Jump to content
Boingk

Boingk's F250 4x4

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

Yes i put that cam in my 400 its good guys beefy idle and street manners with nice powerband to 5000 odd

 

Ah good stuff mate, glad its done well for you. I certainly wouldn't be going back to it if I wasn't impressed. I remember thinking at the time it was a pretty decent all rounder; sounds good, check. Drives well, check. Good performance lift over stock, check.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ah good stuff mate, glad its done well for you. I certainly wouldn't be going back to it if I wasn't impressed. I remember thinking at the time it was a pretty decent all rounder; sounds good, check. Drives well, check. Good performance lift over stock, check.
I bought the kit from usa e bay comes with cam lifters and springs to suit all for about 300 bux

Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The scallops on the heads are not 100% idiot proof, there were always anomalies in the 70's. "Boss" heads had screw in studs, RPO 83's and all such unicorns........  Not all orange rocker covers denote 302, not all XA GT's had black outs, not all XBGT's had colour coded bumpers....etc , etc....

 

Only true way is (unfortunately) to rip the heads off, measure the valves and combustion chambers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/23/2020 at 7:55 AM, gerg said:

Factory chassis and engine numbers were often hand-stamped, so look dodgy even though they're legit. They only have to be legible when new, they don't care about 40 years down the track.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 

Yep, my Louisville chassis number looks similar only they are on the LHS rails top flange. Kenworth's are the same from that era.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah also cab has hole for fuel filler in the LHR for behind seat fuel tank that was 73/74, 75 went to external fuel tank, think most High boys I've seen where 300 6cyl from factory whats the ID plate codes? my bro has a 302c we pulled down & found it that had open chamber heads, as did my mates XD fairmont wagon, previous owner said it was bit slow yeah with 7.8:1 comp we could see why.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, bear351c said:

The scallops on the heads are not 100% idiot proof <snipp> Only true way is (unfortunately) to rip the heads off, measure the valves and combustion chambers.

 

All good mate, it's gonna happen sooner or later. Can't port them on the car very easily now, can I?

 

8 hours ago, FORD_MAN said:

Yeah also cab has hole for fuel filler in the LHR for behind seat fuel tank <snip> whats the ID plate codes? 

 

Yeah could be legit, who knows? The ID plate is long gone. 

 

2 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

An apocalypse Clevo!

Just needs a part time supercharger - Mad Max style? 🤔

 

Nah, full time. If I did it'd be a centrifugal style.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alrighty, got her running a bit better. Still no fuel tank but everything is sorted more or less. Radiator and thermostat are good, charging system is up to spec and even the power steering works. 

 

WTF??? Yeah things work, I'm surprised!

 

The hydraulic clutch looks pretty shot so will go a new master and slave, probably new line as well. Reminds me of my last Effie, it had the same drama. It's only $100 for the new master, slave and line though so thats the good news.

 

Meantime I've chopped rust out of the drivers floor, neatened the hole up to the size of an A4 page, and will try and stitch some new metal back in there this afternoon.

 

And yes she'll be getting 35" tyres as these things look munted (IMHO) with anything less than that.

 

 - boingk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! 35s will look tits

On the standard rims, or going aftermarket? There are good sizes in 17" for 4x4s. You will have to watch the GVM vs max load on the wheels and tyres though. Being an F250, you may be up around 4.5 tonnes all done, and 3 tonnes on the back axle.

Is the clutch master and slave the same as a Falcon? I found the 5/8" master a bit small and have worn out 2 of them already in only a few years. Went to a 3/4" trailer type and it's a bit heavy on the pedal but these things are readily available (on a Sunday, broken down on the Gt Western hwy Springwood) as they're a generic design.

I will eventually go with a 7/8" or 15/16" slave (up from the standard 3/4”) when I get my arse into gear. Going up in size at each end by the same ratio will drop the line pressure and thus wear and tear in the system. I'm done with the stock (IBS) replacements failing.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers mate! Yeah I was reading up that 37's rub at full lock on an unmodified truck, so 35's it is. It's running 8.25-16's up front at the moment which works out about 33, and I definitely wouldn't want to go smaller.

