Butcha

Single rails fine. The v8 has a wider ratio in 1st n second all finish up 1:1. In 4th. Just dont go flat changin through the gears and they live alright. Get new nylon/alluminium bushing for shifter. You can use the single rail bellhousing on a t5. Get the input shaft snout thing spun down to fit. Drill and tap 3 holes and drill n nut n bolt the 4th on the webbing. Go t5 if you can get one else single rail will do. Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

thatd be sweet if you could pm me their details

yeah mate whys that

So just doin some research before i start me xe build.. I have a 10 sec time slip in mind so my understanding is i need a rollcage so if i go with andra.. ANDRA specs:6.2.0 Four Point Roll Cage 6.2.1 A Four Point roll cage (Figure 2) is the minimum roll cage specification that is required in the following vehicle: a)A Utility vehicle with a quarter mile ET of 8.00 seconds or slower. or 6.3.0 Six Point Roll Cage 6.3.1 A Six Point roll cage (Figure 3) is the minimum roll cage specification that is required in the following vehicles: a)All vehicles not listed above with a quarter mile ET of 11.00 seconds or quicker. NCOP states MODIFICATIONS NOT COVERED UNDER CODE LK8 Installation of four-point roll-cages, which convert to six-point roll-cages for off-road use; and Registration Authorities may allow the use of specialised or six-point roll-cages for competition purposes. However, in these cases, the vehicles to which they are fitted have restricted access to the road system or are conditionally registered. Persons who wish to fit specialised or six-point roll-cages for competition or other purposes must consult with their respective Registration Authority for further information. These types of roll-cages are not covered by Code LK8. so to hang within the law id basically have to go with a bolt in cage and trailer the thing there? is my info correct? IHRA only specs 4 point cage down to 8.5 secs... what happens if you "accidentally" break into the 10 secs bracket with no cage?

I assume you had the aod the non electronic ones? Im looking at putting the electronic version in with lockup converter which has a controller vs tv cable. From what i can find they are easy and cheap to beef up for 650+hp. Did you have extractors on em? Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

Has any one put one of these into an xe? I know they are bigger than the c4/c6/fmx box..might foul on the trans tunnel? It will go behind me 393 clevo with 4.11 diff. Will prob need a 4-5000 stall to complete the deal. Cheers Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

I always put the balancer on 30deg adv drop the dizzy in make sure its point straight at #1 post n it fires up 99% time worry bout timing after the rest of the checks. Electronic distrib has a start and finish line on the black cover below rotor to help with install. Put the rotor on start and drop it in it will end up on the finish bolt er up n crank er. If im running a cam in i normally hookup a set of jumperleads to a second batt to save muckin around with timing. Faster crank faster start. Helps with spark too. Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

Got pretty much all the gear so should have somthin goin by end of the weekend. I have ordered 6 ign1a coilpacks so sequential injection and cop are in the works. Fair bit of rewiring to do to make it happen. Ideally id like to see 600rwhp out of this setup since im no longer fuel limited but i dont know whether the intake/unported head will get me there Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

bit of an update.. blowthrough not going ahead due to not fitting in the car properly my shock tower in the car has been pushed over some and the redline manifold i have sticks out a bit which meant i have to have 4" worth of spacers for the throttle shafts to clear the tower which meant it couldn't fit under the bonnet. so im going back to EFI. so ill be running 6x 220lb injectors and 1x160lb injector to cool intake. ordered a belt driven pump to remove all the electric fuel pumps etc. no more fuel supply issues as i will have enough for 1800hp and no leaning out if i throw an alternator belt. I am monitoring individual egt's through the megasquirt which i should be able to use as a failsafe to prevent holes appearing like last time. Looking at adding a crank trigger so i can run sequential injection and balance the cylinders via egts which should help with harmonics maybe. Should give me better spark as well.

Trying to track down any photos or info on fitting a crank trigger to these things. I seen a post somewhere someone put a crank trigger behind the balancer and wondered if they spaced it out or ground the timing cover out even what trigger they used. Any body in the know here?

Google and have a read of turbotech 101, 102, 103 if you want the specifics on how to size turbo correctly. Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57b002dbc527f/garrett_nomenclature.gif

Might take you up on that ando.. dont get back home till thurs. I got presents waitin for me apparently.

Flat tops. Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

Chasing a .020 acl race series piston if anyone has leftovers that is still usable from a blown up engine. The bottom end that i blew the arse out of one piston has e series rods,arp bolts and the block has been o ringed and grouted so id like to resuse that if i can. Otherwise ill try and chase .030 pistons. Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk I should add they are 3.9 rods ea/b? Ill check when i get home.