Holley 600

[Free.51 2,717]

Thanks Greg, yeah she's just a 302, what do you mean by exhaust crossover plugged? Also when you say launch the metal plate do you mean get rid of the metal gasket on the manifold or that base plate?.

 

Do i need to keep that metal gasket or just throw it & use the new cardboard one supplied?

 

Looks like ive hit a brick wall atm i cant get those studs out of the manifold so thats a pain

[gerg 10,871]

 

 

 

 

Thanks Greg, yeah she's just a 302, what do you mean by exhaust crossover plugged? Also when you say launch the metal plate do you mean get rid of the metal gasket on the manifold or that base plate?.  

Do i need to keep that metal gasket or just throw it & use the new cardboard one supplied?

 

Looks like ive hit a brick wall atm i cant get those studs out of the manifold so thats a pain

 

 

There's an exhaust passage in each head (number 3 and number 6 from memory) that leads to a port in the inlet manifold which bounces exhaust gases through it. That provides heat under the carby to prevent puddling of fuel in the manifold, even icing up in very cold conditions.

 

This is also used as a feed for the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve that may have been removed from yours, and that metal gasket under that spacer is likely what seals off that EGR feed port, and if your crossover is still open (some plug it like I did, due to the carby getting too hot) then it will likely burn out the paper gasket. Your old spacer has an "ear" that sticks out over the little port (a hole about 10mm dia. on the drivers side of the carby) that seals it off.

 

So I would just keep that metal gasket there if it's already stuck good and sealed well.

 

Removing studs: if you have to reuse them, I would suggest locking 2 nuts together and unscrewing that way. If not reusing them, a big fkoff pair of vice grips or stillsons will be your best bet.

 

EDIT: just realised that you did have your EGR, so if nothing else has been disturbed, your crossover should still be open. So yes, keep the metal gasket.

 

One last thing: removal of your EGR won't give you any more performance, but economy may suffer slightly.

 

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[Free.51 2,717]

Thanks Greg, im not sure about the EGR will have to suss it out,

 

Ive already tried multi grips no good but ill now try the 2 nuts trick, thanks for your help much appreciated 

[gerg 10,871]

The EGR is the funny contraption hanging off the back of your old spacer.

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[Free.51 2,717]

Yes, i wont need to use that again will i? I was just planning to put this new adaptor on & carb & hopefully that's it. I managed to get 1 of the studs off

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[Free.51 2,717]

1 hour ago, gerg said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One last thing: removal of your EGR won't give you any more performance, but economy may suffer slightly.

 

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Cant be any worse than it already is

[gerg 10,871]

Yeah said it plenty of times... Clevos like a drink, no matter what cubes you're running

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[gerg 10,871]

Yes, i wont need to use that again will i? I was just planning to put this new adaptor on & carb & hopefully that's it. I managed to get 1 of the studs off

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Nah but hang on to it... If it still works, someone may want it. They don't make these parts any more.

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[Free.51 2,717]

Cheer Greg, i took the metal gasket off & noticed it had conformed to the shape of the old spacer so i think ill buy a new one if i can also under the metal gasket was another paper gasket all stuffed & the same shape as the metal one so ill have to get 1 of each of these.

[dex 2,065]

1 hour ago, gerg said:

 They don't make these parts any more .
 

Price just went up ,,,

 

 

[Free.51 2,717]

Woooohoooo

[gerg 10,871]

Price just went up ,,,
 
 

Lol... "genuine XR, XT, XW, XY, XA, XB, XC, XD, XE, ESP, GT, GTHO, 351 Cleveland factory 4-barrel"

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[bear351c 10,269]

That adaptor plate is the correct one, has the flange (cant see it, under the gasket in your pic) and the "ear" Gerg was talking about, on the opposite side. If you can plug the EGR stuff off, do that. Should have come with new studs in the packet.?  Lockiing 2 nuts together is the best way of removing the old ones, as stated.

[Free.51 2,717]

Got all the studs out (had to use 3 nuts on some of them) this is where im up to i cleaned the top part of the manifold & i need to know if i need to buy a new metal gasket & paper gasket that are the same shape that was under the original spacer & then put the new paper gasket that was supplied with the holley adaptor plate on top of the metal gasket or should i just put the paper one straight down on the manifold then put the new adaptor plate on?.


I have the old power lead still hooked up to the + on the coil that went to the throttle position sensor on the TQ so im guessing just run a wire to that and then to + on the holley for auto choke as you mentioned Greg.

