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Tom Whatling

Fuel Consumpiton High

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It seems my 1994 XG Ute seems to be using quite a bit of fuel. I seems to be getting roughly 340kms from a 68l tank this seems a bit high but maybe its just because shes and older bus. Any help would be appreciated.

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25 minutes ago, Tom Whatling said:

It seems my 1994 XG Ute seems to be using quite a bit of fuel. I seems to be getting roughly 340kms from a 68l tank this seems a bit high but maybe its just because shes and older bus. Any help would be appreciated.

where does the temp gauge sit?

 

thermostat stuck open or removed will mean the engine runs too cold (and the computer adds more fuel like a "choke" .. a LOT more fuel) 

 

can also be caused by the clutch fan being locked up, usually notice the engine feels gutless also if so.

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7 hours ago, Tom Whatling said:

It seems my 1994 XG Ute seems to be using quite a bit of fuel. I seems to be getting roughly 340kms from a 68l tank

 

68/3.4 = 20L/100km

This screams 'dead o2 sensor' to me.

 

XG original Ford o2 sensors were either Bosch or NTK branded.

Around town, an OHC powered Falcon should return about 12-13L/100km

 

Coolant in the exhaust will kill an o2 sensor, new or old.

 

For fuel efficiency, the OHC engine ECU's monitor at o2, MAP sensor, TPS, and coolant temperature

 

Start with a new o2 sensor,  (use NTK or Bosch brand only)

plus check for the correct coolant temperature (cold will run rich).

Factory thermostat is 92degrees.

 

Then if it still needs improvement, get the injectors serviced,

and/or fit a new MAP sensor.

 

Aim for around 12-13L/100km around town, and 10-11L/100km freeway driving.

 

 

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68/3.4 = 20L/100km
This screams 'dead o2 sensor' to me.
 
XG original Ford o2 sensors were either Bosch or NTK branded.
Around town, an OHC powered Falcon should return about 12-13L/100km
 
Coolant in the exhaust will kill an o2 sensor, new or old.
 
For fuel efficiency, the OHC engine ECU's monitor at o2, MAP sensor, TPS, and coolant temperature
 
Start with a new o2 sensor,  (use NTK or Bosch brand only)
plus check for the correct coolant temperature (cold will run rich).
Factory thermostat is 92degrees.
 
Then if it still needs improvement, get the injectors serviced,
and/or fit a new MAP sensor.
 
Aim for around 12-13L/100km around town, and 10-11L/100km freeway driving.
 
 



Don't use Bosch. Modern Bosch parts are shit quality, made cheap, and have enormous failure rates. They are nowhere near the company they used to be.

With thermostat, if not on gas check it's the correct "foot" type one - these block the bypass when the engine gets to temp. I think DT18F is the part number off the top of my head.

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2 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

Don't use Bosch. Modern Bosch parts are shit quality, made cheap, and have enormous failure rates. They are nowhere near the company they used to be.


With thermostat, if not on gas check it's the correct "foot" type one - these block the bypass when the engine gets to temp. I think DT18F is the part number off the top of my head.

 

 

 

I heard that exact sentiment about Bosch from someone else, just the other day.

I do agree.

It's a real shame as they WERE a quality manufacturer... I guess NTK only now, for the O2's?

 

Awesome tip on the thermostat yes.

Without the foot, (and not on gas) the OHC's run a few increments hotter on the gauge, in my experience.

 

I'd also suggest to pre-test any new thermostat, by suspending it in a pot or kettle, slowly bring it to the boil,

whilst monitoring the opening temp with a thermometer.

Tip -

suspend it by a length of thin wire, held by the closed thermostat spring tension.

Soon as it begins to open, it will drop off the wire, thus indicating the exact opening temperature.

 

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