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HF-1 82 Alloy head valvetrain questions

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I bought a rebuilt 76DA block with 82 alloy head, it sat for years, I thought I had oiled it enough before start up but bent 2 pushrods (hard to know until I got an exhaust on it, then started tuning carb, and finally did a compression test). Anyway, here is where I am at:

 

#2 intake seems the hydraulic lifter didn't pump up, I can spin the lifter but not getting it out too easy yet, working on that

#5 intake valve seems to be stuck closed, I am working on freeing it up (soaking now) hoping to not remove the head

 

This engine has like 3000 miles on a crow cam 14613, a bit of a "torq" cam, and crow recommends HT900 lifters, not a problem to source in the US

Crow recommends PR-917 push rods, which are 5/6" ball ends .080 wall, 9.7" long - mine aren't marked but that seems to be what it has (I will double check measurements) - I can get these in the US, and I can even get 5/6" .105 wall, is it worth it or better to just bend a push rod if there is a problem?

 

So I had pulled the valve cover and got the bent pushrods out, and out of 12 rocker arms, 2 are different.  See the picture, I have two of the one on the top or left, and 10 of the one on the bottom or right.  A google search looks like the one on the bottom or right references correctly to a stock crossflow rocker, part #181-1034, that I can get in the US also pretty easy.  I don't know why it has 2 that are different??  

 

Assuming I get the valve freed up, I am thinking of getting all new hydraulic lifters and pushrods, and at least 2 rocker arms.  Perhaps some would recommend just going through the existing lifters cleaning etc as they were already used on this cam and clean up (they are clean) and lube and re-use?

 

I've searched through the forum, I see roller rockers using a kit, but that conversion kit from crane cams seems to be obsolete.  This isn't a high reving engine with this cam (its installed in a 66 Bronco with a 3 speed on the column, 4.11 gears, and 33" tires), I wouldn't mind installing roller rocker arms, but I don't know the latest way to do that and what it does to my pushrods?  Any current info would be appreciated, I'd be up for replacing to roller rocker arms and new pushrods, and cleaning and re-using these lifters, or new lifts.

 

To summarize - my big question is why the 2 odd ball rocker arms, and info on a roller rocker arm conversion (keeping the hydraulic lifters to fit the crow cam)

 

Thank you! --Jim

IMG_8492.jpg

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UPDATE, I started this yesterday, used Kroil first, few hours later some PB Blaster as those are what I had on hand.  Dug through my cabinet last night, found some ATF, let is soak overnight, and this morning she moves.  Still needs some work, sticky, takes seconds to spring back up, but she moved from full up (compared measurements between each intake valve height)

 

So I either run it with new pushrods or figure out the rocker arm situation.

 

Thank you --Jim

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Hi Jim,

 

I think the rockers are just different year/model, that's all.  (Same as 351 Cleveland I reckon) HT900 lifters are usually all thats required for a stock engine, but, my concern would be re-using the lifters. For the cost, I'd pull them all, keep them in order, and inspect carefully for damage. More concerned about the possible damage to the cam.  Maybe drop the oil filter and check inside for metal filings/glitter. 

 

If all looks OK, I would change the pushrods and lifters.  

 

Did you run the shitty old petrol/gas in it.?  Can cause varnish to build up on the valve stems, and hold valves open. 

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Good advice Bear, I'll add that the valve might be stuck from rust due to moisture getting in somehow, in which case the guide could chop out if there is pitting on the valve stem. It could also have a bend in it, causing it to bind at certain lifts.

I have had a guide grab a valve on a fresh engine while on its maiden voyage (Mercedes bus) and it was a fault with whoever the reco'd of the head (guide too tight).

Was one of the odd rockers on the valve that was stuck? Is it possible that they were replaced for the same reason?

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

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I kept at it and #5 is all bouncy bouncy on the spring now.  She was stuck full up which is good I think in regards to being bent.

 

this engine was rebuilt and run about 3000 miles, in a 60s Ford econoline that the guy couldn't keep cool so he took it out.  In my old Bronco she runs cool just fine.  It sat in my garage for 3 years and longer in the garage of the guy I bought it from.  Clean, but I think valve stem moisture/rust is the issue?  I lubed the crank and spun it over with no coil before start up, but I wish I had pulled the valve covers and spun it by hand checking the valvetrain before installing also....

 

Since the valve freed up and bounces on the spring, I am going to go through all the lifters individually and clean and lube and put back in place, I'd like to keep them matched to the cam.  I have a nice milwaukee camera to inspect the cam.  I don't mind buying new lifters at all, just thinking keeping them matched is a good idea??

 

I guess I'll get 3 new rocker arms, so all 12 match, and the 2 that had pushrod issues are a little dinged up where the pushrod contacts them.  New is better than dressing them up.

 

lifters are cheap, I don't mind getting new ones, but I was thinking they are worn to the cam and keeping them? Its not a lot of miles, I dunno?I can see no wear indications on the one lifter I have pulled so far, looks new.   

 

I don't even mind buying roller rocker arms, but then I don't know what I have to change on the pushrods, so maybe keep it simple and stick with stock rocker arms.

 

thank you --Jim

 

 

 

 

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Good news Jim.  I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure.

Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc,

 

Let us know how ya get on. 

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I remember reading something on here about Thunderbird V6 roller rockers once same as cleveland(& big block ford) but 12 in the kit instead of 16, might of been Scorpion 5/16" bolt on...

Crane kit is CR52745-12, I tried this kit on my xflow but had a few guide plates that didn't line up well. Ended up going Yella Terra/Street Terra kit bolted up easy as.

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I remember reading something on here about Thunderbird V6 roller rockers once same as cleveland(& big block ford) but 12 in the kit instead of 16, might of been Scorpion 5/16" bolt on...
Crane kit is CR52745-12, I tried this kit on my xflow but had a few guide plates that didn't line up well. Ended up going Yella Terra/Street Terra kit bolted up easy as.
Umm I think that was me... My brother (XPT Crossy) gave me a set of 12 Scorpions that were meant for his cross-flow turbo build, but he's since moved that on for another project (he does that, lol).

He bought them unused from another former member on here but when I went to bolt them on, the bolts were M8 x 1.25 instead of 5/16” UNC. This had me quite puzzled until I looked up the part number and the only cross-reference was for the 3.8 (Canadian) Essex V6, the T-bird engine as you mentioned.

All I did was get some 5/16" capscrews and they bolted on perfectly, correct pedestal height, correct preload and only needed shimming because my heads were shaved.

The remaining 4 weren't so easily obtained or fitted. I had to order them as individual items from Summit, the only ones available this way were listed for "351C/400/BFF" and when I bolted them down, they had about 0.090" of slop from cup to pushrod. So the supplied pedestals were too long. I machined them in the lathe by about 2.3mm and they bolted down fine.

The weird thing about these individual rocker kits is that they each came with twin mounting channels, as one would perhaps use in a Windsor or FE 1.73 retrofit. So maybe they were simply the wrong ones for that part number? I dunno, but the last 4 rockers are on and working now and I ended up with some spare crap that I likely will never use.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

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