Also not sure what this wire is for but was on the TQ & runs to the Alternator, not sure if its needed on the holley or not.

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[Free.51 2,717]

5 hours ago, bear351c said:

That adaptor plate is the correct one, has the flange (cant see it, under the gasket in your pic) and the "ear" Gerg was talking about, on the opposite side. If you can plug the EGR stuff off, do that. Should have come with new studs in the packet.?  Lockiing 2 nuts together is the best way of removing the old ones, as stated.

Yes Bear the new adaptor plate came with 4 cap screws to bolt to the manifold & 4 bolts/nuts/washers to bolt the holley down

[gerg 10,871]

Looking at those new pics, that EGR passage looks well and truly choked up, so I don't think you need to worry about that leaking or burning out the paper gasket. If the metal gasket can be cleaned up, I'd use a bit of thinly smeared RTV on it as well as the paper one under it.

You'd be surprised at how well a carby will seal just by itself (it has vacuum sucking it down most of the time) so don't worry too much about the shape of the gasket. The bolts only need a light snugging down.. don't go getting out the torque wrench.

If you ever did want to get that EGR working again, you'd have to dig the shit out of that channel and drill that passage back down to the crossover. I know... You'll be laying awake at 2am worrying about it

I've gone full bush mechanic before and cut my own carby gasket out of a cornflakes box (or was it rice bubbles... I dunno) but that worked for donkeys ears.



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[Free.51 2,717]

Ok cool thanks again Greg, yeah ive heard of the cereal box gaskets before haha but i think i will buy a paper gasket to put under the metal one & use the new paper one that i have to put over the metal one then adaptor plate down the another paper gasket which i have that goes between the plate & carb.

[bear351c 10,269]

The TQ has a solenoid for high idle, when the A/C kicks in. Thats what the wire is for. 

[Free.51 2,717]

Oh that AC has been disconnected since i did the conversion. 

[Free.51 2,717]

Got a new gasket from my mate Ian at Kam autoparts, almost ready to fit now but weather is shit so will have to wait for another day

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[Free.51 2,717]

[Free.51 2,717]

Hey guys got the carb on just waiting for a few more things to arrive. Ive already hooked up the pcv to the base plate & now have just 3 hoses left 2 from the charcoal cannister & 1 from vac advance on the dizzy. There are 4 ports on the carb 1 at the back 1 on the side & 2 at the front underneath. Can i put the 3 hose's where ever they will reach on the ports?

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[gerg 10,871]

Hey guys got the carb on just waiting for a few more things to arrive. Ive already hooked up the pcv to the base plate & now have just 3 hoses left 2 from the charcoal cannister & 1 from vac advance on the dizzy. There are 4 ports on the carb 1 at the back 1 on the side & 2 at the front underneath. Can i put the 3 hose's where ever they will reach on the ports?

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The carb should come with instructions showing which port does what. I know the one up on the drivers side is for vac advance, as the port goes just above the throttle blade when at idle. When the blade opens slightly, the port is now below the throttle blade and supplies vacuum to the dizzy.

The others are all for vacuum accessories that can just be plugged. If you have everything else already running off the manifold tees, these ports are not needed. Holley just puts them there as some manifolds aren't drilled for all that bullshit and they need to allow for that.

The only full-time vac supply you should need is for PCV, brake booster and cabin heater/vent controls.

Carbon canister should just vent to the air filter or somewhere near the opening of the carby. Some emissions Holleys have an extra fitting out the top of the bowls to also connect to vac, but when running these vent the canister plus the bowls down through the carby. Yours probably doesn't have that though.

Don't hook the cannister up to vacuum, you'll get the engine sucking excessive fuel vapours from the tank (messing up your mixture) and sometimes even raw fuel if it happens to slosh up into the vent lines on top of the tank. Don't ask how I found this out.

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[Free.51 2,717]

Thanks for tips Greg, so now i only need to figure out where to put these 2 hoses off the the cannister, originally they were on  the TQ so i dunno where to put them cos the holley air filter assembly i have doesn't have ports for hoses.

 

Would i be able to maybe put them on a T piece the hook them up to one of the trees on either the rear of the manifold or on the thermostat housing?

[Free.51 2,717]

This is what it says about the ports on the carb, i now know rear is for pcv but have left it blocked off cos im using the port on the adaptor plate & i now know the one on the side is for vac advance (cheers Greg), just not sure what should do about the 2 cannister hoses

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