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Todd

Removing sump 351 clevo

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Hi,I have a screwed water pump bottom thread on a 351 Cleveland xy and timing cover plate looks dodgy

anyway have a few questions best way to deal with this.Q1 it’s it possible to drop sump without 

lifting engine out I have standard sump and have 45/50mm clearance to x member will the sump baffle clear if sway bar removed pulling sump forward and down.

Q2 when sump removed is the timing cover plate straight forward to fit around the crank

keyway area.

Q3 Or do I fix dodgy water pump thread to next size up on timing plate 

 

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If just doing timing cover, you won't have to completely remove the sump. You'll only have to drop it far enough to clear the half-moon seal on the end of the timing cover to sump, which youvll easily clear just by pulling all the sump bolts and letting it rest on the crossmember. You can even keep the oil in it till you're done (to flush out any crap that falls in). I did my camshaft(s) like this.

 

In my XE, I wasn't dropping the sump to remove the timing cover, just changing the oil pump. For future reference, it might be handy for yourself or anyone else to know how to pull the sump in-chassis. I pretty much did as you've described but had to undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine as far as I could. I threw a block of timber between the mount and the chassis bracket on each side to support the engine and be free of the jack on the sump or front pulley, both of which you'll have to pull off in your case. Then the sump came off no probs (with swaybar dropped but not removed from links).

 

As for repairing the timing cover, you really need to remove it to get a good repair on it. I would drill out the old bolt hole, and install either a nutsert (ie: riv-nut) or spot-weld a standard nut to the back of the cover for the bolt to thread into. Alternately, you could just nut-and-bolt the water pump to the timing cover and install both together, only problem with that is if you ever do another water pump, it's a timing cover off again job, otherwise it will just spin or fall off into the sump.

 

You will have to remove the balancer to get the cover off. This requires a puller tool. Once off, the cover will pry off pretty easily. Going back on, the sump goes on last to ensure that the half-moon seal doesn't pop off as you're tightening the cover on. A bit of sealer should go on each end between the pan rail gasket and the half moon.

 

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Yup, like that....^ ^ ^
 
Must remove bolts from engine mounts, and raise engine a but to get sump out, as Gerg said. 
Oops yeah forgot that one Bear, the top brackets that bolt the mount to the block sometimes overlap the sump rails and need to be loosened to get the sump down.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

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