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Panko

Unleaded XF EFi - won't start

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17 minutes ago, xd4.1efisc said:

Did you use the correct wiring diagram when you changed the pins back.

There is Pre Adr 37 (leaded) and Post Adr 37 (unleaded).

The pin locations for the VAF and some other stuff is different.

 

Yeah I have been looking at schematics all afternoon. 

 

but there may still be some discrepancies. I know about the changes, and my brain is hurting after looking at schematics.  

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Ok small update. 

 

had the car running again today, still like a pig, i decided to unplug the AFM/vane meter to see what happened. for a moment it idled up and ran smoother then cracked the sads and died. even after i plugged it back in it wouldnt recover. 

 

I finally had a crack at running diagnostics on the car, and continually getting error code 21, which is engine coolant temperature. (ECT) 

 

The car refuses to start with this plugged in or not, so is it possible this is the issue? the sensor and/or wiring is in a bad way? 

according to my ford workshop manual, it could cause it to not start, but really? 

 

And if so, why would it start fine (but run crap) with EL computer, and not XF computer? 

 

Why with the EL computer is the engine not under vacuum, but XF computer it is? 

 

Im tearing my hair out, and honestly after owning this car for 14 years (after my dad owned it 16 years) this makes me really sad that the poor old girl is completely immobile :( 

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Just now, deankdx said:

not really helpful advice.. but weren't you considering getting haltech on this in future? 

Yeah i am. 
i have an Elite 1500 sitting here. But was hoping to just return the car back to reliable stock and cruise it for now until the new engine goes in. 
however, there is someone making patch harnesses now for EECIV to Haltech, so its looking more likely ill just go straight to the haltech. 

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Well i don't bloody believe it, I think I have found the issue. 

 

In diagnostics mode I kept getting error code 21, which is ECT out of range. So tonight I disconnected the ECT plug, and bridged the pins in the plug with a jump wire, and the car fired up and ran straight away, and ran smooth. throttle was plenty responsive, etc. It obviously ran extremely rich still because the ECU had no idea what temp the engine was at. 

 

I have ordered a new ECT sensor which ill have tomorrow morning and hopefully have the car running good tomorrow. 

 

This sensor failing over time, might be the reason I have never really gotten the ISC valve working with the EL computer on my conversion. It may also explain why more recently ive had an issue with the EL computer making the engine run super rich, have no power and not being able to idle, when it had been running for about 20-30 minutes. possibly because the failing sensor would start giving a false reading at a certain temperature making the EL ECU freak out. then once it was passed that temp range, come good again...

 

Are EL and XF ECT sensors different? as in different resistance, therefore the computers looking for different resistance to make an accurate reading? Maybe the EL ECU is what killed my sensor if it is in fact looking for a different resistance? 

 

I will post here if the car is running properly again with the new sensor tomorrow.  

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Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL. AU onwards they changed to the cylinder head temp sensor instead of direct coolant temp.

 

Also when trying to start it after flooding are you holding foot to the floor? Doing so switches the injectors OFF to clear accidentally flooding from the cylinders

 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:

Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL

 

awesome thanks. 

 

well in that case, im quite excited that this has hopefully fixed the problem...

 

ill keep you all posted 

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Well the car is running again. 
 

ECT sensor replaced, and first flick of the key it started. 
 

drives really well again in completely stock form, however i now have it losing power with wide open throttle. 
 

im guessing the AFM is adjusted incorrectly. Yes in the process of trying to get it to run, i tried adjusting AFR screw in the top of the vane meter. I just dont know which way it is out. 

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wow! what a shitful idea if you are in the middle of nowhere and sensor fails. 

would you try fit the EL gear again now, assuming that could have been the issue with it?

or stick with the old stuff due to working again

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31 minutes ago, deankdx said:

wow! what a shitful idea if you are in the middle of nowhere and sensor fails. 

would you try fit the EL gear again now, assuming that could have been the issue with it?

or stick with the old stuff due to working again

I know. My dad and I had the same discussion on the phone about how 1 sensor would immobilise the car. 
knowing that, I will be keeping a jump wire in the car so jump the plug again if there is a failure again. 
 

I am going to try the EL ECU again, but first sign of it playing up, I will revert back. 
 

I did have a thought that maybe my ignition timing is out, causing the lack of power. Perhaps not advancing enough 

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