all round ratio for economy and sprint off the line, most Clevo Automatics are 3 speed, (FMX, C4 etc) in XA, XD and similar vehicles. If you plan on going on 1200 kms trips, then you need more of a lower ratio, say 3.00 or even 2.92. The Clevo will be happy at 110km/h with a 3.45, but the revs will be slightly higher, so more fuel used and possibly a lot more noise in the cabin. I'm running 3.55 in my XB, with an FMX, and absolutely love it. But I wouldn;t drive from Perth to Sydney in it.

Yeah, not convinced. I did mine last year on the XA, absolute bitch to get the rubber seal in place, while holding the timing cover, lining up the dowel pins, etc.. I sanded off the small lip on the outside of the rubber, (made it thinner) and it went in easier. VERY clean is the key.! Paint thinners or acetone to remove all oil residue. Silastics/sealants wont stick to oil. Also, aftermarket sumps don't fit the best, prefer old originals.

Dont worry too much about the fitting/terminal, just cut off the spade or whatever on your wiring, and solder on the correct terminal for the sender. Clevo temp sender usually goes in the front of the block, left hand side of the water pump. Sounds like you just need the sender to operate in a different range. @SPArKy_Dave Do you know what Ohms etc might suit..?

FC LTD and other Fairlanes had a "variable rate" power steering box, easy in the carparks, but got firmer as speed increased. Got one in the shed, was thinking about shoving it in my XA. The Fc (XD) power steering pumps are different, so none of the bracketry/pulleys fit on my Clevo, so i shelved it for another day....... Or year......

Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words). Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.

Could well be. As Sparky Dave said, you need the Resistor coil, for anything with contact points. Doesn't matter if it's a "coke can" or a T -coil, as long as it has the R after the GT40.