 

I'll go aftermarket steel wheels. I'm talking to the local place about it, he's getting into his catalouge so should come back with something for me next week.

 

The clutch master and slave I can't remember honestly. I'll look up my ebay purchase from a few years ago and see what I got. From memory it was fairly generic Protex stuff. I made it work with trailer hydraulic line to join them, and used a drilled fishing sinker to make up the hydraulic olive needed for the master connection.

 

Meantime here's my dodgy floor replacement. I'm not a good welder, but managed to make this thing solid. Not pretty, but solid.

 

ACtC-3dqytRGaHnfMWfGwwIPz7yyRXWaXAGhzTrI

 

 - boingk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Parts are turning up so time to have the engine apart. Its sludge city in there.

 

On the upside I got the carby off and its in good condition. Not much play in anything and certainly ran quite well. I will likely refurbish it and sell it on, if anyone is keen let me know.

 

The Holley I was going to use to start with I fitted to the 250 crossflow I sold as part of the deal... so I'm rebuilding another. All good so far, fingers crossed.

 

Heads off in the morning, I'll see whether she is a 302 or a 351.

 

ACtC-3fHDoznUbjXOv31z_fp5KCRxSO5g7kK3LI-

 

ACtC-3f52J4dMV1O6LgmNECNoZbD5b8JspW45yvL

 

ACtC-3dkOj438AWLR3jFCbtiWQCAtkZ-COG3TdAZ

 

ACtC-3dBs1iyMallzsNcGJpCQ10nos1B-mCouPka

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good news, I got some 302C heads. Nothing flash, they need a hot tanking and resurfacing but were cheap enough to warrant it.

 

Bad news too, I've got one stuck head on the block as I rounded a rocker retaining bolt. Damn thing feels like its made of cheese, I'll have to cut up the rocker to get at the head bolt as easy outs and welding a stud to the rounded bolt haven't worked.

 

ACtC-3f_wI8MZZpB_Keq4kabQNnV0Ym7lZwBGNrb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Good news, I got some 302C heads. Nothing flash, they need a hot tanking and resurfacing but were cheap enough to warrant it.
 
Bad news too, I've got one stuck head on the block as I rounded a rocker retaining bolt. Damn thing feels like its made of cheese, I'll have to cut up the rocker to get at the head bolt as easy outs and welding a stud to the rounded bolt haven't worked.
 
ACtC-3f_wI8MZZpB_Keq4kabQNnV0Ym7lZwBGNrbQBgFS8Od6Knm5qTFXP6-3vTWqzufG8Mj1WWG8ChEAGBZcHKx-n9a8s2VlX-wVNvteUrAITe-Uh4nWv11LM5xQBEMY2UybiPWcOlRK3NOwH-vESg3pcm6=w975-h732-no?authuser=0
Probably had a Bunnings bolt in there just to get it going.

Good score on the 302 heads. There must have been a lot of 302s made because there are quite a few heads (and engines) still around... despite a lot of them being sent to the States in the past due to them being closed chamber and 2Vs (never made them there).

You going to have a bit of a go porting them? These Aussie 2Vs have lots of room for improvement, at least going off what I've experienced with mine. The bowls and throats were terrible.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, gerg said:

Probably had a Bunnings bolt in there just to get it going.

Good score on the 302 heads. There must have been a lot of 302s made because there are quite a few heads (and engines) still around... despite a lot of them being sent to the States in the past due to them being closed chamber and 2Vs (never made them there).

You going to have a bit of a go porting them? These Aussie 2Vs have lots of room for improvement, at least going off what I've experienced with mine. The bowls and throats were terrible.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 

 

Yeah I'm always happy to have a go at porting. I've got the carbide bit there so may as well. I will probably do some research of the "do's and don'ts" and then go through the lot but if its anything like the GT40P's I did for the Windsor it'll be fairly straighforward - clean up the flash, smooth out where the casting meets the machining and go from there. I won't be expecting miracles but even a small gain over stock would be nice.

 

More good news by the way. Looks like this thing is a stock bore 351. Heads seem fresh, too.

 

ACtC-3ePmerG6Rskqh2jlo1SYvhO9hpOR5GmIzqO

 

ACtC-3ersNsDDgN4Dpyj8zgDx1bLdTK6968Kqg47

 

ACtC-3dySzhXIoJ9bNRlGqShFtxpAQmzyy0hW2Wb

 

We're on a winner so far!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice one!

I'd be worried if it was an open chamber 302... That would've been a dog!

Are you going with the old pistons or splashing out on new ones? I would aim for zero deck to take advantage of the closed chamber.

I did a bit of a cleanup on my 2Vs, I think it's in my gergwagon thread. A few pics for reference anyway. Just smoothed the bowl and throat transition, knocked a bit off the short turn and bevelled and put a contour on the guides. Nothing drastic and definitely not pretty, but it surely can't have hurt at all.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers gents!

 

I'll probably stick with the old pistons if it measures up okay. Plan at this stage is to give it a re-ring and bearing job plus new oil pump while I put a decent clutch behind her. If I can get the lifter bushings I mentioned earlier to fix the oiling issues then I'll be pretty happy as well.

 

I'll probably stay away from absolute zero-deck (depending on how it emasures up) as the heads will need machining and I'm trying to stay under 11:1 compression. From memory my last 351 with 302 heads measured up about 10.7:1 and was pretty happy.

 

gerg, I'll check out your thread for sure mate, thanks for the tip.

 

 - boingk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, bear351c said:

Check your compression ratio with zero deck, as you may have to run her on Premium, not cheap these days.

 

Yeah she'll be a 95-octane tune at minimum I think. I don't mind that, but want to stay away from 98 for sure. My last combo of this type was happy using 95 so that's a plus.

 

More news - the machinist likes the heads and has seen they already have brass valve guides inserted. The valves themselves look like they have been over-worked and are sharp at the edges so I will pull a set from another pair of heads.

 

I'm weighing up whether or not to get hardened exhaust seats - is it worth it for occasional use? I have plenty of valve saver so that's not an issue. 

 

 - boingk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Yeah she'll be a 95-octane tune at minimum I think. I don't mind that, but want to stay away from 98 for sure. My last combo of this type was happy using 95 so that's a plus.
 
More news - the machinist likes the heads and has seen they already have brass valve guides inserted. The valves themselves look like they have been over-worked and are sharp at the edges so I will pull a set from another pair of heads.
 
I'm weighing up whether or not to get hardened exhaust seats - is it worth it for occasional use? I have plenty of valve saver so that's not an issue. 
 
 - boingk
Has the machinist looked at the seats? I was expecting mine to need hardened seats only to find that they were done already when I was having them tanked and reco'd. That was a big cost that I was happy to not have to cover.

If they're not hardened, no big deal. I reckon if you're not going to flog the arse out of this truck, just stick with the valve saver on the stock iron heads. Hardened seats take a long time to pay themselves off if you're not doing the km.

That's a shame about the valves. See if you can score some one-piece valves vs the 2-piece stock ones. Those are notorious for ripping valve heads off with anything more than stock spring pressure and rpm.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, gerg said:

That's a shame about the valves. See if you can score some one-piece valves vs the 2-piece stock ones.

 

I've got a few 351C 2V heads lying around now so will probably use those valves if they measure up properly. I've used stock valves before with this camshaft and drove it around just fine for ages. Its a gentle profile camshaft, I think its quoted as 292 degrees duration with 219@50 and 262@006 for a max lift of 505.

 

I didn't ask the machinist about the seats, but if they aren't done I don't think I'll bother. I've worked out before that Flashlube only adds about 2c to the cost of fuel per litre, so if I'm using 15L/100km then thats 0.3c per kilometer in Flashlube. To  even at a cheap cost of $250 for the seats I'd need to do over 83 thousand kilometers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, gerg said:

$250 is very cheap for seats. I would expect more like $400-$500 but that might be Sydney prices.

 

Just rang him. He said it was 30 bucks a seat, so 8x seats is $240. Geez. Maybe I should just do it and then not have to worry about if I decide to blow it or something later on down the line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×